FlatHead Valve Spring Remover
#1
#2
There's that Ford flathead shop out in Irwindale...somewhere. I've never been there, but the phone number was listed in that throwaway phone book that last time I looked.
If you want the number, I'll see if I can find it.
Hacienda Village Meats has a stack of those phonebooks (they're free) on a rack inside the door.
#3
I got mine from Speedway
Valve Guide Removal Tool
Even with this I couldn't shift most of my valves (motor had stood for a few years)
In the end I used a OHV valve spring compressor to compress the spring, remove the valve locks and valve
I tapped a hole in a piece of 1/8" flat steel with the end rounded off so it can be pushed between the coils in the spring
I dropped a piece of studding through the valve guide, engaged the hole in the steel bar then used a slide hammer to remove the guide
You will need the removal tool to refit the guides
Good Luck
Steve
Valve Guide Removal Tool
Even with this I couldn't shift most of my valves (motor had stood for a few years)
In the end I used a OHV valve spring compressor to compress the spring, remove the valve locks and valve
I tapped a hole in a piece of 1/8" flat steel with the end rounded off so it can be pushed between the coils in the spring
I dropped a piece of studding through the valve guide, engaged the hole in the steel bar then used a slide hammer to remove the guide
You will need the removal tool to refit the guides
Good Luck
Steve
#4
jreilly57
Here is the one you need and its a good one the 30 inch on Ebay Item number: 180273522669 another one Item number: 290250755558 another Item number: 220265194678
So there available and the 30 inch one is the best for leverage. Hope this will help you out.
Also if you get a stuck Valve Guide once you have the locks at the bottom of the Valve off and the Valve itself.
Take a piece of brass stock or even a socket if you want to and give it a shot with a hammer.
Sometimes the valve springs can give you a problem if the guide is down in.
A real good too for compressing the valve springs is one that is used for small engines, its thin and has the strength to compress by a screw down handle, just make sure you have a good hold on the spring.
Here is the one you need and its a good one the 30 inch on Ebay Item number: 180273522669 another one Item number: 290250755558 another Item number: 220265194678
So there available and the 30 inch one is the best for leverage. Hope this will help you out.
Also if you get a stuck Valve Guide once you have the locks at the bottom of the Valve off and the Valve itself.
Take a piece of brass stock or even a socket if you want to and give it a shot with a hammer.
Sometimes the valve springs can give you a problem if the guide is down in.
A real good too for compressing the valve springs is one that is used for small engines, its thin and has the strength to compress by a screw down handle, just make sure you have a good hold on the spring.
#5
The above posters have real good advise, chances are the valve assemblies are not going to come out the way they went in.
Last year I bought an old flathead engine for parts (cracked block). I spent last Sunday tearing it down and took a few pictures relevant to valve removal.
Six or seven years ago I had my first experience with flatheads when I rebuilt the engine in my 50. Not being an internet user at the time or knowing anybody with flathead experience all I had to guide me was the shop manual. After several hours I had managed to get one valve assembly out and decided it was time to try a different approach.
I bought two cheap 5/8" wrenches, ground them thin and made this tool:
One of the wrenches is ground quite thin and I slip it into the spring as high up as I can get it in. The other fits underneath the spring around the cone part of the retainer:
I then raise the valve and tap it back down on a wrench to release the keepers from the cone:
Once the valve is out of the way, if I have a good bite on the spring I can slip it out below the guide:
I've not yet had a spring come flying from the tool but I think it could happen. I release the tension from the spring before removing it from the valley and wear eye protection.
Once the spring is out, the valve guide can be persuaded into the valley. I use a ½" brass pipe nipple and large persuader:
It often takes a pretty good wallop to get the guide to move. No wonder that pry bar wouldn't move it.
There have been quite a variety of tools created over the years for servicing flathead valves. Here's the best web link I have found on this subject.
Last year I bought an old flathead engine for parts (cracked block). I spent last Sunday tearing it down and took a few pictures relevant to valve removal.
Six or seven years ago I had my first experience with flatheads when I rebuilt the engine in my 50. Not being an internet user at the time or knowing anybody with flathead experience all I had to guide me was the shop manual. After several hours I had managed to get one valve assembly out and decided it was time to try a different approach.
I bought two cheap 5/8" wrenches, ground them thin and made this tool:
One of the wrenches is ground quite thin and I slip it into the spring as high up as I can get it in. The other fits underneath the spring around the cone part of the retainer:
I then raise the valve and tap it back down on a wrench to release the keepers from the cone:
Once the valve is out of the way, if I have a good bite on the spring I can slip it out below the guide:
I've not yet had a spring come flying from the tool but I think it could happen. I release the tension from the spring before removing it from the valley and wear eye protection.
Once the spring is out, the valve guide can be persuaded into the valley. I use a ½" brass pipe nipple and large persuader:
It often takes a pretty good wallop to get the guide to move. No wonder that pry bar wouldn't move it.
There have been quite a variety of tools created over the years for servicing flathead valves. Here's the best web link I have found on this subject.
Last edited by dmptrkr; 08-27-2008 at 12:44 PM. Reason: fix link
#6
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