1974 Ford Cummins Crew cab - Page 25

ChaseTruck754 · #**361** (**permalink**) 07-31-2009, 02:07 AM

My ranger will take that long - IF I ever finish it. The hot rod is cutting in line though - so it shouldn't take that long

ChaseTruck754 · #**362** (**permalink**) 07-31-2009, 02:30 AM

Did a bunch of welding tonight. Not much else though - I was distracted by my buddy working on a motorcycle - so I spent a bunch of time flappin my jaw over there

Anyways - the boss is outta town tomorrow and my work load seems light so I'm gonna buy some materials and another set of transfer punches (to make a "stubby" set to fit in smaller places) and then get a bit more work done before heading to my dad's for the weekend.

Aeroshade · #**363** (**permalink**) 07-31-2009, 09:11 AM

Are you going to bolt that hitch in or weld it?

ChaseTruck754 · #**364** (**permalink**) 07-31-2009, 12:10 PM

Bolt.

I'm VERY anti welding crap on. I've had to cut off too many previous owner hack jobs

Anybody can just quickly pull a MIG trigger and zap something on. My stuff is thought out, and bolts on - typically through stock bolt/rivet holes (although many are opened up for larger bolts)

Plus I know that plans sometimes change, and I oftend get better ideas on how I should have done something a little while AFTER I am done with the 1st build.

Im my opinion bolt on work is a step above and sets a truck apart. It takes longer to think out and build, and it allows the truck to be broken down easier for prep., repair, etc.

Aeroshade · #**365** (**permalink**) 07-31-2009, 02:13 PM

LOL I was just asking because I hate seeing stuff like that welded on to. Why weaken your frame? The right bolts can withstand tons of force!! Most people don't see it that way, they think welding it on is the ONLY way for it to be strong.

ChaseTruck754 · #**366** (**permalink**) 07-31-2009, 02:17 PM

Based on many of the welds I've seen - bolts are way stronger

Depending on the design bolt on applications can be just as strong, if not stronger than welded on

Aeroshade · #**367** (**permalink**) 07-31-2009, 02:28 PM

http://dodgeram.org/tech/specs/bolts..._strength.html

Yea one Grade 5, 1/2-13 bolt can withstand 17000lb before breaking. That is a lot of force to generate to break them. And that is only grade 5!!

Aeroshade · #**368** (**permalink**) 07-31-2009, 02:33 PM

I know that is max lb. but it will give people an idea of how strong grade 5 bolts are.

crazyredneckanyhow · #**369** (**permalink**) 08-01-2009, 12:37 PM

Hey steve i need a couple measurements if possiible. Can you measure from the centerline of the rad cradle mount hole to the centerline of your motor mounts. And also from the top of the frame to the bolthole in the center of the motor mount. I nee to know how far back and how high the motor is gonna set.

ChaseTruck754 · #**370** (**permalink**) 08-01-2009, 04:37 PM

I'm in my dad's about an hour and a half south of home right now so it won't be til monday at the soonest.

Catch me on IM this coming week and remind me and I'll measure a bit when I get back to the shop.

It's gonna be difficult though as my motor is NOT in the truck right now, my motor mounts are different from side to side (94-98 mounts are like that stock) and my radiator is a custom mount one - plus the core support isn't on the truck yet...

crazyredneckanyhow · #**371** (**permalink**) 08-01-2009, 06:29 PM

Yeah but you can measure centerline or there close to in the hole on the frame for the core support. If you can get say the measurements on the drivers side is good enough.

ChaseTruck754 · #**372** (**permalink**) 08-05-2009, 02:44 PM

Dave - you got a PM with some measurements.

Finally got back in the shop and back to work although I was drilling holes through 1.25" solid again - so it was slow going as usual.

I got a couple of the 6 mounting holes (stock rivet holes opened up for a 1/2" bolt) drilled, and I got the templates for the actual leaf mounts worked out.

I've got a meeting tonight and I am also helping a friend move this week and weekend so probably not going to get a ton done but I am inching closer to wrapping this up

1st mounting holes done - and marking to drill more. I'm using 3 of the 5 stock holes per side

Look ma - no clamps - or jack stands, milk crate, etc...

bendog · #**373** (**permalink**) 08-06-2009, 12:30 AM

Lookin good, as always.
I've been chasing around for a pitman arm to fit my sag box, just looked at all your pics (I do that freqently) and the one you have on your steering box looks right. What year truck did that pitman arm come off of? How long center to center? Thanks.

I wound up grinding my hydroboost pushrod down and cutting threads for a heim joint. If I had just added spacers to it, it would have hit the air intake for the engine, not sure if you've checked yet.

ChaseTruck754 · #**374** (**permalink**) 08-06-2009, 03:18 AM

my steering box came out of the 91 2wd dodge d250 motor donor. I can measure center to center tomorrow.

thanks for the head's up on the hydroboost. I THINK it will clear but it's been long enough since I've had the motor in that I can't remember for sure. I was plannin on keeping the superduty master cyl. on there (going to rear disks), and I think it is slightly longer. I will look at that tomorrow as well.

Any other updates on your truck?

bendog · #**375** (**permalink**) 08-06-2009, 08:05 PM

Long story short, steering.
You may or may not have noticed the lack of a front crossmember. I'm going to get the steering worked out before I worry too much about it. If my plan comes together it should be pretty slick when its done (the c-member).
So I got all new steering linkage for an 89 F-350 (inverted T), and took back the drag link because it was too long, gonna have to have one made. Got a local guy willing to make it for me. 1 1/4" DOM reverse threaded one end, Chebby 1 ton joints. It needs to be 33 1/4" long, center of ball joint to center of ball joint. Then I spent the better part of two days hunting for a pitman arm, thats the right length, and not too much drop, found one on a Caddy, if its the right length, I'm gonna order a pitman like you have (still need a reamer for the Chebby joints). But now I have enough parts to mock up the steering box mount.

Whew, didnt plan on that much typing.