Lots of Play in your clutch pedal? Shifting problems? Might be the bushings in your pedal box. Mine were worn through at about 100K miles. I got mine at the Ford dealer cheap and they actually had them in stock. The bushing kit is #10 in this link. Victoria British - Catalog FD - Page 45
This is how I replaced mine. First make sure the parking brake is on the tranny is in gear and chock the wheels. Remember you are going to have to take out the hole pedal assembly so you are not going to have a brake or clutch for a while. I remember someone saying he removed the front seat but I didn't find it necessary but watch for the handle you are going to use to move the seat back. It will get you in the back as you try to get under the dash
1 Remove the MC bushing from the right side of the pedal box. It should just pop off with a screwdriver but be careful some of the shafts are plastic.
2 Remove any wires that will get in the way like the one on the neutral safety switch on the MC and tuck them away.
3 Remove the brake light switch and PAY ATTENTION to the way it comes apart and the position of the shaft that goes to the brake booster.
4 Remove the brake MC. This will be real easy if you have the 6637 air filter mod. Just remove the filter so you have the room to get the MC off the brake booster. If you have the stock air filter box it will probably have to come out. I have the K@N cold air intake and I did manage to get the MC off the booster without touching it but is was a very tight fit. If you don't have the 6637 mod this may be the time to do it. I did not remove any brake lines and got lucky because mine had some major rust on them. If yours are rusted be careful or you my be replacing broken brake lines.
5 Remove the clutch MC.
6 Remove the universal joint for the steering shaft under the dash. Bottom first. You should be able to push the shaft down toward the fire wall to get it out of the way.
7 Remove the four bolts that hold the pedal box in. They are the bolts that hold the brake booster in. Then remove booster.
8 Now for the fun part. If I did not forget any important details you should be able to wrestle the pedal box out. It can be a pain it will hang up on the dash but from what I remember pull down and forward and pry a Little on the dash if you have to and it will come out.
9 Remove the clutch spring on the box. Remove the nut on the right side of the box so you can remove the clutch pedal shaft. PAY ATTENTION to the arrangement of the bushings as you remove the shaft. Polish any rust off the shaft, lube and assemble with the new bushings.
Well that should be it. Just put every thing back in in the reverse order of removal and that should be it. When you put the universal back on the steering shaft watch for a notch in the shaft. The bolt goes through it. and the steering wheel might be clocked, not sure so make sure the wheel is in the right position.
__________________
1994 F350 CC Dually
7.3 DI TURBO DIESEL
5 SPEED
HPX, FPR shimmed, Edge
Intake, Downpipe, Cat delet
Ive done the same procedure on mine. He is pretty well dead on with his instructions. Took me about an hour, but I had alredy taken the pedal assembly out once before so I knew what I was doing.
(reps sent, I was to lazy to do a write up)
__________________
1997 F-250HD XLT
4x4 OFFROAD
5 Speed
4.10 LS
6637 Intake
No kitty or muffler
Camo Interior
Superwinch Hubs
Being a professional does not mean you never make mistakes.
It's how you deal with and recover from those mistakes.
Yea, it did take me longer because I never did it before and I tried to take some shortcuts that made the job take longer. I was hoping that I would not have to take the brake booster off but that did not work and getting the master cylinder off the brake booster with the air box in the way turned into a all out no holds barred fight. Funny how trying to take shortcuts can make a job take longer. You would think I would know better by now. LOL Well the reason I did this write up was so If any one has to deal with this hopefully every thing will go smooth. Good Luck.
Latter
__________________
1994 F350 CC Dually
7.3 DI TURBO DIESEL
5 SPEED
HPX, FPR shimmed, Edge
Intake, Downpipe, Cat delet
1997 F-350 PSD Auto 257K
Tuned by Tony, Built by ME!
TDP/TW tunes
AD injectors
6.0 IC
17* HPOP
Tru-cool
The Cure
ESE Eliminator
6" stacks
4 Wh disc brakes
1/4 mile-14.59@88 MPH
Click the Picture for wiring diagrams, tech info and Pictures!
thank you for the write up i already ordered my e-bay bushing, am contemplating replacing the others as well.
About the e-bay bushing, I think that is for the MC's that have the STEEL shaft that goes from the clutch lever to the MC. What will happen is when the plastic bushing between the clutch lever and the shaft goes you have metal to metal contact that will elongate the hole in the shaft and chew up the stud on the clutch lever and this will cause some play and busted up parts. Some trucks have a plastic shaft and I doubt the E-bay bushing will work on it and probably will never need it because you will never get the metal to metal contact. Anybody know what year truck started using the steel shaft?
__________________
1994 F350 CC Dually
7.3 DI TURBO DIESEL
5 SPEED
HPX, FPR shimmed, Edge
Intake, Downpipe, Cat delet
About the e-bay bushing, I think that is for the MC's that have the STEEL shaft that goes from the clutch lever to the MC. What will happen is when the plastic bushing between the clutch lever and the shaft goes you have metal to metal contact that will elongate the hole in the shaft and chew up the stud on the clutch lever and this will cause some play and busted up parts. Some trucks have a plastic shaft and I doubt the E-bay bushing will work on it and probably will never need it because you will never get the metal to metal contact. Anybody know what year truck started using the steel shaft?
I'm pretty sure our's are plastic? I remember a couple people on here replacing them?
I know something is jacked with mine. Everytime I push in the clutch, I hear a sound like something is sticking/loose.
__________________
97' F250HD 4x4 Intercooled Powerstroke 5 Speed LB / Stage II (180cc) Injectors / HX50 Turbo (19cm) / 10 K / 5er
A-Pillar AutoMeter Cobalts [Boost, Pyro, Water Temp]
4" Straight / 6637 / CCV / 203 Stat
yes if you stick your head under the dash board took at the assembly on the gas pedal side you will see the rod comming out of the cluch mc you can just pull to the passenger side on the rod and it will come right off and you can look at the bushing, mine was completely denigrated and worn into the pin. i have a busy day ahead of me tomorrow but i will try to snap a picture in the morning if you would like.
__________________
96 f250 7.3L powerstroke
5spd manual
4.10 axel ratio
extened cab long box
superchips max tuner
6637 filter
no kitty
Just looked into it. Rock-auto shows both, all aftermarket, most steel. Not sure what Ford did and not sure if the e-bay bushing will work on the plastic??????????????? Anybody do this with the plastic one? Maybe the plastic is just on the end where it mounts to the clutch lever and it can be cut off?
__________________
1994 F350 CC Dually
7.3 DI TURBO DIESEL
5 SPEED
HPX, FPR shimmed, Edge
Intake, Downpipe, Cat delet
i think if the pastic one is constructed the same it would probably work, but i plain would not want a plastic clutch rod period. if plastic works with a stock bushing i don't see why it wouldn't with the ebay one but if the bushings need to be replaced and you have a plastic rod its probably time to switch to a metal one anyway
__________________
96 f250 7.3L powerstroke
5spd manual
4.10 axel ratio
extened cab long box
superchips max tuner
6637 filter
no kitty
