hydro assist for dummies

[oneofakind97]

i'm planning on taking the advice of some of you guys on here before i step up to 44" ground hawgs. i wanna run some hydro assist on my truck. i'd liek to find out if anyone is offering a direct bolt up kit (97 f350) or do i have to do alot of fab work. i now have a close friend that is helping me with alot of my fab work/expensive tool needs, so that part doesnt scare me as much as it used to. i had found a kit by googling, but all it included was a ram, 2 lines, 4 mounting tabs and 2 bolts. now do i use the ram to connect to the existing tie rods, or do i use the ram as a center and them connect 2 tie rod ends to it, running to the spindles? i havent gotten to measure it yet, but it looks like i have about 7-8" between my axle tube and me tie rod. if someone can break it down for me, i'd really appreciate it. thanks.

[uncle.stosh]

Not trying to be a jerk but if you are asking all of those questions, then you are not ready for a hydro setup.

Search, read, read some more, read even more until your brain hurts and then pay someone to do it for you.

It is not for the faint of heart and requires considerable fabrication skills and machining.

[STGFordCrazy04]

The one thing I cant help you with (no experience) is the steering box. You might contact redneck ram hydraulic steering assist for steering box info. They can sell you a complete set ready to go or tap your box for you.

You will want to beef your current tie rod and drag link to handle the stress. Im using 1.5 .250 DOM with chebby 1ton TREs. You will also need to buy a 1.5x8" stroke hydraulic ram and 2 mounts. Most use the weld on D ring mounts for a pretty easy setup. Ive seen several guys buy the thick 3/8 plate diff cover with the 1/2" center plate to weld the axle side mount to. I wouldnt weld the mount directly to the tie rod. Some companys sell clamp on style doo-hickeys (highly technical term used only by professionals) to weld the mounts to. This gives adjustability. Give me a few minutes and Ill post some links to the parts Im talking about.

[ibleedblue1385]

I think:

Search, read, read some more, read even more until your brain hurts and then DO IT YOURSELF... sounds better.

[STGFordCrazy04]

You can also search pirate. I said search not post but these links will help.

OD Tube Clamp

Heavy Duty Clevis / D-ring Tab

maybe this
http://www.diy4x.com/images/rammount.JPG

but Id prefer this. Get the one with the 1/2" plate center strip
Great Lake Offroad, LLC ~ extrme duty diff covers

[mark a.]

1 1/2" doesn't do a hole lot of good with my 42's ( but it's better than nothing ) When I talked to Red Neck they said any bigger tire than 36's should use a 1 3/4" bore.

[STGFordCrazy04]

yeah but its sooooo slow around mall parking lots from what I understand.

[quadzjr]

Originally Posted by uncle.stosh

It is not for the faint of heart and requires considerable fabrication skills and machining.

What the hell?

NO IT DOESN'T.........weld two tabs too your axle, the other two go to the tie rod, drill and tap your steering box, run the hydro lines and your done.........

[RawPower]

Originally Posted by uncle.stosh

It is not for the faint of heart and requires considerable fabrication skills and machining.

Umm... haha I STRONGLY disagree. This is one of the easiest projects I've done to my truck, other than swapping leaf springs or something stupid like that.

Dude, you can do this yourself- and easily too. Read this:

Tapping Steering Gear Box for Hydraulic Assist Lines (PICS) + ram/hose install - FSB Forums

Edit:
West Texas Offroad sells complete kits if you don't want to do it yourself.

[ibleedblue1385]

Thanks for that link RawPower. It could come in useful.

[RawPower]

Originally Posted by ibleedblue1385

Thanks for that link RawPower. It could come in useful.

Yeah, its a great link. It's the best hydro-assist write-up I've ever seen.

[Ronin4x4]

Originally Posted by uncle.stosh

It is not for the faint of heart and requires considerable fabrication skills and machining.

What!?! This is a very easy mod to do

[my79f]

last time i was out at katemacy here in texas i talked to the guy who owns redneck ram, and iirc he said send your box in to get rebuilt/tapped, pay $500 and you also get the proper ram, and hoses sent back to you to complete the setup. this is not a very hard project to take on. if you have a friend that can weld, and you know how to bolt on a PS box, then its cake.

also you could piece together your own system with a tractor supply ram, and and tap your own box. then you could go to a parts shop and have some hydro lines made up, that would probably run you around$200-$250.

[fishmanndotcom]

its cake man... anyone can do it. i've done it to several trucks (including 2 of my own) and will be happy to answer more specific questions.

if i were you i would buy 1.5" or 1.75" ram from Burden Sales Surplus Center - Hydraulics, Engines, Electrical and More and then get your lines made from a local hydro shop. i went one step further on a couple of builds and bought the reuasble fittings and hose compatible with them so if i needed to repair something on the trail i could. drilling and tapping ford boxes is so easy i am surprised more people havent tried it! if you can slide the piston out without losing all the ball bearings you can do this pretty easy.

one note on the size of the lines just from exeperience, go with at least 3/8". repsonse time is much faster with large hoses and fittings (although one fitting on the box cannot be larger than 1/4"!)

-cutts-

[mark a.]

I'm getting rid of the AN fittings & hoses & getting regular hydraulic hoses made up. The AN fittings seep a little.
Fish, I'm wondering if going 3/8" would do any good for me cause my ram has 1/4" fittings welded on so it's still necked down at the fittings. Any thoughts ?