Wiring diagram for a 91 F250 Diesel?
#1
#3
You can find it at the Clutch Interlock Switch/Jumper under the dash on the drivers side.
#4
I am guessing you will have the jumper, since you have a auto tranny. It leaves the ignition switch on the bottom of the column, and makes it's way through the jumper to the firewall, and then down to the side of the tranny to the neutral safety switch. It then makes it's way back up and over to the starter relay(solenoid) on the fender. The whole time it stays the same color.
#5
I am guessing you will have the jumper, since you have a auto tranny. It leaves the ignition switch on the bottom of the column, and makes it's way through the jumper to the firewall, and then down to the side of the tranny to the neutral safety switch. It then makes it's way back up and over to the starter relay(solenoid) on the fender. The whole time it stays the same color.
First I'll pull the plug, then I try it with the one wire snipped.
But I need it to start in gear, so if I supply 12V to the Red wire with a Blue stripe from that comes from that connector, but after the neutral safety switch, the starter will turn over even if it's in gear?
I guess I should just go to the shifter selector/neutral safety switch and look for it there.
Thanks guys, I'll give it a look and see if I can find it.
FYI I need to kill and restart the engine engine while it is still in gear.
I have the fuel pump solenoid (on/off) already wired to a switch in the dash and the starter button just needs to be wired in.
#6
If you want to disable the park/neutral safety switch function, the best way is to get to the connector under the truck that goes to the switch on the side of the tranny, and jump or twist the two red/blue wires together. If you have other wires going there, make sure not to disturb them, since they go to the reverse lights.
#7
I only want it disabled when I push a remote starter button, otherwise I would rather it remain functional like the injector pump, it works like normal with the key, until the switch is pushed in to kill it.
My intent is to try and get up over 20 mpg city and 30 freeway, so when I pull the mirrors, make the curved bed cover and install the HHO generator, I just might do it.
Right now as the truck is set up, the best was 19 city and 24 freeway, but I don't always kill the engine at red lights.
I still have to install the Smack HHO generator and test the mileage improvements compared to my recent reading as the next step, then I get serious about the aerodynamic modifications.
My intent is to try and get up over 20 mpg city and 30 freeway, so when I pull the mirrors, make the curved bed cover and install the HHO generator, I just might do it.
Right now as the truck is set up, the best was 19 city and 24 freeway, but I don't always kill the engine at red lights.
I still have to install the Smack HHO generator and test the mileage improvements compared to my recent reading as the next step, then I get serious about the aerodynamic modifications.
Trending Topics
#8
Well I found that the red with a blue strip wire in the middle one of three connectors clustered above the drivers side front wheel right by the fire wall and steering column and it was after the neutral safety switch going straight to the starter.
I wired the remote starter power through the injector pump kill switch, and that gets it's power from the key on power to the original pump wiring, so the ignition and the kill switch both have to be in the on position for the remote starter to work.
I am now all hooked up!
Thanks guys!
I wired the remote starter power through the injector pump kill switch, and that gets it's power from the key on power to the original pump wiring, so the ignition and the kill switch both have to be in the on position for the remote starter to work.
I am now all hooked up!
Thanks guys!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post