1974 Ford Cummins Crew cab - Page 15

BradyCouchman · #**211** (**permalink**) 04-30-2009, 01:52 PM

you are going to use the push pull steering??? why not cross over?

ChaseTruck754 · #**212** (**permalink**) 04-30-2009, 02:09 PM

when the d60 goes in it will get cross over. This is just temporary. Get the diesel in and driving you know.

After that the d60, hydroboost, rear end, etc. can all be weekend type projects - while the truck remains running.

ChaseTruck754 · #**213** (**permalink**) 05-03-2009, 02:42 AM

"Be smarter than the object you are dealing with."
This concepts seems simple in pricipal, yet sometime hard for me to pull off for some reason...
My buddy dragged me to a concert last night to see his favorite band. They didn't go on until 12:30 and it was up in Long Beach so we didn't get back until after 3 AM.
Needless to say I was a bit worthless today!
After a wasted weekend day (I don't get enough free time for this as it is - loosing a weekend day for NOTHING kills me!) I got a TINY bit of work done tonight.
I got to the shop about 5 PM and instead of getting to work I sat my overtired, lazy butt on the couch to watch a movie with Suzy. Luckily a buddy came over and needed something welded so that at least got me off the couch.
I welded the thing for him and convinced him to help me start to press out that @%$&ing bolt that was stuck in my leaf spring bushing from earlier on in the thread.
Of course that bolt couldn't just cooperate - it had to fight the whole damned way out!
I got the leaf in the press with a socket under it and I started to move that bolt out. I was so happy that I pressed a bit too much and pressed the thing into the socket... After fighting it for a bit I realized there was no easy way to get the socket off. I couldn't press the bolt out of the socket, or the rest of the bolt out of the leaf with how it was stuck. Realizing I had no way out I had to cut the thing (bolt in the socket) off

With minimal damage to my socket (I lost 1/32" or so in length of the deep socket in the process

) I got the damned thing off.
I now had 1/2 the bolt stuck in the socket and the other half stuck in the leaf. I started trying to find a way to press that piece out of the socket. After a bit of messing with it I got another deep socket to work and pressed the bolt into that.
It was then time to go back to the leafs and get the remainder of the bolt that was STILL in the damned bushing out. Luckily this piece was short enough to press into the original, now 1/32" shorter, deep socket without getting stuck.
So LOOOONG story short I finally got that stupid $%#@ing bolt of of my stupid &%$#ing leaf springs and tomorrow I can start with cycling the suspension to look for clearance issues and then get on with my build

BradyCouchman · #**214** (**permalink**) 05-03-2009, 02:41 PM

glad you got the bolt out of the socket, i still think you should have taken back and told them that a buddy gave it back to you like that...

ChaseTruck754 · #**215** (**permalink**) 05-03-2009, 03:36 PM

it would have been funny, but I'm sure it would have been a waste of a trip as they would not have taken it back that way.

Now at least I can use my socket still and I don't have waste the trip to sears.

Did that radiator fan shroud work for you?

BradyCouchman · #**216** (**permalink**) 05-03-2009, 03:58 PM

oh i havent even looked yet, i painted the pan but i have to sand it down and repaint part of it....

ChaseTruck754 · #**217** (**permalink**) 05-04-2009, 02:01 AM

semi worthless day again unfortunately. I REALLY need to realize I am too old for 3-4 AM concert nights. They make me worthless all damned weekend long

So after napping a bit today I finally go my butt into gear and got to work on this thing.
I cycled the front suspension and it told me a few things...
1) I need to lower my bump stops. In order for me to hit the rubber stops the sprigs would have to be in one heck of a negative arch.
2) at full bump and full lock my 35's will rub on the steering box.
3) at ride height and full lock my 35's will clear the steering box
4) at ride height BEFORE full lock my 35's will hit the pitman arm with the d44 and push/pull steering setup.

Seeing all this was good. I now know what I am dealing with and am able to move forward.

I really should just throw a d60 in this thing now and avoid doing any work to set up the steering for this D44, but that all depends on if I find one soon enough...

Here's some pics from this evening.

Cycling the suspension. I put the main leaf in the truck and used a set of wood blocks to make up for the height of the missing leafs. In this pic I show it at "full bump". Although there is 3-4" of clearance between the top of the leaf and the bottom of the rubber bump stop, the leaf is a little beyond "flat". I need to lower my bumpstops...

This is the front view and same thing as above - it was just supposed to show the distance between the bump stop and top of leaf, but apparently the pitman arm decided to get in the way

Tire hits the pitman arm before current "full lock" on the steering. I'll just have to adjust the steering stop on the driver side for the time being

This was supposed to show that the tires just clear the steering box at current "full lock" at ride height. They will hit a "full bump" though.

I turned down the boss' for when I box the frame

Drilled out the dodge frame for the boss material. It's nice and tight and almost has to be pressed in

got that sucker almost all welded. Tomorrow I should be able to start boxing everything in

BradyCouchman · #**218** (**permalink**) 05-04-2009, 11:07 AM

that doesnt look like you will be able to turn very tight to the right...

ChaseTruck754 · #**219** (**permalink**) 05-04-2009, 07:13 PM

possibly

But remember - I am hitting the current steering stop at ride height - not the tire rubbing on the steering box. Sure my current/old turning radius had SUCKED in the past and I had hoped this box swap might change that but I guess that will not be happening...

75F350 · #**220** (**permalink**) 05-04-2009, 10:38 PM

Steve:

This was one of the reasons why I ran so much angle on my junk.
I also believe that my box is further forward on the frame than yours.
We should also consider that you are not running a stitch of lift, so this too has some affect on this problem.

03_PSD · #**221** (**permalink**) 05-05-2009, 11:52 AM

wow, just saw this thread. amazing job Steve!

Franken-Truck · #**222** (**permalink**) 05-05-2009, 01:02 PM

how would 4 or so inches of lift do for clearances and/or a little less back spacing at the rim?

looks good though

ChaseTruck754 · #**223** (**permalink**) 05-05-2009, 01:49 PM

Funny you should bring that up... a lift would certainly help the steering issues. BUT - I am really trying NOT to lift the truck as in my eyes the factory ride height with 35's is PERFECT. I can't stress how much I LOOOOVE the looks of this truck as it is. Same for rims. Offset would help - but I'm not changing from these rims as they are the best looking ones for these trucks IMO.

That being said, after talking to a couple buddies I trust last night it looks as if I might just stick with the 80's D60 I have and lift the truck 1/2 to 1" in doing so. DON'T TELL SUZY though - hahaha. She's already giving me enough crap about not being able to get in the truck and I REFUSE to add running board type steps to the thing as I think they KILL the looks.

I think I have decided to put the d60 in the truck starting now as well. So look for more on that very soon.

I didn't have a very productive night last night. Just a little time in the shop making a template to box that steering area and then some looking/thinking before I went to Suzy's for the one night a week I drive to her place to waste time catching up on the TV she likes to watch together (Heroes and Chuck).

75F350 · #**224** (**permalink**) 05-05-2009, 02:03 PM

Another thing I have to mention man, is that you have to watch the path that the steering shaft takes. Because this box is outboard of the frame, you have to make sure that you have adequate room for the undoubteldy huge shocks that you are gonna run.
I know you are undecided about this as of yet, but when I was throwing mu junk together, I had the idea of using a 2 tube 3 inch bypass shock. Well I failed to take the steering shaft and the tire into consideration.
Since the axle seldom moves up and down equally on both sides at the same time, we have to consider articulation. When the tires lean i and the suspension compresses, it get real close to the shock. I suspect you will be running a shock in the most efficient position, and forced articulation is something to consider.
Leaving room for shocks and Bypass tubes, or even reservoirs should be taken into consideration while you are at this stage.

Did the box actually sit at this angle when it was in the dodge?

ChaseTruck754 · #**225** (**permalink**) 05-05-2009, 02:28 PM

I have been thinking about shocks - and no, it's NOT pretty. As of now I am just running 2.5" bodied shocks. Not bypasses, but threaded body shocks without the coil kits on them. Reservoirs are no big deal, but I do need to look at clearing the body of the shocks with the tires, etc..

Speaking of steering - I meant to ask you last night where you get your borgeson (sp) joints for the steering shaft. I need a couple to make this thing work.

yes the steering shaft weill be tricky, and no - the dodge box was tilted up a bit. Maybe 30* or so.
I tried to look for a pic I took of it before I cut it out of the frame but I cam up with nothin, so here's a pic of the complete frame hunk. The section above the "oval" hole in the frame used to be level - as did the section above the "Z cut" in the front.