This happened to me, FPDM went and took out my fuel pump. My truck was at the dealership for almost 2 weeks, before it was done I had a new FPDM, fuel pump and PCM. They all had been fried.

 

OUCH!!!!!!

How many miles? Any particular reason?

 

Would like to know how many of you guys & gals have check the fuel pump driver & what the condition of your driver is in? Please post results so we can see if this is going to be a problem like the spark plugs. Ive read some problems its caused already. Any solutions besides painting let us know I was wondering if a neoprene dip on the bottom would be better than paint?

 

my truck 52k when it happened and i live in maine so i assume it was from the road salt and calcium chloride they use on the road. The location of the unit is a big factor as well.

 

I do believe mine is coming in the shop and gonna take a look at this. Would it be considered under warranty?? i am going to take mine off and look at it first and see but..

 

Since I had to rotate my tires anyway, I pulled my FPDM for S&G It looks to be in perfect shape, the plastic cover is sealed to the metal and everything looks good. Not a single sign of corrosion. This is on a 2005 F150 Screw 4x4 with about 23k miles on it. Of course this is mostly worthless to most of you anyway since I live in the desert SW and never see much road salt or moisture anyway. But just FYI.

 

mine was covered under my extended warranty.

 

Anybody else check out their fuel driver lately or is just a few of us having the corrosion problem on this?

 

as i'm only on my 4th day of ownership, i haven't had a chance to look around...

 

Glad I live in the desert.

 

I just plulled the spare tire down to check the air pressure and clean up the rim, after that was done I decided to check the "Fuel Pump Drive Module", well mine was coroded really bad, white crusty powder caked on the back of module, had to scrape most of it off and used a wire brush to get the rest, plastic cover was in tact and sealed to the aluminum housing, but the aluminum housing was eroded in back where it touches the steel crossmember, if I left it alone it would probably last a couple years more........

I had some POR-15 black paint left over from another project so that is what I used, that baby is now all covered up with two coats of paint also painted the crossmember where it bolt up to.

Thanks for the information, I would never known about this problem if it wasn't for this forum..........

Thanks
Ulf

 

see, now's when you click on the "become a supporter" button because FTE just saved you a costly repair down the road...

 

I will try an check soon and post my findings. This is new stuff to an old ford man!

 

I know this is an old thread but thought I should say something about my experience today.
I am working on a 2008 F150 with a 4.6L engine. The complaint was a no start and was towed in. scanned for codes and had no codes in any of the modules. Checked fuel pressure and had none. Fuel pump was not working. I followed a diag chart from Mitchell and was led to changing the fuel pump module at a cost of several hundred dollars. After fighting with it for several hours, got it back together and you guessed it-no start. At this point I wanted to start cusiing and throwing tools but I did n't. I just thought I had missed something. Mitchell had missed something. I had checked the fuel pump driver module and I had power and ground where the chart wanted me to check. I also had power and ground at the fuel pump so the chart is correct, time to change out the pump-right? wrong. I found this thread as well as a couple of others talking about corrosion on the back side of driver module. I pulled the module from the cross member and lo and behold, it is corroded so bad that there are holes in it and it smells like burnt electronics. How I have power going through and had power at the pump but no pump working is because of the driver's function of controlling duty cycle. The bottom line is if you have one of these trucks not starting because fuel pump isn't working, make sure you pull this fuel pump driver module which is bolted above the spare tire. Take it off and look at back side. You want to know the kicker, I put power and ground to just the pump in the old fuel pump module and it runs. I'd like to say that the pump could be reused but because of undercoating I had to cut the plastic connectors on the pump itself so I could get tank out of the way. Then I could clean all the coating off and get the small tips out of the hose quick connectors. and the electrical connector is bad on the pump module as well but I might have been able to save it. Feels like a Monday.

 

The fuel pump driver module is located on the crossmember above the spare tire. The mounting surface isn't flat and when the module is tightened down it stresses the module and can make it crack. I used a short stack of copper washers under each of the mounting screws to space it out enough to get away from the uneven surface.
The back is aluminum and can corrode really, really bad.