A couple comments:

Adding HHO, actually a combination of hydrogen and oxygen gasses produced through electrolysis should not affect the stochiometric mix required for the fuel. This is because the gas already has the stochiometric amount of oxygen required to burn the hydrogen. Therefore 'leaning' the fuel mix would do just that. Adding pure hydrogen gas would allow you to lean out the required oxygen to gasoline ratio because some of the oxygen would be needed to combust the fuel.

If the system uses seperate batteries to run the hydrogen production aparatus, then you cannot compare it to a system which uses the vehicle's electrical system. For a similar example, run half your cylinders from one gas tank and the other half from another. If you are able to drive 20 miles and use one gallon of gas in one tank, that doesn't mean that you are getting 20 miles to the gallon.

 

I am running a 2000 F-250 5.4 Gas. I built 1.9 my 1.5 /min liter hho Gen and am gaining about 20-25% increase in MPG. I have an EFIE enhancer for the MAF sensor. IT works quite well but need to find the sweet spot was a challenge without the scangauge II which I may purchase. Question: Does anyone know if we also have to either extend the O2 sensors before the Cat. Converter? Some one mentioned to me that it was necessary to have more than the EFIE enhancer for the MAF sensor.

 

I made one from PCV pipe and stainless strips a few years ago, put it on my 1996 towncar, and netted about a 5 mpg increase in sustained driving, it was too labor intensive for my wife who drove the car, but I will surely do that again when I am less busy. I think I spent about $50 making it, so it was well worth it anyway.

 

I did a little research on this. Got plans from a place called free energy.com. I did not recall them using the term Hho. Also found something similar that was patented in the '70's called Ogle. It would have a system to vaporize the gas and it sounds like similar results. Don' want to hijack the thread, but I believe far greater economy is achievable. I have a PDFs but can't seem to upload it. Has anyone heard of this?

 

I found this forum looking for answers. Thank you to everyone who is participating and posting results and plans. I'm running a 1995 7.5L F350 Crew cab 4X4. I started with a fuel savings mods article from 4-wheeler magazine. According to the article using basically my truck. According to the article there truck went from 4 mpg city to 8 mpg city and 8 mpg highway to 13.5 mpg highway. No HHO. Not to bad for an 1988-89 F350 running a 460. unfortunately, my truck did not get the same results. My best MPG is 10-11.5 MPG. sence then I have replaced the RAD, clutch fan for duel Derale 12" electric. I swapped the weak 96 amp alternator for an duel 250 amp alternators. Yes 2 alternators with a combined 500 amp potential. I also updated the wiring to accommodate all this power. I also added and have been inconstantly using an HHO system. My system is 6 15 amp dry cells and a 100 amp peak 60 amp continuous use PWM. I run my system between 30 and 60 amps. Finally i added an EFIE. it is connected to the 1 O2 sensor, IAT sensor, I had it connected to the MAP sensor but it kept throwing codes. Now that you all know what i have, here is my issue. I AM STILL ONLY GETTING 10 MPG!!!!!!!!! WTF!! Ok so can anyone please tell me what they have done to there truck to increase MPG. I really want to use HHO but its looking kinda bleak.

 

Get a diesel? Maybe an old four cylinder Ranger, especially a diesel version from the mid 1980s?

To be frank here, if this idea worked on the small scale being explored here, Ford would have implemented it already since they need all the CAFE brownie points they can get since the bulk of the car lineup has been eliminated.

 

Why are guys still screwing with this debunked crap? Gas is two bucks a gallon now, not over four bucks like when this thread was originally started twelve years ago....

You can achieve the same "results" by simply running "ultra-lean" (by diddling with the sensor signals) which is pretty much the only way these gimmicks show any "positive" results any. These gimmicks are mostly a tax on guys who didn't study thermodynamics or who slept through science and math classes back when they had a chance.

 

OK.......UPDATE!!! Things are looking up. So after reading my notes and a little more research I changed my configuration. I am now using an O2 sensor defouler/ extender, and disconnected it from the EFIE. I am still using the EFIE for the CAI and ETS. I have the truck thinking its air intake is 25-30 degrees warmer than it is, and the coolant ( witch is running 180-190 degrees) is 210-215 degrees. The HHO is still running at 28-32 amps( about 2 LPM). So far it is looking like 14-15 MPG. I will keep you posted.

 

Howdy, I had 300 6 in my 86 250. Went to second hand store picked up clear plastic sealable bulk food container. Some stainless plate 1/16 x 8 inch 2 in wide. Also got pcv valve, some tube, wire $10 for all cut plate into 2 pieces and hot glue to bottom after drilling a hole in each plate. Glued plates to bottom of container, attach 1 wire to each plate. Then drill 2 holes in lid 1 for wires the other for PVC valve. Run tube from from PVC to carb base plate. Critical care to put 1 wire on bomber switch in cab and route back to battery. After some tests found that white soft wood chips and distilled water worked best. Key note Never turn on hydrogen generator before starting engine. So now put 2inches of chips in bottom of container and fill with distilled water. Workes great I noticed the difference in climbing a mountain pass. Prior to to install I could do the pass at 45mph after was 60mph. What I didn't know was when plumbing in I used different metals so that caused a white crystal like powder around connections and thought it might scratch cylinders or valve guides but lasted life of truck. I will be installing a new version on 74 390 soon