Several years ago I saved a 76 F150 4x4 from the crusher the body is horribly rusted and dented and the motor is shot, it was only 40$. A couple months ago I came across a free 69 F100 2wd Ranger no motor or trans. But the bed has only surface rust and the only spot on the cab is above the front right cab mount the front end was rusted and banged up. I want to put the body on my 76 frame and would like to hear from some body who has done this. Also I may have to use the steering column fromt the 76, I have no idea how to remove or install those. I am still not sure what grille I want to put on I love 67s and 70 and 71s. However nobody makes a replacement 71. The 67 might fit better because the 69 bady has no rear side turnsignals.

 

DS, The cab and front clip is a direct bolt on exchange, no modding anywhere. I would suggest to rig an overhead lift system and pull the cab and clip together. That way you don't have to try to realign anything back. Just lift and roll one chassis out and the new one back under.

There is 4 inches added to the rear of the 76 cab beyond the rear mounts that the 69 does not have. I have read where folk have kept the cab to the rear of the mount holes, added a little more space between the cab and bed and fudged their way out. The issues are on what I call the dumb end of the chassis, (no alignment) required.

It is not a bad exchange and with a liitle thinking it out you can complete it in a long weekend. IMHO

Ask more questions and we all will try to help.


John

 

How much does the cab and clip weigh?

I need to repair the mounts on mine....

 

I have never weighed one, but would think 600lbs tops, and probably less, it's all sheetmetal, it just makes up a mass. I have never lifted a cab but have raised one side to slide something under it.

My guess anything that would lift a FE engine/tranny combo would lift the cab/clip.


John

 

I like to pull the cab and clip as seperate units. Unless you have access to something like an overhead crane balance can be a big problem. 2 people in decent shape can handle the clip. 3 is better to help with balance. An engine crane can handle the cab but I'd suggest being on a level, paved surface. Although it will weigh in around the same as an FE/C6 it's wider and longer than most shop cranes. If one of the wheels drops into a drain or something while moving it the cab will act like a pendulum and may flip the crane.

 

lmc does have a new 71-72 grill surround $$$$. I have the inserts for a 71 grill and may be able to get you an entire 72 setup on a parts truck my cousin is about to crush. I can tell you the inserts for the 71 i have in hand and are in good shape. i have not seen the 72 personally but can get pics. it was a complete truck(rust bucket) and may have the inserts damaged.

 

Redcat, I believe you are thinking some totally different than me. I was thinking using an overhead beam. You lift the cab/clip up, roll one chassis out and the new back under. Nothing to get excited about tipping over.

Anytime that you can pull sheetmetal together you eliminate the time that you have to use lining everything back up.


John

 

John, I did catch your post on overhead rigging. I factored in human muscle or a floor crane as a lot of guys don't have access to a beam or better yet an overhead crane. I've lifted them both ways and do agree that lifting the clip with the cab saves a bunch of time.

A wrecker with a hydraulic boom works well too.

Clay

 

DS, my cousin is going to take some pics of the grill on the 72 and ill post them up here to see if you can work with it.

 

takin the cab/clip is the only way ta go its alot less work and ya dont have to realine anything. here how i do cab swaps



i didnt even take the battery out of the tray!!!

 

The 76 steering column should bolt right in.

 

Wizzard that is how I was gonna transfer the cab I dont have to do it with the front clip on because it was off when I bought it, did it dent the doors any when you did that? Lime gold I have never transfered steering columns how do remove it. shift how far are you from South Dakota? is the front clip any good? A neighbor has a pickup sitting next to his house that I drive past everyday it is obviosly a transplant because its an F100 twin I beam body on a 3/4 tom chasis and there is about 4 inches between the cab and body. Is it possible to eliminate the space? Im thinking modified crossmembers and holes in the bed.

 

Friend there is no 1/2 ton, 3/4 ton body. The is only one body front clip up to 6 wheel dually.

Sounds like someone may have used a body lift. Lifting the cab with a strap shouldn't damage the doors.

Once separated, the column is connected at the firewall, and under the dash, along with the wiring. You may want to use the older cuff at the dash on the newer column.

John

 

jowilker you are right there is no 1/2 ton or 3/4 ton bodies but its a 1966 Ford body with a badge that says F100 Twin I beam (which twin I beam was 2wd only), sittin on a 4wd highboy chasis with 8 lugs on the axles. Thats what I was getting at sorry for not clarifying that earlier. So are you saying the steering column just bolts right on, Im gonna have to look closer.

 

I believe it was 67 that the 2wd and 4wd sheet metal became the same. Firewall and floor pans are the same from 65-72, in 73 4" was added to the rear of the floor pan behind the mount point, so parts are exchangeable from 65 to 79 when the 80 models changed everything.

The manual and power steering columns are different lengths in the engine bay (same in cab). 2wd trucks that use the use the Saginaw power gears are 2 3/8" shorter that the manual.

If you are looking at a truck with a body lift the column has been modified somehow. I believe you are a ways out from needing the column so get your sheet metal happy on the chassis that you plan to use and while you are underneath mating up the driveline you can be working on the correct column length.

It'll come together for you, I'm sure. There is plenty advice here, some better than other, so get after it.


John