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  #61  
Old 08-08-2008, 01:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brewski View Post
the EGR valve # is still very clearly visible and is D3BE-9D475-A2B with a BIG 028 at the very end.
D3BE-9D475-A2B = D3BZ9D475A .. EGRValve / Obsolete

Fits: 1973/74 F100 302/C4 / 1973/74 Bronco 302/C4.

No Ford dealer or obsolete parts vendor has one.

I tried the other EGR valve p/n listed for a 1973 (& 1974) F100 302/C4: D3OZ9D475A, no one has that one either.

There's still another one listed for a 1974 F100 302/C4: D4TZ9D475E.

I found two of these. What's the difference?

It uses the same gaskets and spacer plate, so the difference is internal. What that difference is, I dunno, but it's prolly slight since it fits the same application that D3BZ9D475A does.

D4TZ9D475E / greensalescompany.com has one: 800-543-4959 / Ed Bennett Ford Parts in Lebanon PA has one: 717-272-8762

Before buying it...I suggest you get an opinion from FTE member fmc400 on whether he thinks it'll work...or not.
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  #62  
Old 08-08-2008, 01:58 PM
FTE/PARTS-GUY FTE/PARTS-GUY is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NumberDummy View Post
Similar carb, with minor changes...the same Motorcraft carb kit fits both the Mustang and 1963/74 Ford truck 2V's.

Same kit...I kid you not.

D4AZ9A586A .. Carb Kit (Motorcraft CT499D) D4AZ-9A586-A replaced: D2AZ-9A586-A & B / C2AZ-9A586-D)

Your truck only has the in-cab fuel tank, correct?

IF your truck has the mid-ship and/or the aft axle fuel tanks...be advised...there are fuel filters inside those tanks...on the pickup tubes of the sending units.

The in-cab tank does not have a filter on its pickup tube.
i think my 77 F100 uses the same carb kit, and it needs rebuilding leaks and smells up the garage and then the whole house. I'll get the tag number so you can verify kit number. Anyone near Lake Tapps Washinton that can overhaul my carb?

Ed
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  #63  
Old 08-08-2008, 03:54 PM
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ND: Last time the local shop did an inventory check on Sanderson Ford in AZ? It was about 6 months or so back LOL. Our own local inventories from the dealership showed several in central NY via the computer. However after a "Reality Check"? Found the inventory on all these older parts didn't match up worth a poo.

For what it's worth? I'd highly recommend Green Sales. I've have dealings with them before, and have always found their service and speed to check/verify/ship to be very decent.

S-
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The old girl is as follows:

1975 Ford F250 Camper Special
Normal Cab.
Rear Wheel Drive.
360 CID.
Auto Transmission-C6
Last of the vin: W69956

New ol' girl:

1989 Ford Bronco II XLT
2.9 V6
RWD
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  #64  
Old 08-08-2008, 06:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedybear View Post
ND: Last time the local shop did an inventory check on Sanderson Ford in AZ? It was about 6 months or so back LOL. Our own local inventories from the dealership showed several in central NY via the computer. However after a "Reality Check"? Found the inventory on all these older parts didn't match up worth a poo.

For what it's worth? I'd highly recommend Green Sales. I've have dealings with them before, and have always found their service and speed to check/verify/ship to be very decent.

S-
I've been dealing with Green Sales for over 40 years, so you don't have to tell me how great they are!

I used to call them 3-5 times a week, when I was working. The West LA area I worked in was loaded with old cars and trucks, and the ppl that owned them had the means to fix them...and wanted them fixed.

Even after I retired, I still called them, and I call them now...to verify they have the parts, before I post the info.
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  #65  
Old 08-08-2008, 08:05 PM
Tedybear Tedybear is offline
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This paid...err...non paid advert... LOL (Just Kidding LOL)

Actually I have the greatest respect for companies that take up the mantle for our older cars and trucks. Green Sales, NPD, Rock Auto, and Jeff's Bronco Graveyard are the current sponsors I have used with great success. It's very telling on how they treat their customers, and their service with me has been top notch.

I've been poking around for EGR valves on the usual store sites. Found quite a few near-hits. The last 3 letters on that valve seem to be making an exact match quite hard. It might have to come down to finding one that is close enough to the factory one, provided it mounts exactly the same way. Then tweak things slightly so the function is as close to factory as possible. I'd go as far to suggest replacing it, with the spacer/gaskets. And just leaving it unhooked until we get the rest of things more inline. Then once everything else is worked out? Hooking it back up and seeing how well it works, and making minor adjustments accordingly.

S-
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The old girl is as follows:

1975 Ford F250 Camper Special
Normal Cab.
Rear Wheel Drive.
360 CID.
Auto Transmission-C6
Last of the vin: W69956

New ol' girl:

1989 Ford Bronco II XLT
2.9 V6
RWD
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  #66  
Old 08-08-2008, 11:12 PM
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So you guys don't seem to think that a new intake is in order? Those passages appear clogged to me. If the intake is clogged then the egr plate won't function will it?
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  #67  
Old 08-08-2008, 11:22 PM
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If your intake is completely clogged I would be surprised.

How the heck did you get that much krap in the EGR? Muddobbers?
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  #68  
Old 08-09-2008, 01:56 AM
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You're right that the EGR won't function with the crossover passage blocked off, but it'd be a shame to have to replace the entire intake just because of that. At the very worst you could remove it and try to remove the debris with a chemical.
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  #69  
Old 08-09-2008, 03:08 PM
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I'll try to clean it out. Muddobbers? No, likely the cavity was just backfilled with dust over the years. The po drove the truck down 1/2 mile of dirt road twice a day, every day for 33 years. Hopefully all this will result in a smooth, consistent idle.
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  #70  
Old 08-09-2008, 06:35 PM
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Actually if it's packed with black crap that is rock hard? That's called good ol' Carbon deposits. (no--not the 'carbon footprint' we keep hearing about)

Over time it builds up and cakes onto any surface it comes into contact with. So I wouldn't throw the PO under the bus just yet (although I'm sure the PO was a POW (piece of work)) himself.

The actual cause is probably just over time build up, and if the truck was running just a bit to rich? That would create some extra carbon in the exhaust that would make it up to that passageway.

Sorry that I can't make a good recommendation for a cleaner. Something like this to clean out might just wind up coming down to repeated soaking in something like B12, letting it soften up..and then just about scraping it out.

S-
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The old girl is as follows:

1975 Ford F250 Camper Special
Normal Cab.
Rear Wheel Drive.
360 CID.
Auto Transmission-C6
Last of the vin: W69956

New ol' girl:

1989 Ford Bronco II XLT
2.9 V6
RWD
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  #71  
Old 08-09-2008, 07:01 PM
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B12 usually works the best for those kinds of things.

off topic, Tedybear, congrats on number 500!
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  #72  
Old 08-09-2008, 07:14 PM
Tedybear Tedybear is offline
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Good lord...Elder user? LOL..

S-
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The old girl is as follows:

1975 Ford F250 Camper Special
Normal Cab.
Rear Wheel Drive.
360 CID.
Auto Transmission-C6
Last of the vin: W69956

New ol' girl:

1989 Ford Bronco II XLT
2.9 V6
RWD
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  #73  
Old 08-10-2008, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brewski View Post
The basic problem is that the truck will not idle after it cranks. It will stay running
if I pump the accelerator, but dies quickly if I stop.
[I] checked the vacuum hoses
The vacuum routing is pretty jacked up from the po but it's been running this way
for past 20 years. The basics are there but nothing else.
Sounds like a vacuum leak/problem to me. :)
Vacuum leaks aren't always "seen" ...just like electrical problems that way.
You need a vacuum pump to test for leaks outside of the engine.

IMO you need to get rid of that stinkin EGR.
YMMV

Alvin in AZ
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  #74  
Old 08-13-2008, 08:42 AM
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  #75  
Old 08-13-2008, 01:10 PM
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I'm still waiting on the EGR spacer plate to arrive. Should be here today or tomorrow.
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Old 08-13-2008, 01:10 PM
 
 
 
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