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Is F-150 Still King?
 
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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 02-26-2009, 09:04 PM
quaddriver quaddriver is offline
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quaddriver has a good reputation on FTE. quaddriver has a good reputation on FTE.
yes and no - they are pretty high traffic and since I discovered them last august, they have gotten rid of about 1/2 the vehicles to the smoosher

they have a decent truck selection right now, but in the last 2 weeks, all the engines not junk are gone and a lot of the accoutrements are gone. 80-86 is getting rare...

and they got someone they call the 'core man' that takes all the radiators, cats, and alloy wheels when the vehicles come in - condition be damned.
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 03-05-2009, 05:58 AM
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bigunred bigunred is offline
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bigunred is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
Congrats on the progress, and thanks for keepin up with what you are doing on here for the rest of us.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 03-16-2009, 02:58 PM
quaddriver quaddriver is offline
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quaddriver has a good reputation on FTE. quaddriver has a good reputation on FTE.
The next step is actually in progress, but it involves another truck.

since my research found out that the number of different springs is actually quite limited, I figure the stock front springs from the other 90 4x4 (aka "new blue") will fit, but step 1 is to remove them from new blue and replace with the super HD springs from "old blue".

During this procedure I am replacing the fancy schmancy shocks the new blue PO had installed cuz......some monkey put them in without 1 inch of antisieze on any bolt or sleeve. Anyone who works any suspension component without using antisieze needs to be punished.

I had the simple monroe sensatracs that were brand new on old blue when I scrapped it, so you can imagine the number of parts and tools on the shop floor right now. FORTUNATELY ford gives a provision to remove the lower shock mounts on the 4x4s in case the bolt is stuck on the sleeve.

Once this task is done, then I can head over to the 81 and swap the springs and install the front/rear sway bars. All the hard parts were partswashed, blasted, buffed and painted. (This is why it takes me so long, I dont just install used parts, I reman them first) Not to mention new bushings were obtained. I have a pic somewhere of how pretty they are.

so in the next few weeks that task will fall.

Then the PS pump (all brackets cleaned, blasted, painted - CBP hereafter) as well as the pulley CBP.

Last trip to the yard obtained a non-AC plastic glove box, to replace the paper one, and a brake pedal for a sitck shift (CBP), using an even longer fulcrum than the one I made. I'll have to be careful I dont lock her up!

all exhaust items are on hold for the time being. Its almost time to free up half the shop by pulling the boat out and I still have to schedule in a rear main change for new blue

Unless it happens to sell, this truck will be at Carlisle ATN again.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 04-13-2009, 08:39 AM
quaddriver quaddriver is offline
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I had a free day so the front and rear sway bars are in.

The hardest part was removing the nuts on the long bolt that holds the radius arm to the I-beam axle end.

once that was apart, in goes the lower sway bar mounts and back together it goes.

the actual install of the front crossmember (I blasted and painted the one from old blue) and the bushings, bars links etc took 1 hr including jacking and tool moving time. It does pay to have all the parts reconn'ed to look new.

MY brake pads are thin so I got rotors, pads and bearings to swap out next sat - I also need king bolts, the drivers side has a little longitudinal movement. I found a camber kit for king bolts - anyone ever use these?

I did find that after a weekend of driving it at highways speeds - the steering box has too much play. the bars really stiffened up the handling - no more listing like a destroyer with 4 torpedoes in the side. But I discovered she likes to wander. Im not gonna reman or install a reman manual box in it when I have a perfectly good 50K mile power box sitting around and Im close to putting in the pump (all I need is time, everything is assembled neatly)

I may be in danger of running out of things to do to this truck soon.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 07-13-2009, 03:54 PM
quaddriver quaddriver is offline
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quaddriver has a good reputation on FTE. quaddriver has a good reputation on FTE.
BTW - on saturday last, I added power steering.

Once again my 'rule of thumb' for ford fits: if it bolts, it fits.

I noted that the auto parts catalogs had essentially 2 numbers for f100/f150 steering boxes: manual or power.

So the power box from my 90 is on there

gotcha #1: the front of the 80-86 frame is narrower by about 1/2 inch than the 90. You need to use the old bolts, not the 90 bolts.

The pump is a CII from a early-mid 80's I6 that cleaned up well.

The bracketry is all from 81-86 F150 I6's BUT,

gotcha #2: there is a difference in the 'depth' of the front bracket that attaches to the timing cover.

I noticed on the first truck, the bolts had a nut, then a stud, you installed the timing cover bolt, then the bracket over top, then a further nut.

well I lost those parts and got straight bolts. It seems if the truck has AC, the pulley setback is different.

So I bushed the bracket out the proper distance.

I even used the steering shaft from the 90, the rag joint is better and the pinch bolt fit better.

Gotcha #3:

The old shaft uses a bolt at the upper end that is round and has a carriage-like square end to holt id, then uses a nut.

the new shaft used a bolt that threaded into the other side of the shaft.

Lastly, gotcha #4:

the 1990 (87-96) 4x4 used the SAME pitman arm as the 80-86 4x2!

But the 87-96 4x2 uses yet a different pitman arm.

So I reused my 90's pitman.

got a 46.5 inch belt and away she goes....

I even used the convoluted tubular PS cooler from the 90.

Next up: I tore it apart the change out the kings, rotors, pads, wheel bearings.

Just had the bushings reamed this AM....will install after a nap

AND

My very small radiator was starting to seep. At the shop, my radiator guy had a larger 6cyl radiator with AT cooler - NOS out the door for $130

This truck will be at carlisle....
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 07-19-2009, 11:55 AM
quaddriver quaddriver is offline
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Have I finally finished?

I got 2 reman calipers from rock auto for $10 each no core (how the heck they can afford to do that?) and got new ties and adjusters, remaned a drag link from a 90 4x4 (didja know its the same part?)

put on new hoses, made a brake line or two and viola - done.

the radiator went in fine but the support was only open for a small radiator, so I took some sheet metal and shielded the motor, and used the plasma cutter to open up the support for the new width, then cut off the 'wing' from the removed piece and wire welded it back to the support so it looks like I have a factory wider support.

Had to get a different upper hose (which no one stocks) and I did a half hour test - she does not heat up - I had found that the I-6 no-AC/ no automatic radiator is technically too small for the motor - thats why it had a direct drive fan - would heat up (plus clogs with age and crap)

The new radiator the shop owner orderd for an I-6 with auto and AC from 84/85 and never sold it - it literally was NOS for about 15 years in a box. He took it out, tested it, cleaned the dust off....

So now, ask me how having PS is? YEah I know all the OTHER trucks have PS but I am used to being in this truck and wrestling....now it just hums down the road...

The only other improvment/mod is the trailer hitch - which is on the floor ready for the blaster/paint cabinet.

so what did I do to this stripper truck from day 1?

1) aluminum van wheels (look hot)
2) rear slider window to replace solid glass
3) nice cap
4) fixed the tiny rust and painted it
5) swapped out the instruments for one with a tach
6) amfmcd and 2 speakers in factory location
7) 3.55 LS 8.8 rear with 5450 springs replacing a 2.47 9" open and 4700 springs
8) fan clutch, fan clutch water pump and re-sized pulleys
9) tuneup crap and rebuilt carb
10) bumper with push "bars" (factory)
11) power brakes
12) PS using correct brackets, CII pump and reman ford box
13) larger radiator with support mods
14) day/night rear view mirror
15) new door seals (well ok, from a 90)
16) all new brake lines, hoses, calipers blah blah blah
17) front and rear swaybars with correct pins/links and new bushings
18) trailer hitch (in progress)

all of the improvements/mods ford parts came from other ford trucks. remember my motto: if it bolts, it fits

of the replacement parts, about 70% came from rock auto (like the ties, calipers, bushings), the rest from advance.

all labor but the bodywork/paint and final alignment came from me (but sears did offer me a job starting next weekend for weekends when Im not busy as they put it: I know more about alignments than their techs do AND I have my inspection license)

now...to sell it at carlisle....Im starting 2 atv rebuilds (frame up) and need my space and time back (I got 4 kids, 3 of which have learned to ride and the 4th wants to mimic the older kids.)

I paid $300 for this truck and think I am into it for $3500 total over 3 years (incl the $1200 paint job) - or thereabouts
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