'94 solid axle swap parts list
#18
I have a 1984 F150 2wd that we are doing the Dana 44 SAS in. I bought a donor 1978 Bronco rolling chassis and used the Dana 44, the 1978 springs with my 1984 spring cups along with the 1978 radius arms and radius arm drop brackets. I inverted the 1978 track bar (modified) and will be building a custom track bar mount. I took some preliminary measurements to center the axle and have been baffled as to why my figures are coming out so far off. To center the axle the frame has to move so far to the drivers side that the drivers coil hits the frame and the passenger coil leans tremendously. Please tell me what I am missing..... When sitting on its own the coils look fine but when you start measuring and pulling it gets crazy.........What am I missing???? Confused
#19
I have a 1984 F150 2wd that we are doing the Dana 44 SAS in. I bought a donor 1978 Bronco rolling chassis and used the Dana 44, the 1978 springs with my 1984 spring cups along with the 1978 radius arms and radius arm drop brackets. I inverted the 1978 track bar (modified) and will be building a custom track bar mount. I took some preliminary measurements to center the axle and have been baffled as to why my figures are coming out so far off. To center the axle the frame has to move so far to the drivers side that the drivers coil hits the frame and the passenger coil leans tremendously. Please tell me what I am missing..... When sitting on its own the coils look fine but when you start measuring and pulling it gets crazy.........What am I missing???? Confused
#20
Thanks for the response. I figured it out last night. I was trying to center the axle in the frame with a center line point measuring to ball joints. After some hair pulling I realized you could not use that method since there seems to be a 3" offset. All is good now. I do have to order some 4" lift (78-79) springs to get added clearance to the cross member. I really do not want to do any cutting on it if I do not have to. Any suggestions on c bushing selections with the use of 78-79 radius arm drop brackets and 84 spring pockets?? I know I have an assorted configuration.......LOL Thanks
#21
#22
ok guys i just did the SAS swop on my and bought prerty much all the gear listed some new and some old the total cost was 1150$ thats total and did the whole thing in my buddys gerage in 3 days! 1 day to rebuild the axel and 2 days for the swop. i payed 200$ for the axel "off cregslist" then went to like 2 pull and saves for the coil brackets and raduis armes got all the rest new off of bronco graveyard and local auto parts! its mostly finding the placement then after that its just drill and bolt on. The only real fab i did was i welded the track bar mount to the frame and put a big gusset from the mount to the crosmember. i love the swop it drives way better then the TTB ever did!
#24
A/O..........I have a question for you. I really enjoyed reading your thread and I admire your quality work. We have a lot in common. I used a 1978 Bronco donor vehicle for my 44 and radius arms. When I was locating the radius arm frame brackets I had read where using a factory hole as you did worked. However, mine was no where close. I had to put a notch in my transmission cross member to clear the nut and washer on my radius arm bracket rear bolt (through the lower frame lip toward the dirt). Can you tell me why mine was so different than yours? Are Bronco radius arms longer than the trucks? Please tell me something good ...LOL
#25
Thanks man.
Manfred had the exact issue youre having. The only thing I can figure is the forward body mount location is in different spots on different year/models. The 73-79 F100-150s and 66-79 Bronco radius arms are all the same length. Bottom line is center the axle in the wheel well and bolt up the mounts in whatever location that falls on the frame.
Manfred had the exact issue youre having. The only thing I can figure is the forward body mount location is in different spots on different year/models. The 73-79 F100-150s and 66-79 Bronco radius arms are all the same length. Bottom line is center the axle in the wheel well and bolt up the mounts in whatever location that falls on the frame.
#26
Alpha, I am working with a bare frame so I used the center of the spring bucket as my centerline for the axle. After reading multiple experiences with these SAS I drilled all of the rivets out and removed the 1894 buckets in preparation for the use of the 78-79 buckets. It was after doing some preliminary measuring that I determined the 84's would actually work out better than the 78-79s plus not have to worry about individual shock mounts. I made a shock mount for the driver side radius arm to be able to mount a shock for using the 1984 shock mount behind the coil. I built a bolt in track bar mount and inverted the factory track bar. After I mount the cab and fenders back on the frame and set an engine in the frame I will access the 4" lift situation and then determine how far out my factory track bar will be. Thanks for your input and if I have any more concerns I will definitely be asking you!!