Hey Bill, I had always considered my truck an F200, kinda in between a 150 and 250, but this is good information. As for the multi-lug wheels, they are 7 luggers which made it damn near impossible to find an aftermarket wheel for it.

Oh, and when I bought mine I was told buy the dealership (a Ford truck only dealership, you know, F150s,250s,F600s, and on up) only the F150 supercab 4x4 with 8' beds came with the "h.d." payload package and that it was a requirement for those trucks, though the guy at the dealership could not give me a reason for the mandatory requirement on those models

 

Yeah I did even though I always thought that was an awfully thin grade of oil for these engines, but these 5.4s are engineered for it, so you really can't argue the point, plus others have been using the 5w20 (as they are supposed to) with no issues. I only switched because I got tired of the ticking and a mechanic friend of mine recommended it, I was very reluctant but did it anyway, and again no issues

 

Well I appreciate the info but I feel it's not as simple. The exact same motor with the exact same tolerances are speced for 5w30 outside the us. The reason ford calls for 5w20 and even back specd 5w20 on some older vehicles is still being debated. I am curious to see how many people who have made it over 200K on the 5w20 alone. Again, thanks for your input.

 

Just posted on the other thread about when to trade in.....My 08 4x4 5.4 has 175 thousand miles and all I have done is replace brakes, tires, belt and fluids per schedule. Oh ya, battery and plugs at 90k. Starting to get a timing chain rattle and phasers are getting noiser but......
Have always used Moto 5w20 and filter @ 4500 mile changes.
Blackstone says my motor has less than 50 thousand miles of wear on it.

 

I just purchased a 2004 F150 Lariat for 1600.00 yes you are reading correctly 1600.00. Has the cam phaser problem but comes with it and nephew is a top notch Ford mechanic, said it's about 10 hours to do, and he'd do it for a 12 pack of beer. I am so stoked, can't wait to get it up and running properly. very little surface rust in the normal ford areas.

 

I'm at 232K now. No internal work at all done. Only spark plugs and a starter. Everything else is original. You wouldn't believe how quite this baby still is. Truly been the best truck I've ever owned. I've been extremely **** about all service and have been running Mobil 1 full synthetic for over 100K at this point. I've always changed at 5K intervals.

 

My '07 F150 5.4 has over 211,000 miles on it and, so far, no mechanical issues. Phasers are quiet, spark plugs have been replaced twice, by me, no breakage at all. Cam covers and oil pan have never been off.
I've used 5W-30 conventional oil ever since it was out of warranty, oil and filter change every 3,000 miles.

 

I'm at 166xxx right now, only things I've had to do it have trans rebuilt at 162000, replaced passenger side cam due to seized follower at 125000, and replaced front rotors at about 130000. Going to be replacing shocks all around with Bilsteins soon and leveling it.

 

2004 5.4

 

I did the plugs myself at 100K. I had all day to work on them and it took me all day. There are a couple decent youtube video's out there. The bottom line is they are very difficult to replace. it sounds and feels like they are breaking when you get them loose, besides the two under the fire wall are very difficult to reach. But once you get used to what's happening it's not that bad. You have to crack them loose and spray some silicone lube in there and let it set about 10-15 minutes. It's not imperative it's silicone lube but what i had was a penetrating lube and it happened to be silicone based. It was the first time I did it and I wasn't sure about the sound of the cracking. I didn't break any of them so I didn't have to buy the $100 removal tool. I have a friend that just bought the tool and broke all of them. I don't think he saved much time. He just doesn't have the patience for that crap. be sure to put the anti-seize lube on the plugs when you put the new ones in. It makes a huge difference the next time.

 

My 08 now has 330,000, nothing new internal except new style vct's which for what ever reason eliminated the random chain rattle and diesel clatter after heavy pull when going in to reverse. Blackstone shows less than 100 k wear on motor.

 

I've got a 06 Lincoln Mark LT with 437094 miles and I have a 01Lariet Supercrew F-150 with 400510
I want to replace both drivetrains but both still have trucks still have Alot of life left.
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Gonna hit 600k miles in late March or early April

 

ALL,
I own a 2007 F150 Supercrew Lariat with the 5.4 3v. I have not been the biggest fan of this truck. Maybe i have read too much of the bad stuff on forums. I am constantly stressed something terrible is going to go wrong. Anyways the truck has just over 100k miles on it now, i bought it used with about 95k miles. Since i have owned the truck i have done regular oil changes about every 5k miles with 5w20 mobil 1 full synthetic and motorcraft oil filter, i changed all spark plugs just after i got it and also had to change one coil due to a missfire issue that was not throwing a code. I only had the issue when i was between 45-50mph and applied light throttle. I do hear a ticking noise coming from the timing chain cover and seems louder on drivers side. It is ONLY heard when at full operating temp and the RPM's are RIGHT at 1,000. I can not hear the ticking noise right after an oil change for about the first 100 miles and than it returns. From time to time the dash flashes low oil pressure during a cold start but it is so quick you would miss it if you blinked. Light comes on and oil pressure goes right up. I have been told dont worry about the ticking noise until i start having no oil pressure during regular operating conditions. Yalls thoughts...? I am about to buy a travel trailer and i am wondering if there is anything i should be concerned about or should check before towing. I have yet to tow anything with this truck and have no idea what to expect, i have always owned chevys. The furthest i would tow the RV would be about 200 miles one way, other than that it would be short trips. are there any upgrades for towing i should look into. I am removing clutch fan and installing dual electric fan kit to provide more cooling. Any info or advise concerning this whole post would be appreciated!! Thank You!

 

Having owned a 2006 EC 5.4L with 3.55 gears, this is what I have experienced towing a 6800 lb. enclosed car trailer. The rear springs on these trucks are inadequate for towing anything heavier than 4000 lbs. Either air bags or Helwig overload springs are needed to keep the rear axle off of the frame bumpers. I prefer the Helwigs because there is less maintenance once installed and because air bags cost more and deteriorate over time. Tires are another issue. I would never tow a car trailer or travel trailer again with P-metric tires that F150's are equipped with. E-rated tires are highly recommended for stability. A Weight Distributing hitch is recommended for heavier trailers. Don't lug the engine while towing. The sweet spot for a 5.4L is 1800-2500 rpm on level ground. You don't want the transmission to be hunting gears. It's destructive to the tranny over time due to excessive heat. So you probably won't be using overdrive much. But I would get the transmission serviced before towing. For the short distances that you will be travelling, the F150 will perform well enough for you, especially if you heed my recommendations. They do tow better than GM or Dodge 1/2 ton pickups. But I upgraded to an F250 Powerstroke for towing.