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Is F-150 Still King?
 
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  #256 (permalink)  
Old 05-19-2009, 02:50 PM
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ChaseTruck754 ChaseTruck754 is offline
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In all reality $3500 is VERY good for all I bought. It includes that supercab for $850 and a pair of NEW fox bypass shocks that go for $1200 or so EACH if bought from Fox. Everything I got was super cheap and could be sold for much more if I end up not needing it. But of course I will run it all!!!!

Dakota pedals use the same or similar mount to those on rams. They use the same master and slave cyls. from what I hear, so the aluminum pedal mount off a Dakota can be used.

Here is the set of Ram pedals I bought. From what I have read the aluminum structure is the same for auto or man. trans. My plan was to mount this and make or buy pedals. I hope to find someone with a manual trans who can measure the clutch pedal from the pivot point to the master attachment point so I can get the throw right. These pedals haven't gotten here yet, so I can't see how well they will "bolt in" to the Ford.

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  #257 (permalink)  
Old 05-19-2009, 03:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChaseTruck754 View Post
I hope to find someone with a manual trans who can measure the clutch pedal from the pivot point to the master attachment point so I can get the throw right. These pedals haven't gotten here yet, so I can't see how well they will "bolt in" to the Ford.

I think someone posted that info in one of my truck threads.... I will have to go look, but for some reason it seams that I remember 2.250" from pivot. Consequently this is right about where mine will end up after laying it all out on paper.

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  #258 (permalink)  
Old 05-21-2009, 06:11 PM
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ChaseTruck754 ChaseTruck754 is offline
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No work on Tuesday since a buddy stopped by and wanted to go to dinner with Suzy and I. I was ll set/excited to get some work done and was bummed when I didn't.

I think last night made up for it though. I had a pretty productive night

I got the rest of that steering box area frame plate welded in. Now I just gotta weld the bosses and see about adding 1 more plate to the bottom of the thing for added strength.

Before I go on I need to rant for a bit. This rant is more caused by my analness than anything but oh well. I wish I could deal with having MIG welds on my truck. I don't like MIG welds though (probably because I'm not great at it) and prefer the cleanliness and looks of TIG welds.

Unfortunately when lying on your back under the truck or welding over some factory welds TIG gets annoying.

Welding this (bottom sections of that frame box) really reminded me of that last night. Even with my "poor man's creeper" (pics below) my neck and arms were sore from positioning for the weld.


my creeper for welding. It's comfy and serves more than 1 purpose!



After welding that and getting sore I decided to do some platework.

Nesting the pieces to be cut


1st one cut and welded in


2nd plate - which is where my bitching about TIG welds continues.

It's hard to tell from the pic - but the lower bead where this attaches to the frame looks "normal". Not good - but OK for a TIG bead. I decided I wanted to try and weld over the factory welds to clean up the looks a bit. BAD choice. Well yes and no... I did find that the factory beads have little to NO penetration, so I'm glad I welded over them. BUT they also had some nasty slag and crap in them because they made my weld pop, hiss and turn into the the MESS you see now

Oh well. I moved on and painted.


Starting and test fitting the other side.


That's where I left off.

Suzy has a final today so I'm free for a bit in the shop tonight - more pics tomorrow!
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1989 Ford Ranger= Never gonna be done...
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  #259 (permalink)  
Old 05-21-2009, 10:25 PM
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Your welds are so pretty...makes me jealous...I don't weld enough with my mig...so half the time I get what I call "BOOGER WELDS"...NOT pretty...and DEFINITELY not safe for a frame...Takes me a bit of practicing before I will do it...I get rusty with it from lack of use...LOL....I'm good once I get the welder dialed in to what I am welding....Then I can get some fairly good ones!!! Now where near as pretty as TIG tho.
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1979 F-350 4x4 Dana 60's Front And Rear
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1978 F-250 4x4 Crew Cab Waiting For A Cummins
1976 F-250 Highboy Tow Truck
1979 F-150 4x4 Shorty
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  #260 (permalink)  
Old 05-21-2009, 11:26 PM
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The bigest problem with tig is filth, things need to be clean for tig.

Where as with a flux core mig it is not such and issue, but not as pretty as tig.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
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  #261 (permalink)  
Old 05-22-2009, 12:59 AM
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What did the factory use for a welder on these old beasts?? Arc?? Mig?? Some of the welds look pretty good..but I see a lot of slag as well.
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1979 F-350 4x4 Dana 60's Front And Rear
1978 F-250 Supercab 4x4 w/Dana 60's front and rear
1978 F-250 4x4 Crew Cab Waiting For A Cummins
1976 F-250 Highboy Tow Truck
1979 F-150 4x4 Shorty
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  #262 (permalink)  
Old 05-22-2009, 01:05 AM
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yes - cleanliness is key to TIG. It's AMAIZING how much a bead can change if things are clean.

As for the factory welds - they look to be Arc/Stick. Lots of slag.


While MIG and flux core are similar yet different, both handle dirty metal and large gaps better than TIG. Flux core will weld over damn near anything, whereas MIG likes things slightly cleaner - yet no where near TIG standards. I'm not a fan of MIG beads (in general - I've got a buddy that is so good it looks like TIG!), but flux core drops into an entirely unacceptable level

And yes - since I am sitting here and responding that means no work in the shop tonight. Mom and dad wanted to get the family together for dinner and I'm always game for free food!
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1938 Ford Pickup = hot rod
1970 Ford F250
long bed & 1974 Ford F100 Supercab - 2wds
1974 Ford F250 4x4 Crew cab
thread in "motor swap" forum
1989 Ford Ranger= Never gonna be done...
1972 Alfa Romeo GTV & 1999 Toyota Tacoma 4wd = DD
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  #263 (permalink)  
Old 05-22-2009, 01:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fordtrucknut View Post
Your welds are so pretty...makes me jealous...
Glad you think so. In all honesty I'm disappointed with half of them recently. Only a few look "ok" - meaning no undercut, HAZ not too big (too much heat), etc.
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1938 Ford Pickup = hot rod
1970 Ford F250
long bed & 1974 Ford F100 Supercab - 2wds
1974 Ford F250 4x4 Crew cab
thread in "motor swap" forum
1989 Ford Ranger= Never gonna be done...
1972 Alfa Romeo GTV & 1999 Toyota Tacoma 4wd = DD
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  #264 (permalink)  
Old 05-22-2009, 01:18 AM
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Does that mean it wasn't clean enough?? Or the wind was causing problems as to why they didn't turn out as good as you wanted??
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1978 F-250 4x4 Crew Cab Waiting For A Cummins
1976 F-250 Highboy Tow Truck
1979 F-150 4x4 Shorty
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  #265 (permalink)  
Old 05-22-2009, 01:20 AM
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not clean enough. There was impurities not only in the factory weld, but it seems the frame as well. Good enough for me for now though. I am just taking more and more time cleaning the stuff before I weld on it. The parts where it is all new metal the welds come out fine
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1938 Ford Pickup = hot rod
1970 Ford F250
long bed & 1974 Ford F100 Supercab - 2wds
1974 Ford F250 4x4 Crew cab
thread in "motor swap" forum
1989 Ford Ranger= Never gonna be done...
1972 Alfa Romeo GTV & 1999 Toyota Tacoma 4wd = DD
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  #266 (permalink)  
Old 05-22-2009, 01:29 AM
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New Metal is a lot more fun to weld isn't it!!!...I love welding...Just get way out of practice...I never do it enough....I still have the wheels spinning on beds and axles and driving and shipping and....LOL
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1978 F-250 Supercab 4x4 w/Dana 60's front and rear
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  #267 (permalink)  
Old 05-22-2009, 01:32 AM
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Yeah - good thing I have so many projects and friends who need things made - I get LOTS of practice

I'm working on your pics for the beds. A friend of mine located them for me and they are close to him - so I'm letting him deal with that for now. I'll keep you posted as I get any info.
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long bed & 1974 Ford F100 Supercab - 2wds
1974 Ford F250 4x4 Crew cab
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1989 Ford Ranger= Never gonna be done...
1972 Alfa Romeo GTV & 1999 Toyota Tacoma 4wd = DD
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  #268 (permalink)  
Old 05-22-2009, 01:46 AM
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Sweet Deal...I got the Pickup Bed Trailer hooked to the F-150 today....So I'm ready for pick up tomorrow!!!
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1978 F-250 Supercab 4x4 w/Dana 60's front and rear
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1979 F-150 4x4 Shorty
Way Too Many Trucks to list 29 Total So Far!!
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  #269 (permalink)  
Old 05-22-2009, 02:12 AM
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Festus Hagen Festus Hagen is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChaseTruck754 View Post
yes - cleanliness is key to TIG. It's AMAIZING how much a bead can change if things are clean.
Amen!
That is the number one mistake beginners make with Aluminum, they don't get it properly cleaned.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChaseTruck754 View Post
As for the factory welds - they look to be Arc/Stick. Lots of slag.
From the mess I would have to say flux core, They are a Robotic GMAW process (wire feed). Flux core stands up to robotic movement better than shielded.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChaseTruck754 View Post
While MIG and flux core are similar yet different, both handle dirty metal and large gaps better than TIG. Flux core will weld over damn near anything, whereas MIG likes things slightly cleaner - yet no where near TIG standards. I'm not a fan of MIG beads (in general - I've got a buddy that is so good it looks like TIG!), but flux core drops into an entirely unacceptable level
I agree, to a point, flux core can look good if done right, yes it splatters more but they they'll pop off fairly easy, it's just a hassle. It can look just as good as a shielded weld.

There is nothing like stick or flux core out in the open air though.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
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  #270 (permalink)  
Old 05-22-2009, 02:22 AM
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ChaseTruck754 ChaseTruck754 is offline
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Originally Posted by Festus Hagen View Post
There is nothing like stick or flux core out in the open air though.
Yeah - but that's why they invented shielding gasses - because no one wnats their welds to look like that
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1938 Ford Pickup = hot rod
1970 Ford F250
long bed & 1974 Ford F100 Supercab - 2wds
1974 Ford F250 4x4 Crew cab
thread in "motor swap" forum
1989 Ford Ranger= Never gonna be done...
1972 Alfa Romeo GTV & 1999 Toyota Tacoma 4wd = DD
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