Will NOT idle!
#61
Fits: 1973/74 F100 302/C4 / 1973/74 Bronco 302/C4.
No Ford dealer or obsolete parts vendor has one.
I tried the other EGR valve p/n listed for a 1973 (& 1974) F100 302/C4: D3OZ9D475A, no one has that one either.
There's still another one listed for a 1974 F100 302/C4: D4TZ9D475E.
I found two of these. What's the difference?
It uses the same gaskets and spacer plate, so the difference is internal. What that difference is, I dunno, but it's prolly slight since it fits the same application that D3BZ9D475A does.
D4TZ9D475E / greensalescompany.com has one: 800-543-4959 / Ed Bennett Ford Parts in Lebanon PA has one: 717-272-8762
Before buying it...I suggest you get an opinion from FTE member fmc400 on whether he thinks it'll work...or not.
#62
Similar carb, with minor changes...the same Motorcraft carb kit fits both the Mustang and 1963/74 Ford truck 2V's.
Same kit...I kid you not.
D4AZ9A586A .. Carb Kit (Motorcraft CT499D) D4AZ-9A586-A replaced: D2AZ-9A586-A & B / C2AZ-9A586-D)
Your truck only has the in-cab fuel tank, correct?
IF your truck has the mid-ship and/or the aft axle fuel tanks...be advised...there are fuel filters inside those tanks...on the pickup tubes of the sending units.
The in-cab tank does not have a filter on its pickup tube.
Same kit...I kid you not.
D4AZ9A586A .. Carb Kit (Motorcraft CT499D) D4AZ-9A586-A replaced: D2AZ-9A586-A & B / C2AZ-9A586-D)
Your truck only has the in-cab fuel tank, correct?
IF your truck has the mid-ship and/or the aft axle fuel tanks...be advised...there are fuel filters inside those tanks...on the pickup tubes of the sending units.
The in-cab tank does not have a filter on its pickup tube.
Ed
#63
ND: Last time the local shop did an inventory check on Sanderson Ford in AZ? It was about 6 months or so back LOL. Our own local inventories from the dealership showed several in central NY via the computer. However after a "Reality Check"? Found the inventory on all these older parts didn't match up worth a poo.
For what it's worth? I'd highly recommend Green Sales. I've have dealings with them before, and have always found their service and speed to check/verify/ship to be very decent.
S-
For what it's worth? I'd highly recommend Green Sales. I've have dealings with them before, and have always found their service and speed to check/verify/ship to be very decent.
S-
#64
ND: Last time the local shop did an inventory check on Sanderson Ford in AZ? It was about 6 months or so back LOL. Our own local inventories from the dealership showed several in central NY via the computer. However after a "Reality Check"? Found the inventory on all these older parts didn't match up worth a poo.
For what it's worth? I'd highly recommend Green Sales. I've have dealings with them before, and have always found their service and speed to check/verify/ship to be very decent.
S-
For what it's worth? I'd highly recommend Green Sales. I've have dealings with them before, and have always found their service and speed to check/verify/ship to be very decent.
S-
I used to call them 3-5 times a week, when I was working. The West LA area I worked in was loaded with old cars and trucks, and the ppl that owned them had the means to fix them...and wanted them fixed.
Even after I retired, I still called them, and I call them now...to verify they have the parts, before I post the info.
#65
This paid...err...non paid advert... LOL (Just Kidding LOL)
Actually I have the greatest respect for companies that take up the mantle for our older cars and trucks. Green Sales, NPD, Rock Auto, and Jeff's Bronco Graveyard are the current sponsors I have used with great success. It's very telling on how they treat their customers, and their service with me has been top notch.
I've been poking around for EGR valves on the usual store sites. Found quite a few near-hits. The last 3 letters on that valve seem to be making an exact match quite hard. It might have to come down to finding one that is close enough to the factory one, provided it mounts exactly the same way. Then tweak things slightly so the function is as close to factory as possible. I'd go as far to suggest replacing it, with the spacer/gaskets. And just leaving it unhooked until we get the rest of things more inline. Then once everything else is worked out? Hooking it back up and seeing how well it works, and making minor adjustments accordingly.
S-
Actually I have the greatest respect for companies that take up the mantle for our older cars and trucks. Green Sales, NPD, Rock Auto, and Jeff's Bronco Graveyard are the current sponsors I have used with great success. It's very telling on how they treat their customers, and their service with me has been top notch.
I've been poking around for EGR valves on the usual store sites. Found quite a few near-hits. The last 3 letters on that valve seem to be making an exact match quite hard. It might have to come down to finding one that is close enough to the factory one, provided it mounts exactly the same way. Then tweak things slightly so the function is as close to factory as possible. I'd go as far to suggest replacing it, with the spacer/gaskets. And just leaving it unhooked until we get the rest of things more inline. Then once everything else is worked out? Hooking it back up and seeing how well it works, and making minor adjustments accordingly.
S-
#68
#69
#70
Actually if it's packed with black crap that is rock hard? That's called good ol' Carbon deposits. (no--not the 'carbon footprint' we keep hearing about)
Over time it builds up and cakes onto any surface it comes into contact with. So I wouldn't throw the PO under the bus just yet (although I'm sure the PO was a POW (piece of work)) himself.
The actual cause is probably just over time build up, and if the truck was running just a bit to rich? That would create some extra carbon in the exhaust that would make it up to that passageway.
Sorry that I can't make a good recommendation for a cleaner. Something like this to clean out might just wind up coming down to repeated soaking in something like B12, letting it soften up..and then just about scraping it out.
S-
Over time it builds up and cakes onto any surface it comes into contact with. So I wouldn't throw the PO under the bus just yet (although I'm sure the PO was a POW (piece of work)) himself.
The actual cause is probably just over time build up, and if the truck was running just a bit to rich? That would create some extra carbon in the exhaust that would make it up to that passageway.
Sorry that I can't make a good recommendation for a cleaner. Something like this to clean out might just wind up coming down to repeated soaking in something like B12, letting it soften up..and then just about scraping it out.
S-
#73
The basic problem is that the truck will not idle after it cranks. It will stay running
if I pump the accelerator, but dies quickly if I stop.
[I] checked the vacuum hoses
The vacuum routing is pretty jacked up from the po but it's been running this way
for past 20 years. The basics are there but nothing else.
if I pump the accelerator, but dies quickly if I stop.
[I] checked the vacuum hoses
The vacuum routing is pretty jacked up from the po but it's been running this way
for past 20 years. The basics are there but nothing else.
Vacuum leaks aren't always "seen" ...just like electrical problems that way.
You need a vacuum pump to test for leaks outside of the engine.
IMO you need to get rid of that stinkin EGR.
YMMV
Alvin in AZ