Slow weekend again. I swapped out the belts - the 83 fan clutch pully was smaller so the alt is at the end of its travel to tighten the belts. however, I took a few moments to discover how advance auto's parts numbers line up for belts, walked in and got 2 belts in my own size and now I have some adjustment room.
Also swapped in a temp sender from a 90 5.0 and the gauge now responds. dunno what the 'n' in "normal" corresponds to, but it beats no signal at all.
started looking at adding a fuse panel and some interior lights and a power strip to the cap, just doing parts gathering/placement as of now. gonna run a 25A breaker thru a 12G wire to the rear into a 6place blade center. wire in rv road lights into the front and rear of the cap to aid in loading, rehook up the little ceiling light, put in a 12v power tap and mount a set of infinity satellites so I can have tunes if I go camping.
got the parts lined up for the power brakes, have the PS pump/brackets soaking.
Got the kids an old honda 3 wheeler to putt around the property so my fix up time has been appropriated.
I noticed something...since the fan pulley was smaller for the fan clutch, than the one used previously, I have in fact speeded up the water pump. I have also by default, since the AIR pump is driven from the fan, speeded up the AIR pump.
So I went to the boneyard and got a bigger pulley and one that used a 15/32's belt instead of the old 9/32's belt. Now the air pump is slowed back down.
I also snapped some pics of the engine bay. mind you, aside from pulleys I blast and paint, this is stock from the factory.
Right off the bat you see that the valve cover is the wrong ford blue. it is 'new ford blue' whereas the air cleaner and the snorkle show the correct color combo for the year. I am likely to take this all out this winter, blast and paint to new, using correct colors. Aside from filters and wires, this engine is bone stock, except the pedantic will note that the 81 300I6 did not come with the fan clutch. they do now ;-)
I do have a chrome valve cover for this...debating to install.
Now the next image
This shows more of the bone stock engine bay. note the firewall - not even surface rust, just some oil grime.
Note the powerless brakes - that is the next project.
Yes the coolant was spilled whedn I swapped water pumps to do the fan clutch. I had not cleaned it up at the time.
A minor score today....boneyard in WV I have been hitting has an 83 F100 I have been pirating parts off of, got the bumper. It needs a polish, but is rust and dent free.
Instead of being drilled, it has bumper 'stanchions' on it (I dunno what else you would call them - push bars?) and very nice shape.
$50. It should take a good 20 minutes to install one weekend...
I found this truck in the parking lot behind some company 3 years ago, it had sat for 2 years. they pouring in a few gallons of gas, hooked up a jumper cable and viola, the 300-6 came to life. The body is 99% original - 2 small holes by the rear bumper so a few panels from carlisle and a paint job later and she is as she is (I have pics in my gallery)
You used jump leads and a viola?
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2008 Ford F150 King Ranch
2005 Toyota Landcruiser EFI4500
Watching this thread as I'm giving my newly acquired '86 Shortbed, also with the inline 6 and 4-speed w/od a makeover. Just installed my rear sliding window today.
I have been lazy of late, working on the 90 - I have the brakes all ready to go, the PS all ready to go, as well as F/R sway control - someone reading my thread contacted me and has the parts, just waiting for a shipping quote. Lastly I have my 'new' bumper lined up, but we have cold and snow and misery in NW PA now, so I need the garage - which is totally full at the moment...
Its been a while, but yesterday I got some nickel and dime stuff out of the way - removed the fog light relay system in prep to ditch the foglight bumper for a plain bumer, added a light to the OP gauge, put in a cig lighter, put in an aux fusebox fed by #10 wire and ran the radio and lighter from it properly, swaped out my standard rear view for one with 'night adjustment', and cleaned/lubed the backup switch since advance sent me the wrong one (of course)
the truck is warm and dry while it snows so Im hoping to do the power brake conversion today and if I feel like it, swap front bumpers.
still to come: power steering, front and rear swaybars
oh and a new muffler, it seems THAT muffler went also, I have exactly one more standard truck muffler in stock (used of course) until I have to break down and buy one.
torn tho - should I spend a G to add the header, intake, 4bbl and cam and wake this truck up, or just keep as is to sell it this summer at carlisle (it has not sold the last 2 years and the economy aint any better - no one is buying play trucks)
The fulcrum length IS different between the 81 MB and the 90 PB. I do not know if this difference is between 81 MB-PB or just that 90 is a different bird.
So here is what you do...
REmove the brake pedal and grind off the weld that holds the pin in, then press the pin out of the shaft.
Drill another hole appx .550-.560, press it in and reweld. It almost looks like I know what Im doing.
I found that the clutch pivot shaft (that the brake pedal rides on) throws a arm that sends a rod thru the floor to the throwout pivot. the bushng was gone and the arm was eating into the end of the rod where it is bent to go thru the arm.
Fortunately I had some bushing material that went over the .425 shaft and I lubed it up. This appears to be a failure point. At any rate, my clutch is way tighter now, I need to adjust it.
so, I get her all together and I got a reman M/C to put on the 90 booster. I remade new lines from the MC to the prop valve but here is a question: the 90 MC has the proportioning built into it. the 81 valve does 2 things - proportions and wants of a single side service failure.
the 90 lets a side go, then when the fluid gets low, the reservoir light kicks in.
I wonder if I should remove the proportioning valve from the 90 MC and let it run straight.
Ill know better tomorrow once I bleed them off. the 81 and 90 both use 3/16 lines, but use a hodge podge of fittings. So, I salvaged the fitting ends and made my own lines...
yanno, Im starting to like this truck....first application of the brakes I locked them up...I seems I was programmed for a full on stomp and I thought I was taking it easy. drove it 10 miles and tried light and hard braking - excellent.
so let that be an item of interest: the newer boosters can work in the older trucks
And.....having tomorrow off, and some time on my hand....I put on the bumper I got from the boneyard. So now I have a perfectly straight, rechromable front bumper drilled for upper fog lights to sell.
wiring stuff, power brakes, a new bumper.
Im feeling quite ninja right now....I think Ill stop for the night and watch a fine movie.
took a half day from work today - it hit 60 down in WV and was sunny so off to Codys I went.
I had done an exploratory on monday so I had my targets:
Got the carb, air cleaner and all the crap off the top of the motor from another 1981 F100 just like mine.
the carb I will keep in my pocket, the cleaner will be blasted and painted to original factory colors to pretty up my engine.
Got a much better rear sway bar than the one I have - covered in grime from a leaky 302 (what other kind are there?) so into the parts washer it goes.
Got a plastic glove box to replace the paper one
Got a couple throttle solenoids. Yet another rear view mirror but a pretty one.
Another brake pedal with the pin about an inch further down, this should firm up the new power brakes even more.
A piece of the clutch linkage that was worn beyond belief
and one of those digital clock things - does anyone have the wiring schematic for it? I could not retain the harness.
I passed on springs for now....I have a set of HD springs from old blue I want in new blue. New blue is also a 6250 truck and Im thinking of putting the stock springs in the front of the 81. All up in the air. Its gonna take 1-2 weekends to clean, blast and paint and back all the suspension parts I have.
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