What axle did an F-4 come with?

Here is what I can tell you. It is a full floating -Spiral Bevel gear Standard ratio was a 5.14 with an optional 5.83. I honestly tried everywhere from Sacramento to New York City to find out on my own but then just decided to post about it. I thought it was a Dana 44 but I was told that wasn't it. So is it a Dana 60-70. Here is a pick I used in an earlier thread. I don't know if anyone could identify it from this picture. It also comes apart down the center and has dually wheels. I hope that is enough info.

thanks,
Bryan

 

I am pretty sure it is not a Dana axle at all. I have owned many trucks with anything from Dana 25's to 80's axles and never have I seen one that had a bolt on nose or a center split case. Admittedly the oldest Dana axle I have is out of a 57 F100 and I may be sticking my foot in my mouth but I'd say it is not a Dana built axle.

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My Grandpa told me once that you have to learn by the mistakes of others because you will NOT live long enough to make them all yourself.

 

The chassis book lists two that were used, both Timken. It says 48-49 could have had a single speed Timken Model 53566. It also shows from 48-52 it could be a Timken Model 51524. Beyond that I'll defer to the experts on what the differences are. Stu

 

Here's a link to a site that has the different Dana cases shown. I'm guessing from what I have found it is a timken as well. I had a split case timken in my 54 ******* Overland when I first got it and could find little or no info on it so I switched it out for a Dana 70 with a detroit locker.

Axle Identification Chart

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My Grandpa told me once that you have to learn by the mistakes of others because you will NOT live long enough to make them all yourself.

 

Mine is just a single speed I don't have any other gear shifters besides the one for the tranny. Also I forgot to mention that its a 1948.

 

Well, here's a crumby exploded pic of the one labeled as a single speed. Laying the book open to take the pic isn't gonna yield a great pic, though. Maybe BobJ or one of the guys has it on CD and can post a better looking pic. Stu

 

timken all the way!!! stu, aren't your marmons sitting on timkens??

 

You bet. They are the the stock diff with adapters on the rear to take the 5 lug Budds. The front is the same with steering knuckles on uneven length axle tubes.

 

I want to know what book you have wow!!! Is that a service manual that you can buy somewhere. That definatly looks like what I have. When you say timken is that the whole rear axel made by timken or is that just the bearings. Honestly how could i get my hands on something like that.

 

I really found out alot of knowledge hereTimken Axle I learned that the timkens used tapered bearing which would allow me to tighten it to reduce some play but i know that probably wont fix my problem but im going to give it a shot if it is bad i don't think it would make it worse...

 

The axle as a whole is a Timken product. That exploded pic is from the 1948 to 1956 Parts and Accessories - Illustrations Catalog, 1964 edition. I bought it and the accompanying Text Catalog from Sacramento Vintage Ford. Others sell them too, and they show up on ebay. You'd also be wise to get the Service Manual if you don't have it. And, because some consolidation of parts happened during the years, I've got the Jan 1952 edition of the Truck Chassis Parts 1948 to 1952 Catalog. I think these are on CD, but can't say that for a fact. Stu

 

what exactly is the problem? you can get pinion seal to stop leak. is there axle play? this adjustment is simple to do. pete

 

hades bryan if it's just leaking dont worry . it'll stop once it figures it's amrked it's new territory ..... maybe as mine takes spells still , the f-100 not the f-4 . anyway they all answered ya , a lil tid bit i was informed of as i am contemplating a few changes to mine sometime , is that supposedley those timken split axles are what the old , old old , time dirt boys used to make the free floating quick changes out of for their cars . guy said if i took it out and didnt want to keep it to post it she'd be gone quick !............

 

I disconnected the drive shaft again and proceeded to tighten the nut and you would not believe it but i was able to turn it with my finger with ease so for right now it still sits but the pinion bearing still seems to be in tacked it was very loose though. it looks like i will be able to tighten it up but how do i tighten it so the runout is right. please tell me or show me how

 

it's not all that uncommon for pinion to come loose. you said you did it AGAIN. is there more to this story? as long as you didn't remove any washers or shims, you can just simply tighten nut. don't know ft. lb. specs, but would think 80-90 lbs. should suffice. just don't crush bearings. if not sure of adjustment, put full rear on jack stands and block front wheels, then put truck in lowest gear at idle ONLY!! if it's too tight, you should hear it growl. remember, SAFETY FIRST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! don't forget cotter pin-- it is absolutly nessesary!!