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plug change prep

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  #16  
Old 08-11-2008, 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Oldguy4
Could someone tell me how to find this TSB? I'm interested in this plug removal problem. I only have 9K on mine so it's a long way off, but want to be educated. Would it be a good idea to loosen the plugs or remove and reinstall say once a year or so?
If i were you i'd change out your plugs RIGHT now....I did mine at 23,000 miles (or right around there) with no breakage...and very little carbon build up
 
  #17  
Old 08-11-2008, 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Ryan50hrl
If i were you i'd change out your plugs RIGHT now....I did mine at 23,000 miles (or right around there) with no breakage...and very little carbon build up
I've got right at 23K now and I really want to change to the one piece plug, I'm just afraid to tempt fate. I could see me breaking one and getting screwed...
 
  #18  
Old 08-11-2008, 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Slvr 2008 SS SC
Is this like Sea Foam
Marvels Mystery Oil is an old tyme engine cleaner/degreaser/solvent

You can add it to the gas, directly into the intake and immediately before an oil change, the oil itself.

it's basically kerosene. works really good on old engines with lots of oil gunked up inside. the mystery oil loosens it all up and then the crap drains out the bottom.

on my old trucks, I would run 1 can of the mystery oil about every 1-2 months through the gas tank. it never harmed anything. just something I learned from my dad because he did it. we also periodically ran it for about 20 miles in the oil to clean 'em out before draining

I'm scared to use it in this F-150 though. especially as Ford says specifically to not use any sort of fuel cleaner or additive
 
  #19  
Old 08-11-2008, 08:38 PM
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best of luck to the OP. how is the truck running right now? any missing or hesitation?
Originally Posted by bridge
I've got right at 23K now and I really want to change to the one piece plug, I'm just afraid to tempt fate. I could see me breaking one and getting screwed...
If it ain't broke, don't fix it...cause I guarantee it'll fix you just for trying

Really wish I could convince people to leave the plugs the h**l alone unless you are at the 100k mark. Some people sound like a popular Navy motto.
"Fix it until it's broke"
 
  #20  
Old 08-11-2008, 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Svets96
Probably could run some high test in the engine real quick. Before you back the plugs out squirt a good amount of penetrating oil inside each plug. This will practically eliminate any breakage of plugs in head. Just take your time and follow the tsb.
Have to agree thats a great idea
 
  #21  
Old 08-11-2008, 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by tylus
"Fix it until it's broke"
Funny...our folks have the same motto when it comes to the Shuttle.

It's not broke, but I figure it will be easier to change over now to a plug that will be easier to change at 100K.

I'll probably suck it up and do it when the outside temps/humidity become less oppressive and the threat of an impending hurricane subsides.
 
  #22  
Old 08-11-2008, 09:07 PM
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No kerosene in it according to the US government data sheet:

Household Products Database - Health and Safety Information on Household Products

Scroll to the bottom of the page.
 
  #23  
Old 08-11-2008, 09:12 PM
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im a bit curious here...bear with me.



the way i drive my truck, i wonder if i will ever have a problem, assuming carbon buildup is the ONLY factor here. i tend to have my right foot pressed as hard as possible to the floorboard going up steep, long grades several times a day. ALL the mustangs i have ever owned had very clean chambers when heads were pulled, even the tops of pisons were pretty nice with minimal cleanup needed.... but, on used stangs, i have had a ton of cleanup in both areas, always assumed they were not being driven like they are supposed to be??

also, a small shot of nitrous oxide i KNOW will clean chambers, but i have not seen a way to easily put a kit on for this purpose, yet!
i have 67k, and have had one replaced @ 35k due to a bad injector (go figger...) but the time is coming i will need to swap em out...
 
  #24  
Old 08-11-2008, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by FTE Ken
No kerosene in it according to the US government data sheet:

Household Products Database - Health and Safety Information on Household Products

Scroll to the bottom of the page.
, don't know what it is then. it smells just like kerosene to me. well, whatever it is, it works on older engine. it's probably caustic as hell for these newer engines and their sensors though
 
  #25  
Old 08-11-2008, 10:00 PM
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One of the ingredients is mint oil (not listed on the government site because its not a chemical in the sense that they rate its properties). That accounts for a lot of its smell when mixed with the other items. If you've ever used pure mint oil it'll strip grease off parts quickly (including drying out your hands to the point of cracking the skin). Manyl organic cleaners use mint oil. I learned this on FTE many years ago when someone supplied the breakdown sheet for MMO and a long discussion followed. MMO is a good solvent, not one of those snake oil things like Slick 50.
 
  #26  
Old 08-11-2008, 10:12 PM
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Never used the stuff myself, but according to the MSDS it's naphtha based...as are most engine/fuel treatments. Reason being it that they are cheap b/c they are generally the left overs from cracking crude. Is it clear? If so, higher fraction naphtha will smell like kerosene. If it's darker (or redish) they will tend to have a moth-ball smell. Either way you're dealing with an unknown ratio and mixture of short chain hydrocarbon...lighter is 5 to 8, darker is usually 7 to 9...essentially the same a seafoam.

It's kinda like beer. Every company uses the same main ingredients, then they add their own special adjunct to distinguish from other products on the market.
 
  #27  
Old 08-11-2008, 10:25 PM
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Its red.
 
  #28  
Old 08-12-2008, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by tylus
best of luck to the OP. how is the truck running right now? any missing or hesitation?

If it ain't broke, don't fix it...cause I guarantee it'll fix you just for trying

Really wish I could convince people to leave the plugs the h**l alone unless you are at the 100k mark. Some people sound like a popular Navy motto.
"Fix it until it's broke"


I think it's a whole lot safer to try the plugs at 23K than wait till 100K and KNOW for a fact that you'll break them.....if we went by that approach we'd not change oil cause we might strip the drain pan.....In my opinion its preventative maintanace and i'd tell EVERYONE to do them before 20K miles....
 
  #29  
Old 08-12-2008, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Svets96
Probably could run some high test in the engine real quick. Before you back the plugs out squirt a good amount of penetrating oil inside each plug. This will practically eliminate any breakage of plugs in head. Just take your time and follow the tsb.
I would get a copy of the TSB and follow it. Squirting too much Penetrant into the spark plug well could cause problems as well (hydrolock if I remember the term right). Good luck!!

John
 
  #30  
Old 08-12-2008, 10:30 PM
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This how we do it in the dealership. remove all the coils, loosen each plug from a 16th to an 8th of a turn and spray penetrating oil in the plug valley. let them sit for min. of 20 min., then alternate loosening and tightening the plugs till they come out. haven't broken one yet.
good luck.
 


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