I have a 2000 F-350 7.3 and is my very first diesel. I live in the hills of Tennessee where the temp "usually" doesn't get below 20 degreees or so in the winter, but occasionally gets lower. Do I need a fuel heater?....if so when?......how cold is cold enough to use the block heater?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

I don't normally see very cold temps, but oil likes being a little warm as does the engine. More so though, batteries like being warm. I would say, use the block heater as much as you like, it most likely has a thermostat so it will only keep the oil so warm. I don't think diesel will freeze in the lower half of the US, and if the engine is warm it shouldn't have a hard time igniting the fuel.

I don't know much about diesels though.

 

no fuel heater, just use Power Service anti-gel fuel additive. you can get it at walmart and most parts stores. it gets colder in NE and that stuff works great.

 

p.s. I assume you use 15w40, that's rated down to 20* I don't switch during the winter, but if you want to try 10w30 a block heater isn't a necessity, but it is a big help. easier starts and faster warm ups. it has to be plugged in for at least 3 hours to make a difference

 

Good to know. Couldn't you just use 10w40 all the time?...or is that available for diesels?

BTW, I know it takes 15 quarts of oil, but I have no problem biting the bullet and spending the bucks for synthetic so that my oil change schedules are longer.

 

The only thing you need to do is let the glow plugs go through the warming cycle and then start it up. Walk away for enough time to get heat and defrost windows. You will notice that the engine goes into a warm-up cycle and the exhaust will sound like a jet engine taking off. If you aren't so patient then use the block heater at least an hour before starting.

Lighter oils are only needed if you find starting to be difficult. Once the oil warms up the oil weight is no longer a factor. Save your money on the oil change and just see how it does.

Fuel additive can be combined with the fuel to decrease chance of the fuel gelling. If the fuel does gel then you are going nowhere until the fuel can be warmed again.

 

the manual distinkly say at least 3 hours, 1 hour isn't enough time.

 

You have to read between the lines. 3 hours is worst case scenario with a fully cold soaked truck at rated cold start temp.

 

It gets pretty darn cold in the winter here, even though it's Oregon.

I bought a Katt's Hot Pad oil pan heater, just to make things easier, but I really don't think it's necessary. The block heater really doesn't do anything to heat the oil though, it just heats the coolant in the block. The block heater doesn't draw a tremendous amount of power (1000 watts I believe), I use mine as much as I want. If you live on a schedule, you can get a heavy duty electrical timer to start up the block heater 3 hours before you usually start the truck in the morning. A lot of guys go to 5W-40 Synthetic in the winter, so the oil is lighter at start up. Some guys also go extended oil changes with the synthetic, but I'm not convinced this is a good idea.

Most places where it gets cold in the winter start selling winterized diesel. This is usually done by mixing in a certain amount of kerosene (#1 diesel) in with the standard #2 diesel. They do that here but I still use a anti-gel, just to be safe. If your fuel gels, you're kinda screwed because, as I understand it, the paraffins in the fuel (wax) separate out and solidify and just warming it back up won't cause the wax to liquefy and mix back in. The entire fuel system needs to be cleaned and that's a pain.

Power Service Diesel Kleen is popular, because you can get it anywhere. There is a summer version and a winter version, the winter version has more anti-gel properties. One is a white bottle and one is a grey bottle and I don't remember which is which but someone here (or at the parts counter) can tell you. If you don't mind mail order, Stanadyne is popular. I use Opti-Lube XPD, because it came out best for lubrication on a test done and posted here recently. I think any of these are probably good enough and none of them are particularly expensive.

As someone else said, turn on the key, wait for the glow plug light to go out and crank it over. There is a lot of debate on how much warm up time is necessary. Some say none is better, some say you gotta let it warm up. I don't know, I generally wait a minute or two and go.

If you have weak batteries, winter is when you're going to find that out. It takes a lot of juice to run the glow plugs, crank it over, and still power the computers and injectors and stuff to start it. If your batteries aren't up to snuff, replace them. Always replace both. I've never used battery warmers and unless you're in very cold temps, I don't think they're necessary.

Now would also be a good time to carefully check over your cooling system. There are issues with the 7.3, apparently, where there is an additive you're supposed to use. I'm not too familiar with it, since I run a 6.0L and it uses different coolant. At the very least, get a coolant tester and make sure you're protected well below the lowest temperature you expect to see. Nothing sucks more than a cracked block in the middle of winter. You might post in the 7.3 forum for more information.

Enjoy your 7.3. It's a hell of a strong engine. My Dad has a 96 with close to 200K on it and it's still going strong.

 

I'm in WV and have the same basic weather. Here's what I have learned by experience.

1. Use the PowerServide in the white jug for cold weather...it has an anti-gel agent in it. The gray bottle is for warm weather...same stuff, just no anti-gel.

2. Plug the truck in anytime the temp is below freezing. It took me a while to find the plug but when I did...what a difference. Put your logic hat on for a second....cold oil is thicker and it in turn makes the engine harder to turn over. The warmer the oil, the easier it turns over thus putting less strain on everything...including your starter!

My truck has to stay out in the winter because my garage is too full of other stuff. I also have dogs...when I take the dogs out for the last time at night, I plug the truck in. When I come out in the morning, she fires right up like it's 80 degrees outside.

Joe

 

Thanks for the info guys. Good info. Exactly what I wasv looking for.

 

we've got an o1 f550 with a 7.3. if its below freezing the truck will not start withought being plugged in.

That said, We plug them in everynight, or pull em inside the heated warehouse

 

i plug in when i can to save fuel on warm up time, but i have never had a problem with starting or running with the truck in cold temps and i live in MASS.

 

x2 on the fuel savings, if i don't plug it in, it won't start. i'm pretty sure i need new batts

 

I wonder if your glow plugs are working? I hardly drive my truck in winter but just for kicks and grins on a -10F day I went out and started up just fine from fully cold soaked condition without block heater. Only a few seconds of cranking and it went to low idle quickly. Took a bit of time to warm up.

I've use the block heater only once just to see what would happen. I suppose I would use it more if I didn't have a Jeep Cherokee to drive in winter. There's just no way I'm going to get into a diesel after work and wait to defrost windows and get warm. The Jeep warms up so fast I usually don't even scrape the windows except to remove snow.