I know a guy that is claiming close to 400hp, but I've never seen the dyno sheet. He has milled pistons and an ATS Turbo, intercooler, some kind of injection pump he ordered and paid $1000 for, and other stuff thats just nuts.
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1997 F250 Crew Cab 4x4
1988 F350 7.3 Crew Cab 4x4 Dually C6 w/ GearVendors Overdrive currently in a deep sleep until motor overhaul is finished. 1984 F250 2 wheel drive 6.9 Extended cab 4 spd manual. (3) 1976 F250 Reg Cab 4x4 All 390, two C6 and one 4 spd.
Seriously though I think you could get close to 400 with the right combo of IP, turbo, intercooler, comp. ratio and boost. It'd better have a solid bottom end (basically stock in these motors) and good head gasket and studs, maybe fire-ringed too.
Different animal but there's a guy running 11:1 comp., 95-105 Lbs. of boost and getting 1,300 + HP out of his Cummins so I think it would be possible to go 350-400 on an IDI.
Dave's probably got a pretty good guess on what his is doing, if he'll say.
Here we go again...if...and thats a big if, could do, what Dave S did to his 6.9 at a no matter what the cost...then you would have an IDI that has some kick ass HP!!
I am not on here to rip any one who choices to rebuild their IDI....my suggestion to you is to speak to the Diesel Shops who rebuild ALL makes and models of Diesel engines...listen to what they have to say and make your own opinion of which way to go!
If you look at my sig...you will see which way I went...I'm very happy with the out come...tons of HP...great MPG....but between me and the guy I bought the truck from...I have over $35,000.00 in reciepts over the last 6 years...thats just stupid...boys and their toys!!
Here we go again...if...and thats a big if, could do, what Dave S did to his 6.9 at a no matter what the cost...then you would have an IDI that has some kick ass HP!!
I am not on here to rip any one who choices to rebuild their IDI....my suggestion to you is to speak to the Diesel Shops who rebuild ALL makes and models of Diesel engines...listen to what they have to say and make your own opinion of which way to go!
If you look at my sig...you will see which way I went...I'm very happy with the out come...tons of HP...great MPG....but between me and the guy I bought the truck from...I have over $35,000.00 in reciepts over the last 6 years...thats just stupid...boys and their toys!!
I don't think it's stupid if you got what you wanted. Especially if you keep it "forever".
There are very few people/shops in the know who won't admit that a Cummins is the best/cheapest/smartest engine to build-up. Some brand loyal guys are willing to spend a lot more money to try to beat the Cummins. Those guys need to keep in mind that it's an engine brand not a Dodge motor.
I think he is leaving out critical, need to know information!!! Please share with us!!
Just go over to your friends house, ask a few questions and go from there. How much boost and what internal modes has he done so far. Is he using anything else along with the diesel. Did he do anything to his injection pump and what injector code. How credible was the place that dyno'ed his truck and has he ran it more than once. I think Im only putting out 260 and stock i think is only 175 so another 225 hp would be neet. Also, What rpm is he at when he made the 385 hp on the dyno sheet and do you know his torque was? Sorry about all the questions but now im very interested.
well i talked to him and the max hp was at 3200rpm and the torque was 550 and boost was something like 20psi
OK, THE TORQUE IS TOTALLY BELEIVABLE. I have not ran 20 lbs yet but Once i get studded i probably will. The 385 at 3200 sounds a bit high but I guess I won't know untill I stud and dyno mine. I am looking for a dyno in my area. The closest one I have found is almost 1 hour away and over $100. Im going to do It i just don;t know when. I only need $85 more to do it. Got rearended in the jeep yesterday by a car. Didn't do much damage to mine at all since its already beat up pritty bad and I have a large reciver on it so I told the guy not to worry about it if he didn't care and gave me $15. So Now Im at $15 a hit. My brother also got hit in his driveway yesterday in his crew cab dodge. Bent the bed a little but when that scion cought the rear bumper and like a can-opener riped the door panel, fender, headlight and front bumper off. Man them cars don't hold up very well. Almost scary. Didn't even bend the stock truck bumper but nearly totaled the car.
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LOADED LIKE A FRIGHT TRAIN, FLYING LIKE A JET PLANE.
1993 Ford Mega cab long bed dually diesel 7.3 IDI w/Banks sidewinder Kit, e40d w/4:10s
1995 chevy K1500 4x4 350 4l60e
1990 suzuki sidekick 4x4
OK, THE TORQUE IS TOTALLY BELEIVABLE. I have not ran 20 lbs yet but Once i get studded i probably will. The 385 at 3200 sounds a bit high but I guess I won't know untill I stud and dyno mine. I am looking for a dyno in my area. The closest one I have found is almost 1 hour away and over $100. Im going to do It i just don;t know when. I only need $85 more to do it. Got rearended in the jeep yesterday by a car. Didn't do much damage to mine at all since its already beat up pritty bad and I have a large reciver on it so I told the guy not to worry about it if he didn't care and gave me $15. So Now Im at $15 a hit. My brother also got hit in his driveway yesterday in his crew cab dodge. Bent the bed a little but when that scion cought the rear bumper and like a can-opener riped the door panel, fender, headlight and front bumper off. Man them cars don't hold up very well. Almost scary. Didn't even bend the stock truck bumper but nearly totaled the car.
I guess this is my first post over here. I'm addicted to a couple different diesel forums...mostly OB...but others. Anyways I guess hello all.
So if I had a budget like that...I wont even lie I would be like a kid in a candy store, jumping off the wall with energy...all that good stuff.
So, to start out I would find a good, clean 6.9. I would take it apart fully, obviously. I would clean up the block, magnaflux it, all that stuff, to make sure it is good. I would then buy up some Mahle pistons. Take them to the machine shop, along with the whole rotating assembly. I would have it balanced to 4500-5000rpm's, a lot of money in machining would go into this. I would then have the machine shop shave the pistons, I would do the math prior, but I would drop compression to around 17:1. I would then have them ceramic coated to keep them from melting down as quick as not having it. I would take the cam, and have it custom ground. All new fasteners would be a must, ARP makes good stuff. I would probably invest in a main stud girdle, custom of course for one of these IH motors. I forget what size the headbolts are...but I hear that you can drill and tap for 9/16" ARP headstuds if I remember right, both the block and head would be done of course. I would have the heads gone through, and cleaned up real good. I would invest in some sort of custom valve springs, rumor has it the stockers start to float around 4200rpm's. I would do all new valves, inconel I believe is the high heat/pressure stuff used. If you wanna get real wild maybe do some custom heads to make our IDI's a DI by moving the injector, that would be a lot of work and money though. So then I would use 7.3 rockers of course, and custom high strength pushrods. Mel Agne makes a Moose pump, which rivals the DPS pump, but you can safely turn it up more without destroying the pump. So a moose pump would be a minimum, if not custom graft a Cat 3208 pump, and turn it up all the way. I would take G code injectors, had through Mel, have his guy make some custom tips, that actually have some good spray pattern to them compared to DPS stage 1 injectors. Twin turbo's would be a must. I would use a ATS wastegated turbo with a super 60 intake housing/wheel, or maybe bigger, for the smaller turbo, it would be good to around 15psi before super heating the air. I would have that blowing into some sort of bigger turbo, it would be kinda hard to pick. Some that come to mind are the H2E turbo, maybe a HX40 turbo...there are probably tons others that I am missing. Custom oil lines to each of course. I would locate the batteries to the bed to make room for these as well. I would get an aluminum radiator, to keep this thing cool. Mechanical fan is a must, electric fans arent good enough to keep it cool. I would use an intercooler from a 6.0 PSD. Water/meth injection for pulling trailers would go on as well.
At that compression ratio...40psi of boost I can see being ok to run. I would think the motor listed above would make the 400hp you would want.
Now, at that compression ratio, it would be hard to start...because lets face it our IDI's hate the cold. So I would use slow glow plugs out of a chevy 5.7 diesel. I would run those for some time before start up. I would have 3 1000cca batteries in the bed, possibly 4. I would have an intake grid heater rigged into the intake somehow. A gear reduction starter would be on of course.
Thats all I can think of right now, more will come to me in the future I would think
I guess this is my first post over here. I'm addicted to a couple different diesel forums...mostly OB...but others. Anyways I guess hello all.
So if I had a budget like that...I wont even lie I would be like a kid in a candy store, jumping off the wall with energy...all that good stuff.
So, to start out I would find a good, clean 6.9. I would take it apart fully, obviously. I would clean up the block, magnaflux it, all that stuff, to make sure it is good. I would then buy up some Mahle pistons. Take them to the machine shop, along with the whole rotating assembly. I would have it balanced to 4500-5000rpm's, a lot of money in machining would go into this. I would then have the machine shop shave the pistons, I would do the math prior, but I would drop compression to around 17:1. I would then have them ceramic coated to keep them from melting down as quick as not having it. I would take the cam, and have it custom ground. All new fasteners would be a must, ARP makes good stuff. I would probably invest in a main stud girdle, custom of course for one of these IH motors. I forget what size the headbolts are...but I hear that you can drill and tap for 9/16" ARP headstuds if I remember right, both the block and head would be done of course. I would have the heads gone through, and cleaned up real good. I would invest in some sort of custom valve springs, rumor has it the stockers start to float around 4200rpm's. I would do all new valves, inconel I believe is the high heat/pressure stuff used. If you wanna get real wild maybe do some custom heads to make our IDI's a DI by moving the injector, that would be a lot of work and money though. So then I would use 7.3 rockers of course, and custom high strength pushrods. Mel Agne makes a Moose pump, which rivals the DPS pump, but you can safely turn it up more without destroying the pump. So a moose pump would be a minimum, if not custom graft a Cat 3208 pump, and turn it up all the way. I would take G code injectors, had through Mel, have his guy make some custom tips, that actually have some good spray pattern to them compared to DPS stage 1 injectors. Twin turbo's would be a must. I would use a ATS wastegated turbo with a super 60 intake housing/wheel, or maybe bigger, for the smaller turbo, it would be good to around 15psi before super heating the air. I would have that blowing into some sort of bigger turbo, it would be kinda hard to pick. Some that come to mind are the H2E turbo, maybe a HX40 turbo...there are probably tons others that I am missing. Custom oil lines to each of course. I would locate the batteries to the bed to make room for these as well. I would get an aluminum radiator, to keep this thing cool. Mechanical fan is a must, electric fans arent good enough to keep it cool. I would use an intercooler from a 6.0 PSD. Water/meth injection for pulling trailers would go on as well.
At that compression ratio...40psi of boost I can see being ok to run. I would think the motor listed above would make the 400hp you would want.
Now, at that compression ratio, it would be hard to start...because lets face it our IDI's hate the cold. So I would use slow glow plugs out of a chevy 5.7 diesel. I would run those for some time before start up. I would have 3 1000cca batteries in the bed, possibly 4. I would have an intake grid heater rigged into the intake somehow. A gear reduction starter would be on of course.
Thats all I can think of right now, more will come to me in the future I would think
Hey-HEY! welcome over buddy.
The manifold gaskets may not hold up to 40 psi of boost pressure.
The stock head bolts are 7/16".
The AC delco 12G glow plugs are supposed to be a self regulating glow plug, but I haven't been able to get any yet to test for myself. If they work, it might be worth trying if you need a longer glow time.
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1986 F250HD Ex cab Fresh built up 6.9L diesel Lariat AC leather seats power everything w/full cluster, sterling rear 3.08LS gears, E4OD trans, ram intake ATS 088 turbo
1986 F150 Ex cab Lariat rollercam 5.0L on LPG AOD trans 3.55 gears 390 000Ks
The manifold gaskets may not hold up to 40 psi of boost pressure.
The stock head bolts are 7/16".
The AC delco 12G glow plugs are supposed to be a self regulating glow plug, but I haven't been able to get any yet to test for myself. If they work, it might be worth trying if you need a longer glow time.
I would think at 17:1 they would be able to withstand 40psi....not quite sure, but I think it would. 15psi is doable at 21.5:1 so 40 at 17:1 I'm thinking would work.
Alright, thanks for that, I wasnt sure on that. In that case, then yes you can make the 6.9 block and heads use 9/16" studs, cant on a 7.3 though.
I forgot to add....go through the exhaust manifolds and really clean them up for more airflow.
You could 325 out of one of these engines with no trouble. It would require head work and maybe some cam work but it would use more fuel then I could afford.
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79/83/86/95 F-??? 6.9 4speed
94 350 4x4 SRW 7.3 factory turbo
1930 Model A Original
My wife has three of her own.
I would think at 17:1 they would be able to withstand 40psi....not quite sure, but I think it would. 15psi is doable at 21.5:1 so 40 at 17:1 I'm thinking would work.
I was more worried about the intake manifold gasket. Dave mentioned he once managed to inflate his valley pan when he went past 20 psi in his driveway. I think ARP studs for the intake manifold would be required. I made my own studs out of grade 8 ready rod and then put 50% more torque on them, so I could probably go to 20 PSI now, but would be nervous approaching 30. I also coated the intake and exhaust manifolds with copper gasket spray, so I hope I can get th kind of boost I'm after. I'll probably never attempt even 30 psi though.
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1986 F250HD Ex cab Fresh built up 6.9L diesel Lariat AC leather seats power everything w/full cluster, sterling rear 3.08LS gears, E4OD trans, ram intake ATS 088 turbo
1986 F150 Ex cab Lariat rollercam 5.0L on LPG AOD trans 3.55 gears 390 000Ks
I was more worried about the intake manifold gasket. Dave mentioned he once managed to inflate his valley pan when he went past 20 psi in his driveway. I think ARP studs for the intake manifold would be required. I made my own studs out of grade 8 ready rod and then put 50% more torque on them, so I could probably go to 20 PSI now, but would be nervous approaching 30. I also coated the intake and exhaust manifolds with copper gasket spray, so I hope I can get th kind of boost I'm after. I'll probably never attempt even 30 psi though.
Got ya. Yeah I heard about Dave's run in with the intake manifold gaskets...so yeah you would have to do something for that as well.
Whats your compression ratio at? You said on the other site that it had lower compression....
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1997 F250 Crew Cab 4x4 
until motor overhaul is finished. 1984 F250 2 wheel drive 6.9 Extended cab 4 spd manual. (3) 1976 F250 Reg Cab 4x4 All 390, two C6 and one 4 spd. 
Lariat AC leather seats power everything w/full cluster, sterling rear 3.08LS gears, E4OD trans, ram intake ATS 088 turbo
