DEEP CYCLE batteries in theory won't allow total discharge - thereby saving them from grid short out (which is the idea behind RV and MARINE batteries)
Drain anything long enough and it's done for though. I've got a ruined RV deep cycle outside my garage right now...
NO BATTERY OR COMBINATION OF BATTERIES IS IMMUNE TO COMPLETE DEPLETION. Remember that I said that
When you have six volters in series, they store a lot more amperes. Roughly double the charge of a single 12V on it's own.
Two 12V's in parallel do the same.
You can explore 12V batteries with higher charge levels if you want, and you can carry as many as you want - connected in as many ways as you please.
BUT IF YOU IGNORE OBVIOUS SIGNS THAT THEY ARE GOING DEAD NOTHING CAN HELP YOU......
If you run them all the way down they die. They just do.
If you had a generator, my question is why didn't you use it in time?
Probably the best you can do is two pairs of 6volt batteries in series/parallel, but you can do the same thing with heavy duty 12V truck batteries wired positive to positive in series, and the negatives wired in a row the same way. Six of one, half dozen of the other - the chemistry is the same. JUST DON'T RUN THEM DOWN that far....
There's no way a single twelve volt could do what you asked of it.
I don't mean to be harsh, or to anger you. You didn't know!
But let me provide an example - suppose if you had a truck (not a diesel) with only one battery.
You park it on friday with the headlights left on - and on monday you go out to it.
Would the battery still be any good?
That's the question now.
The only thing I think you can do about that battery is to put it on a charger - give it eight solid hours.
When you disconnect the charger, use a meter to read across the posts and write it down.
Come back in an hour and read across the posts with a meter - if it reads close to the same it survived. If it is way low a cell is shorted and it's a goner....
Like I said - the design of deep cycle batteries is intended to prevent them from discharging to a point that is not survivable. They "SAVE" themselves.
But sometimes it works, and sometimes it doesn't.
Question is - what kind of battery was it, and did it work?
(Some RV dealers are cheaper than I can tell you. You have no idea)
You asked if you leave the headlights on... my Dura-whatever battery has survived that a few times, seemingly without fault. Standard, high-capacity starting battery.
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Nathan
2002 F150 SuperCab Short Bed FX4 5.4L V8 Firestone Load Level Air Suspension - totalled by Spradley Barr Ford
1995 K3500 Regular cab 8' bed 4x4 6.5L
2007 Featherlite 8413 20x7x7' Stock Trailer
Another battery solution involves going down to your local marine supply store! A company called "Perko" makes marine dual-battery swiches(lots of different variations) the one ive used in a bunch of trucks,has 4 positions OFF,BATT 1,BATT 2, BOTH. The contacts are what are referred to as "make before break" design,which means you can switch between batt 1,batt2 and both with engine running without damage to your alternator. If you use one of these switches with a pair of identical deep-cycle batteries,you can set switch at both while driving/charging,and you have the option of isolating the batteries when your camping. one precaution however,if you run one battery way down,you then should recharge it alone,as in charge it isolated from other battery,otherwise the two batteries will equalize charge states. the switch should run $30 bucks or so,its one solution,and its affordable!
I used a perko on my last trailer as I kept forgetting to either turn off the furnace or the dang light in the fridge. Either way, walmart covered both batteries that died from complete discharge and installed and switch. No problems after that.
For the money,its a good setup! I googled Discount welding supplies,i found a place back east somewhere that had 2G welding cable for less than a buck/fifty a ft. and good prices on terminal lugs,had a dual battery setup for one of the Fords for cheap. Its amazing when you buy an old beater truck,what kinda battery cables you typically get! frayed 6G wire,half the strands broken,the others clamped in a discount auto parts store universal battery terminal,1/4" of corrosion on both loose fitting terminals,BUT it still starts! Suffice to say,one of my first projects always on a beater is to upgrade batt cables.......
I have a 29' 5Th Wheel with a single battery. I am guessing (and will have the battery tested to confirm) that it is probably no longer reliable. I went dry camping this past weekend, for only the second time with this camper in 4 years. We were extremely conservative with power usage and by the beginning of the second night, the battery was drained enough to not even have enough power to light the fridge. Thank god for generators. Can a second battery be added, and if so how is it wired to the trailer and tow vehicle (for charging)?
The original converter was a piece of crap, which I finally had replaced a couple of months ago. The new converter manages the charging of the trailer battery. My guess is the old converter probably over charged the battery numerous times and cooked it.
The current set up obviously charges the battery when the trailer is connected to the tow vehicle with the engine running. Again, hGroundow would a second battery be installed?
(If they are in the trailer) Buy, 2 "Marine" Batteries or the equivelant. Connect them as follows: Battery #1, place the battery so that the POS post is next to the NEG post on battery #2. On battery #1 the NEG Post is connected to a ground and the POS post is connected to the NEG post on Battery #2. The POS post on Battery #2 is connected to a charging system. You can put a constant duty FORD solonoid (steel NOT bakalite) in the engine compart of the tow vehicle. Hook a wire from 1 small stud to the alternat & a wire from the other small stud to the plug you use for the trailer ights. Use any unused port. The cable from battery #2 POS post connects to the trailer plug (us aport that lines up with the port on the tow vehicle plug). Now the batterys will charge while you are driving.
(If they are in the trailer) Buy, 2 "Marine" Batteries or the equivelant. Connect them as follows: Battery #1, place the battery so that the POS post is next to the NEG post on battery #2. On battery #1 the NEG Post is connected to a ground and the POS post is connected to the NEG post on Battery #2. The POS post on Battery #2 is connected to a charging system. You can put a constant duty FORD solonoid (steel NOT bakalite) in the engine compart of the tow vehicle. Hook a wire from 1 small stud to the alternat & a wire from the other small stud to the plug you use for the trailer ights. Use any unused port. The cable from battery #2 POS post connects to the trailer plug (us aport that lines up with the port on the tow vehicle plug). Now the batterys will charge while you are driving.
Install a 25 amp circuit breaker in that line or your alternator will overheat trying to charge up two dead batteries. It will take a lot longer to charge up the batteries that way, but you don't fry your truck's electrical system either.
Also that setup requires that you use two 6v batteries which when connected in series like that will make a total of 12v.
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Dan
1999 F550 4x4 ZF6 pulling a Cedar Creek 36RLTS. Lotta mods.
1999 VW Jetta TDI 5speed stick, all stock.
1996 Audi A4 Quattro. Unstoppable in the snow and ice. God and Dog
You are correct about placing a 25 amp circuit breaker in line, I forgot to include that in the directions I gave. Two 12 volt deep cell batteries can be hooked up in the manner I explained. I have a trailer & a boat using that method. Also, the four batteris that start my 18 wheeler are hooked up in that manner. You get 12 volts, but you get a longer drawing or cranking time.
You are correct about placing a 25 amp circuit breaker in line, I forgot to include that in the directions I gave. Two 12 volt deep cell batteries can be hooked up in the manner I explained. I have a trailer & a boat using that method. Also, the four batteris that start my 18 wheeler are hooked up in that manner. You get 12 volts, but you get a longer drawing or cranking time.
If you put two 12V batteries wired in series the way you have described, you have 24V. And a potentially fried truck and trailer electrical system.
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David Chamberlain
2004 F-250 SD, 4x4 FX4, 6.0L PSD
Oregon Chapter Member: To join the Oregon Chapter, click HERE
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Dan
1999 F550 4x4 ZF6 pulling a Cedar Creek 36RLTS. Lotta mods.
1999 VW Jetta TDI 5speed stick, all stock.
1996 Audi A4 Quattro. Unstoppable in the snow and ice. God and Dog
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