OK..
I've replaced the lower ball joints in the past, MOOG K8771T's. Time to do the uppers. Lots of conflicting info on whether the UCAs have to be replaced or whether just the joints can be done. UCAs are orig factories. I already have the OTC ball joint super set, a torch and access to a press if I can't do the joints on the truck.
Has anyone done the uppers with MOOG K8738's? Any issues?
I'm gonna order these if they work but I don't want to rip the truck apart and then find out they won't work and I will need the UCAs instead.
Also I'm gonna install the MOOG K80065 camber kits. Driver's side is a little out and a kit was recommended. I figured since I'll have the truck apart I'll install these kits on both sides while I'm at it and make the alignment tech happy.
I haven't done these kits before, so...
Has anyone installed the 80065 kits? Do they come with instructions? Also, I assume I'll need to order 2 kits, one for each side, or does one kit do both sides?
I wanna order everything now I'm gonna need and have it on hand so I can do it all at once and not screw with this again for a long while.
Thanks for any and all input.

 

Uhh..radio check?

 

I don't know the answer to your upper ball joint question on the 4X2 coil spring suspension, as I too got conflicting info on the uppers, so I'll be folowing this thread closely.

Anyway I've been debating using upper & lower Moog, or TRW, rather than Ford/Motorcraft, as my OEM ball joints are fine, but the rubber dust boots began to dryrot & crack 3 years ago, so I'm not very favorably impressed with Fords choice of rubber compound material for those seals.

So how are the Moog lower bj dust boots seals holding up so far????

Any particular reason you chose Moog????

 

Well, I've used Federal parts for many years, under their different names like National, Fel-Pro, etc. and have been very satisfied with their products. A little research I did shows other have had good experiences so far with Moog.
I have NOT been satified with Kragen/ Auto Zone house (store line) parts over the last 6-8 years. Seems like the quality has declined greatly.
Most of the time, I go OEM or Motorcraft now. I qualify as a fleet under my dealer's pricing schedule so I get 20%. That translates into an dealer part which oftentimes is the same or just a little more than a similar part at the auto store.
Some people hate OEM/ Motorcraft, overall I've had excellent luck with them, can't think offhand of a part I have replaced that I had to replace again due to a defect.
This time, I decided to pass on the Motorcraft because of the boot problem. Don't know if the new boots are improved, but don't want to chance it.
I s'pose TRW would be fine too, have used a lot of their parts too, but I don't know the recent status of their quality or COE on their parts.
Moog was priced decently, and I got decent deals on them (the LBJs were 31.60 ea. +no tax/free ship from Amazon), and so far so good (only been 6 months tho).
The only downsides I see are the 1 year warranty (admittedly some of the parts chains offer lifetime) and the small slit Moog puts in the boots, has a nasty tendency to ooze grease, so the bottom of the LCA (A-arm) gets splattered with grease.
Other than that, it looks to be a well built product with a good boot.
Of course on lifetime warranties, a lot of times you're getting a lifetime warranteed POS. My experiences with "lifetime" POS's soured me on a lot of Kragen's stuff. Sure it's lifetime, but if you gotta keep replacing it, it's a PITA.
My time is worth something, even if the part's "free". I got tired of replacing the same parts over and over. Went OEM and noticed a big difference in parts quality. I know I'll probably get flamed for liking OEM parts but I don't care. They've worked for me a lot better then most of the Kragen type crap.
Hope this provides some insight for you.
If I don't get any definitive responses soon on my topic soon, I'll just say screw it and take the plunge. Then I can post the straight dope anyways on what I did exactly.

 

I have a 98 Ranger 2 wheel drive (coil springs) and have replaced all four ball joints. I have 194,500 miles on my truck and expect to be replacing them again. I bought the parts at a CarQuest store and got the lifetime warranty. I replaced 3 at once and then an upper about a year later. As I recall, the only difficulty that I had was getting the old (original equipment) upper joints out. I had to heat the upper control arm with a torch before they would come out. I used a common ball joint press and did the job with the control arms left on the vehicle.

 

Here are the responses I got last year on the same question about my 99 4X2 upper & lower A arm coil spring suspension ball joint replacement.
The response from the local gararges around here have been mixed just about the same.

A couple of guys say that the uppers can be pressed out, because they've done it!!!!

I think most gararges are confused about the two different suspensions on the Ranger.

Anyway here is a link to my last years question on the subject & the replies I recieved.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...ll-joints.html

Let us know how it goes.

 

Yep, P, I saw that thread before...just wondering why the reviews and experiences are so mixed.
I'm gonna go ahead and order what I need. I'm gonna go with the K8738's and see how it goes. I'm gonna do the 80065 kits too. Something new for me, but the experience to be gained is worth the potential headaches.
Thanks Paw and Dan for the responses, I will be sure to post my results. Hopefully I will be able to put a rest to the conflicting info on this topic already.

 

Forgot to add...
For info, at the time I did the LBJ's, I had gotten 132K out of the factory BJ's/ control arms.
The only reason I'm doing the uppers now is because the damn factory boots on the lower BJ's failed previously (about 6 mo. ago). The UBJ's themselves are still OK (tight and servicable) tho. Even when I did the LBJ's, they were OK except for the boots.
Even tho the upper UCA boots/ BJ's are still OK, I figure the boots will go soon since the lowers went, and I'll do them now before prices go up, and I have the time right now to do them. They do have 10 years/ 135K on them now. Plus I need the camber kit for the left anyways. I could probably let them go for now, but I'd rather do them now than most likely have to do them soon anyways.
Like I said, I usually like OEM parts, but I didn't want to take a chance on boot failure again, and Moog looked good to me. So there you have it, FWIW.

 

Forgot to update this...
All parts I purchased, along with the camber kits, went in no problems. Shop reset the alignment to factory specs, no problems.
So, if you're doing your Ranger coil front end, check out the above.

An unrelated story, but of interest to those who have AIG, or who want OEM replacement parts on their vehicles after a collision...
Two weeks after I did the front end, I hit a buck while going about 55-60 mph.Took out the left headlight assy, hood, left fender, and driver's door (buck spun around from the impact and his a$$ hit the driver's door). $3500 worth of damage, AIG wanted to total my truck out, but they agreed to fix only with crap overseas parts and used parts. They would not use OEM. I wound up buying OEM parts myself (I get a fleet discount) and my buddy, a bodyman, and his co-worker painter fixed 'er up like new.
After the hassles with AIG I dumped them and went with Allied (Nationwide). Saved money too.

So, if you have AIG- be aware, they will try to screw you by using overseas crap and used, instead of new. If fact, a lot of companies are doing that now.
If OEM fixes are important to you, make sure your company will allow OEM to be used, or purchase an OEM rider on your insurance if its available.
Don't be surprised and have to be out of pocket to buy OEM after a collision!

 

Similar encounter with AIG.