AHHHH it all makes sense now. =)

Thanks for clearing that up Brian. I'm getting antsy to get this wrapped up enough so that I can drive her around. Other then this and wheels/tires that's about it. The owner before me had 15"s up front with passenger tires and 14's in back with passenger tires. Such a crap setup. I now have 15"s for the front and 16's for the rear. Powdercoated red with the chrome caps and beauty rings. So close.. so close.

Mid 50 is where a TON of my parts have come from. Nice to know they are represented on this site!


BTW.. I have uploaded new pics into my gallery about the truck in question. It's listed under Summer 08.

 

I'm at a loss here. I just got the part today and the instructions say to hook it into the existing brake leads. I'm not great with electrical but I'm not sure where I'm supposed to hook this up too. There is only two wires which is good but so many options of where to attach it too!!!

HELP PLEASE!

 

The position of the pressure switch shouldn't matter. If you have an air bubble in your brake line, you either have a leak or it hasn't been properly bled.

 

Start at the headlight sw. at the "R" post, wire should be red but ?
Coming from the R post the wire should go into the harness and come out of the firewall and hanging down by the steering column/box then hook into the harness that goes back to the lights. You can go from that spot to your new switch. There is another wire that should be coming out of the tail light harness in the same group, it should also be red, that goes to the other side of the switch. Now you have to put the 2 wires that are down by the master cylinder together. This assumes you have a pretty much stock harness set up.
If not, locate your brake light wire coming from the tail lights before it goes into the turn signal switch and run it into the new switch then back out of the switch. wire-switch-wire or Brake lights-switch-turnsignal.
It then goes into the turn signal switch which will override the brake light if activated.
If this , give me a call monday and I try to help. Good luck, Sy

 

ooopps, did you mean where to attach the switch???? put it on the floorboard where the brake arm will hit the activating arm, adjust the screw to adjust the arm. Hope this helps. Sy

 

THANKS...I'm going to post some pics of the spaghetti that is my wiring. PREVIOUS owner to thank for this. There are a few places where the wires are patched into a different colored set which makes it harder. But.. from the taillights three black wires go back to the harness. Two of these are spliced into orange/red wires. I'll let the pics to the talking.

 

Your wiring certainly is interesting.

Mine has been replaced as well...and it was not a kit!

So far...everything is where it is supposed to be...just can't trust any of the colors.

I keep a multimeter around. In fact...it resides in the glove box. LOL

 

I bled the brakes several times and the only way the light would come on was to mash the pedal hard all the way to the floor. The switch sat almost perfectly upright with the threaded portion on the bottom screwed into a brass fitting. Maybe I was tripping but, it seems like when I rotated the fitting so the switch was on the bottom and the fluid was allowed to drip into the space in the switch it started working. Kind of like there was a bubble that was caught in the body of the switch that never would clear otherwise and because air compresses differently than fluid it wouldn't activate the switch until there was a lot of pressure.

Aside from that the truck stopped just fine. It was 22 years ago and is moot now.

 

I bled the brakes several times and the only way the light would come on was to mash the pedal hard all the way to the floor. The switch sat almost perfectly upright with the threaded portion on the bottom screwed into a brass fitting. Maybe I was tripping but, it seems like when I rotated the fitting so the switch was on the bottom and the fluid was allowed to drip into the space in the switch it started working. Kind of like there was a bubble that was caught in the body of the switch that never would clear otherwise and because air compresses differently than fluid it wouldn't activate the switch until there was a lot of pressure.

Aside from that the truck stopped just fine. It was 22 years ago and is moot now.

 

Yes, if by interesting you mean gawd awful. Trust me it's on the to do list but down the line. I'm close...I mean the lights all work A-ok.. minus those darn brakes! Ehh who needs them.

 

BRAKES WORK!

Thanks everyone for the tips and Sy for the continued follow up. It was tricky to find the right wires and then I thought it was backwards. I called my Dad over and said "Pops, can you help me.. I'm stuck". He looked it over and said..."This wire goes here, and we'll mount the switch here" then it worked.

I also put on new wheels and tires and did some detail work.

Pics soon...

 

So glad things worked out. Joe, I am a little concerned about something I noticed in the 4th picture down of the brake arm. Perhaps it is just the picture but you might take a look. The arm looks like it is going to hit the brake line. There should be an arm bumper in there for it to hit but this is also a sharp edge type brake arm and if it hits that line........ Anyway, better safe than sorry. Dad's are great at fixing this old stuff!!! We may not be able to work cell phones but we got stuff that needs a wrench and screw driver down pat !! Again, glad it worked out, maybe Pop's will help you rewire that birds nest :>

 

Yeah as much as he doesn't like working on cars when I asked for the help he figured it out in seconds. Sigh...I'll get there someday! haha

I checked the picture in question and it's definitely the angle of the picture. I'm sure I can add a bumper? or something to make it safer but the line is definitely out of the way and doesn't touch the brake arm.