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Old 07-14-2008, 05:43 PM
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Coolant leak ?s

I just noticed a green stuff around the base of the thermostat housing, without to see any clear leak, but I suppose its there. The wheep hole of the water pump is ok, no leaks there. no any loose in the coolant tank.
Questions:
1.- I just have to change the o-ring there or use also black RTV?
2.- should I also change the housing?
3.- Are a billet aluminun thermostat housing for OBS
4.- upgrade to 203*T?.
5.- where is the best place to get thouse parts?
6.- What size are the bolts for the housing?
7.- Any tips?

I have read that the thicknes of the o-ring could have differences between some differentes parts stores, is that true?

Thanks for any input.
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DIY intake-exhaust brake. DP 3-3.5" ceramic coated; HPX; GPR switch; Isspro gauges; shim FPR; tranny cooler; CCV mod; 4" SS exhaust; SS 5" tip; no cat; RacerX VB; TW 6p chip; 203*;140IDM.


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Old 07-14-2008, 05:54 PM
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If your taking it apart, I'd opt to go for the 203 housing.

Dieselsite is the only place that offers that housing =
http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?...ROD&ProdID=186

To my knowledge the billet is only for the Superduties.. If the housing is not rusty, I wouldn't change it.

I've always used permatex on the thermostate gasket. Some say you don't need it, but I like the added comfort.

It's not that hard of a job. Just don't break any bolts off and you wil be fine. The top of the "triangle" bolt can be a little tricky since it's a little tight.

Gasket thickness may very, if you get the 203 it will come with a good gasket.
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Old 07-14-2008, 06:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FARM69 View Post
If your taking it apart, I'd opt to go for the 203 housing.

Dieselsite is the only place that offers that housing =
http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?...ROD&ProdID=186

To my knowledge the billet is only for the Superduties.. If the housing is not rusty, I wouldn't change it.

I've always used permatex on the thermostate gasket. Some say you don't need it, but I like the added comfort.

It's not that hard of a job. Just don't break any bolts off and you wil be fine. The top of the "triangle" bolt can be a little tricky since it's a little tight.

Gasket thickness may very, if you get the 203 it will come with a good gasket.
Thanks Farm for you advices, but when you said that Dieselsite is the olny that offers that housing, you mean Thermostat (203*), right?
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96 F250, PSD, XLT, SC, SB, E40D, 2WD, 3.55, 143K.
DIY intake-exhaust brake. DP 3-3.5" ceramic coated; HPX; GPR switch; Isspro gauges; shim FPR; tranny cooler; CCV mod; 4" SS exhaust; SS 5" tip; no cat; RacerX VB; TW 6p chip; 203*;140IDM.


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Old 07-14-2008, 07:28 PM
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Sorry, yep
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Old 07-14-2008, 07:39 PM
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Farm is right on.
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Old 07-14-2008, 07:59 PM
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Question

Thanks a lot folks. Any idea about of the size of the bolts?
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DIY intake-exhaust brake. DP 3-3.5" ceramic coated; HPX; GPR switch; Isspro gauges; shim FPR; tranny cooler; CCV mod; 4" SS exhaust; SS 5" tip; no cat; RacerX VB; TW 6p chip; 203*;140IDM.


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Old 07-14-2008, 08:10 PM
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I think they are 6mm but I can't remember for sure and I have no idea what thread pitch they are. might even be 4mm. 1.0 or 1.25 pitch MAYBE

Before you remove them take a punch or long extension and set it on the head of the bolt and smack the punch with a hammer. Do that to all three bolts. that give them a little shock treatment to break the corrosion loose a little.
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Old 07-14-2008, 08:19 PM
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Quote:
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I think they are 6mm but I can't remember for sure and I have no idea what thread pitch they are. might even be 4mm. 1.0 or 1.25 pitch MAYBE

Before you remove them take a punch or long extension and set it on the head of the bolt and smack the punch with a hammer. Do that to all three bolts. that give them a little shock treatment to break the corrosion loose a little.
Ok, thanks for the tip. Im going to check that size when I do the work, but first I have to order the parts, and it takes about 2-3 weeks to come to my door, so be patient
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96 F250, PSD, XLT, SC, SB, E40D, 2WD, 3.55, 143K.
DIY intake-exhaust brake. DP 3-3.5" ceramic coated; HPX; GPR switch; Isspro gauges; shim FPR; tranny cooler; CCV mod; 4" SS exhaust; SS 5" tip; no cat; RacerX VB; TW 6p chip; 203*;140IDM.


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Old 07-14-2008, 08:20 PM
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6mm sounds about right. They are definitely metric though.
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4" Straight / 6637 / CCV / 203 Stat
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Old 11-20-2009, 07:50 PM
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Arrow

UPDATE:
WOW time passes quickly, more than a year.
Lately the leak has been more noticeable and I want to fix it and Im going to follow the tips written above. I already have the 203* t. and the new neck.

My question is if I have to empty some quantity of coolant from the radiator before make the change or what?.

And now any body has or knows the pitch of the 6 mm bolts?
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DIY intake-exhaust brake. DP 3-3.5" ceramic coated; HPX; GPR switch; Isspro gauges; shim FPR; tranny cooler; CCV mod; 4" SS exhaust; SS 5" tip; no cat; RacerX VB; TW 6p chip; 203*;140IDM.


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Old 11-20-2009, 08:02 PM
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oreilleys carries a stant thermostat that is the proper one and is 203 degrees for these trucks. They also have a replacement thermostat housing. I've bought about 10 of them so far and all but one I had to go over the weld with my mig welder. The first one had pin holes that I thought wouldn't leak but they did. After that I reweld all of them if I see any kind of pit in the weld. They are much thicker steel than fords and last a lot longer. Just make sure no pits in teh weld when you get it. Murrey makes them in china for oreilleys.
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Old 11-20-2009, 08:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RRranch View Post
oreilleys carries a stant thermostat that is the proper one and is 203 degrees for these trucks. They also have a replacement thermostat housing. I've bought about 10 of them so far and all but one I had to go over the weld with my mig welder. The first one had pin holes that I thought wouldn't leak but they did. After that I reweld all of them if I see any kind of pit in the weld. They are much thicker steel than fords and last a lot longer. Just make sure no pits in teh weld when you get it. Murrey makes them in china for oreilleys.
Thank you RR. I hope that the housing I already have, dont have any issues with the weld.
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DIY intake-exhaust brake. DP 3-3.5" ceramic coated; HPX; GPR switch; Isspro gauges; shim FPR; tranny cooler; CCV mod; 4" SS exhaust; SS 5" tip; no cat; RacerX VB; TW 6p chip; 203*;140IDM.


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Old 11-20-2009, 08:27 PM
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You will have to drain some coolant. Maybe a gallon or a gallon and a half IIRC. Refill back up to the level of the thermostat before installing it. I wish I had written down that thread pitch and bolt size but it's a 5mm allen head IIRC. I don't remember there being more than one pitch when I got mine but who knows.
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Old 11-20-2009, 08:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pjwoolw View Post
You will have to drain some coolant. Maybe a gallon or a gallon and a half IIRC. Refill back up to the level of the thermostat before installing it. I wish I had written down that thread pitch and bolt size but it's a 5mm allen head IIRC. I don't remember there being more than one pitch when I got mine but who knows.

Ok, Pete, thats what I wanted to know, because in one manual says:
1.- Partially drain the cooling system.
But how much?. So thanks. And so the bolts are 5mm not 6mm? or is just the allen size 5mm head of a 6 mm bolt?
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DIY intake-exhaust brake. DP 3-3.5" ceramic coated; HPX; GPR switch; Isspro gauges; shim FPR; tranny cooler; CCV mod; 4" SS exhaust; SS 5" tip; no cat; RacerX VB; TW 6p chip; 203*;140IDM.


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Old 11-21-2009, 05:17 PM
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5MM allen head. Could be a 6mm bolt.
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