I guess the HHO thread (a form of alternative fuel) is in the IDI 7.3 diesel page?
Oh well, here it goes.
I built a Smack HHO booster and after testing decided the instructions on line were off.
It said to cut the cell main body 12 inches long.
I did, and the over all cell height was over 16 inches and looked a lot longer than those pictured on line and they mention the over all height as 12 inches.
I reread the instructions and it does say to cut the main tube 12 inches.
Well, I decided to cut it shorter to match those pictured on the web site so I pulled the guts out to cut the main tube shorter.
Here is the issue I have a question about.
I noticed that there was a dark scorched kidney shaped looking patch on the outer plate surface above where the clear shrink wrap (made from a 2 liter bottle) comes in contact with the cell and pulls away to cover the top cell bolt.
Is this scorching normal?
I think it might be an issue that the area is exposed to reaction fluid but reduced fluid flow from the shrink wrap and is overheated.
It does look like the other cell plates are darker on the closer, reactive surfaces, and that might be a normal darkening of the plates, but I have not read about a darkening of the cell plates and am unwilling to tear it down to inspect the cells until I'm done testing it on my 7.3 IDI and have the next, bigger, more advanced cell unit built and ready to hook up.
Had to sell the Gray 1991 F250 standard cab, 7.3, E4OD, 3.55:1, stock wheels and tires.
It had a verified 19 mpg city taking off slow as hell then shutting it down at red lights, and with the radiator grill blocked flush, no bed cover, "drag shoot" mirrors still on I got 24 mpg at 50 to 55 mph on the freeway empty!
I'm just looking into setting one up for myself. haven't even had a chance to gather parts yet. A guy at my workplace has a running unit on his pickup. I haven't seen it, but talked with him a bunch about it. The reaction is rather exothermic (creates heat as a biproduct) and can melt/scortch stuff if not cooled in some way. This guy took a little water pump from a table top fountain, placed it in the bottom and ran a long hose looped in front of his rad to cool the water down. This may not be related to your specific problem. Sounds more like the hydrochloric acid produced in the process is corroding your plates a bit.
1996 F350 CC 7.3L PSD DRW, DIY 4x4 conversion, 4.10 gears, Sky 3" RSK, DIY 4" exhaust, 3" diamond eye DP, SC 1705, Stage 1 Rosewood sticks, Valair SMF, SD I/C, 37/12.50/16.5 wranglers and some more DIY stuff
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