mOROTBREATH, I sent you this becuase it's more relative to your thread. Bobs F100 Parts, type up Bobsf100@aol.com, phone 951-681-1956. Keep in mind my carb. was an original and it was an exchange for an identical carb. So, I hope your finding the cause of your engine problems and motor is not fatal. You might ask Bob if he's got a 223 ? as ALBUQ F-1 said, many have swapped out their 6 cylinders and I know Bobs into doing this for customers. He can get pricey on stuff but Riverside is maybe 50-60 miles from Bakersfield. Good Luck

 

mOROTBREATH, try typing up Bobsf100@aol for Bob's F-100 Parts. He may even have a 223 if yours is fatal

 

yeah, alright. I know it may sound wierd, but if all ells fails, I might ask him if I could send my carb through the mail to save the gas of driving all that way.

The carb I have is also the original(that I know of). Unfortunately, I can't find the extra carb I have, but If I do, I might trade that one in.

Thank you very much for the info, I'll try and get to that ASAP, but I have a long way to go before ,my carb is gonna come in.

Sorry to change the subject, but my dad did a lot of work on this exact engine about 30 years ago(valve job, checked oil pump to see if it was broken, rebuilt carb,ect.) and any ways, he said that getting the oil pan off while trying to get the gasket to stay is really hard, cuase he did it with the engine in too. I havent started yet, but is there any tricks I could use to help make the procedure easier?

Thank you very much.

 

Getting the oil pan off is going to be abit of a pain. First jack the front end up with a floorjack giving yourself room to crawl under it. Then put some jackstands under the front axle, I'd also put some wedges under rear tires just to make sure that truck doesn;t have a chance of falling. If your truck has the original exhaust system the pipe from exhaust manifold will curl under the oil pan to the opposite side. The easiest way is remove the two studs that bolt the pipe to the exhaust manifold, this could be really "fun" so I'd soak these bolts with liquid wrench and /or 3 in 1 oil. Once you seperate the pipe to manifold you MIGHT have enough room to allow the pan to come off. If you don't have enough room you will have to unbolt a muffler/tail pipe hanger allowing that exhaust system to drop. Pulling the oil pan is simple, it's getting that exhaust system out of the way is the pain.

 

Going back to the beginning: I find it strange that you would find antifreeze settled in the bottom of the oil pan. In my experience any time antifreeze got into the oil the two combined to produce a liquid that resembled chocolate milk, they did not form separate layers.

 

AX- I've had the problem like you explained also. Maybe this helps. If the engine is running, then the oil and water/ antifreeze mix together and cause the oil to look similar to chocolate milk. I've had oil drained from my pan and the antifreeze was separate from the oil. The antifreeze will sit on top of the oil and is visible from the dipstick. In my case, it was because I just replaced the intake manifold gasket and antifreeze went down into the oil ports and to the pan. Had I run the engine for a while, the oil would become milky. Just for info, oil and water/antifreeze, cause the oil to become very abrasive and acidic, which does a real number on the crank and cam bearings.

 

Oil should float on water or antifreeze. Even if the two get mixed, after a couple of hours they'll separate.

Morot, I think you'll find it easier to remove the pan if you jack up by the frame, not the axle, so the axle is lower down from the engine. That's the only way I can get the pan off my flatty. Of course you can jack on the axle and put stands under the frame, then lower the axle.

 

the truck has been blocked up on the axels for 7 years, and it isn't super stable, so we coincidentally were going to re-jack up the front end by the frame, and now that it makes the procedure easier, thats all the more reason.

I drained the radiator and nothin but nice clean antifreeze came out so That must mean he breach of antifreeze must have been AFTER we stopped running it; so the last time it ran, it was fine.

I have to take off the IM to swap the good IM i have, so the whole dismantelment of the exhast is gonna have to happen anyways.

I should start the whole procedure tomorrow and of course will keep posted as I can guarantee you all, I'm gonna be needing more help the further I go with this whole engine.

Thank you very much.

 

The references to antifreeze getting into the engine from a bad intake manifold gasket must be on V8's, I don't see how there would be antifreeze in the IM of a straight 6?

Did you try the cooling system pressure tester?

 

I got my Auto Restorer Mag today, and funny, there is a letter to the editor about antifreeze in the oil pan.. editor said head gasket or cracked block..

Sam

 

I’ll try again. Without having to take anything apart you can find out if you have an internal leak by doing a cylinder leak down test. By putting about 90 psi air pressure via a hose spark plug adaptor with the rad full, and with both engine valves closed (tdc) if there is a coolant leak in the compression chamber the radiator will look like old faithful as the compressed air pushes the coolant out. A compression test will not do this.

 

Albuq: I'm gonna try the pressure test later today or tomorrow when I take the oil pan off. Someone said the coolant should leak down into the crack case of there is a leaking in a certain part of the engine.

sdetweil: wow, thats crazy(and awsome). but at the same time that's a downer. Thanks for the info.

Old F1: how would I pressure up the cylinders to 90psi and know thats what psi it's at? Is that the same tool as a compression tester? How much are they, or where can I rent one?


Thank you very much.

 

set your compressor control to 90psi

Sam

 

Old F1 is correct, a cylinder leak down test should tell you alot. I remember when I got my truck the 223 motor had water in oil pan. I figured a rebuild for future. I initally drained oil, pulled pan and found the heavy chocolate(oil and water). I cleaned pan, the entire oil pump and put in new oil with about 3/4 quart of automatic trans. fluid to clean engine out. Ran it several hours and drained it after the motor cooled down. Ooohhh yea it cleaned it out! The engine ran fair for awhile after all of this and then I started to hear noises. We pulled motor for a rebuild and found head gasket was totally shot. After hot tanking of motor and head the machine shop said block and head were actually in good shape. Machine shop guy said 223 motors were damn tough. Rebuilt engine is back in truck and runs great so hopefuly you may be lucky in the long run.......

 

I made my own leakdown tester using an inexpensive regulator and gauge, and the hose from my compression tester.



Follow the directions in the link that Old F1 posted.