I thought I had it fixed but it still dies every few months. Last one a month ago. This is not my dd but want to get it reliable at 180k miles. Temperature is always in 70-80 with high humidity and running at slow speed (hayride, following tractor, stop and go traffic, etc. Restarts in five minutes.

It idles and runs great other than a little 30mph 1500rpm bumping at light throttle. Vacuum tests fine. No oil blow by.

Using my code reader I get

KOEO 111 pass,

Continuous Memory 211 Profile ignition Pickup (PIP) circuit failure, 212 Loss of igniton diagnostic monitor signal /SPOUT circuit grounded, 334 EGR closed valve voltage high.

KOER 111 pass.

Intermittently get an air bag light flashing 3-4 but goes away after warm up/dry out. Clock spring replacement fixed the 3-2 code last year.

I have replaced ICM with new Motorcraft module, Plug wires with 9mm Ford Racing, cap and rotor, Motorcraft copper plugs, fuel filter, purge cannister selenoid. Severe duty fan clutch to cool/dry under hood better.

Thoughts...211 probably from dying isue. Also got a CEL when it died.
212 is new but might be from SPOUT out when setting timing at 11 btdc. 334 EGR and sensor are fairly new but different brands.

My next idea is to clean the coil input connector then feel those two wires WHEN it dies again to see if the coil supply wire is hot indicating the culprit which is my next suspect.

I sure would appreciate any suggestions. Am I missing something?

 

Please keep thinking guys. It has been five days now and no reply but I will not have time to work on it until around the 18th anyway. So, keep thinking. I know I can't stump the experts here.

 

here's a shot in the dark;run a can of seafoam thru it.I am thinking clogged fuel-injectors.

 

I'd look in to that 211 code PIP circuit failure. THose symptoms do sound like a bad PIP sensor in the distributor. Check to see if theres a diagnostic procedure for that code.

 

Your “211 code PIP circuit failure” refers to cam and/or crank sensors. You could have a bad one, but most of the time it is just bad sensor plug or wires. Yours still has a distributor so your sensor should be in there. If it is the 94 Bronco in your profile.

 

Thanks guys. I filed income tax last night so now I can think about the Bronco again. Yes, it is the '94 in the profile. I think I remember seeing a connector next to the distributor so I will clean it and the coil one and apply dielectric grease. Since this intermittent failure hits months apart, feel free to add anything else even if this thread gets old while I wait for it to die on the road again. Thanks again.

 

Ignition pickup = Pickup coil (aka stator) in the dizzy. Ford basic part number 12A112.

When techs at Ford dealers replace the ignition module, they usually replace the pickup coil at the same time.

Pickup coils have about the same failure rate as the ignition modules.

 

Thanks. My plan this weekend is to clean and dielectric grease conectors then warm engine really good and wiggle test wiring to try to make it die. If it does not die I am not sure if the Haynes diagnostics would apply to a failure every few months if it is running. So I may just drive it more then pull distributor if it dies again. I have never torn down a distributor so thinking if a rebuilt comes with the PIP coil (I have new cap and rotor) the whole thing would only be $30-40 more then stator alone. With failure always when 70-85 degrees outside and humid makes me think a winding may be opening but I guess connectors and wires could do it also. Guess I had better start carring test equipment and procedures.

 

Update...I cleaned, dried and greased the connectors to the coil and distributor this morning. The wires appear good with no rub places, burns or visiable cracks. I started the engine and wiggled a lot of wires and all seem good. If it dies again in several months I'll try the stator in the distributor. Thanks again for the help.

 

Next....What came in a 94? Cast iron or steel gear? I'm looking at a Cardone remanufactured distributor which has everything except cap and rotor. Bronco died again. Still same issue but getting worse. Wife drove it two miles this morning, parked it two hours and it would not start after sitting. This is the first time it just would not start. Several times over the last year it died and restarted within five minutes. She got a ride home and when I arrived an hour later it started perfectly and I drove it home. I have replaced ignition module, rotor, cap, wires, plugs and cleaned connections at distributor and coil and the problem gradually gets worse.. At 178K miles I'm thinking of replacing the whole distributor not just the PIP stator. Or, could it be the coil pigtail wires that passed the wiggle and feel cool test, or the coil??

<TABLE class=base-table style="FONT-SIZE: 12px" width="100%"><TBODY><TR style="FONT-SIZE: 10px"><TD width=250>w/CAST IRON GEAR </TD></TR><TR style="FONT-SIZE: 10px"><TD vAlign=top width=10> </TD><TD width=250>CAST IRON & STEEL GEARS ARE NOT INTERCHANGEABLE & WILL CAUSE SEVERE DAMAGE



</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

 

I got a wrecker ride today. I have thrown all the parts I know to throw at my Bronco. Yesterday, I replaced the distributor and it worked great pulling a trailer 50 miles. Upon the return it died for a second or four seconds about a dozen times at 65 mph. During those seconds the tack went all the way to zero even thought the rpms were still up. Three miles from home it had us on the side of the road twice but restarted in 5 minutes. Then at 2 miles from home it died and would not restart even after an 1 1/2 hours with the hood up. While waiting I pulled codes KOEO and got 111 even though it would not start. CM were the sam old 211,212,334 as usual. So how can I check the coil and pig tail wires to it. Some suggested looking for capacitor leaks on the PSOM. Where is the PSOM and how do your access it? Thanks guys this intermittent and now permanent dying is tearing me up.

 

I have suggested this before to other posts because I had an issue with my dads '55 ford. Nest time it dies try removing the gas cap and see if it will restart. My dads truck had a bad cap and it would create enough of a vapor lock that it couln't get fuel. Might be a long shot but at least it is only a $8 long shot.

 

But have you checked your TPS and related wiring.

Also please give us a little more infortmation on when it dies, ie...

How fast, are you towing, are you turning, using signals, braking for traffic,
anything at all will help ie... bumpy road.

One thing I will mention that I have seen once in the past more as an example of a strange problem than a suggestion to you.

A friend of mine had a similar dieing problem on his Nissan for quite some time cause turned out to be a shorted Alternator, similar effect codes like your getting but no cause codes BTW it never blew a fuse once but it would kill the ignition for a short time.

On that note do check and change all your ignition fuses just to be on the safe side.

One last suggestion and many folks neglect this part of their vehicle the Battery cables especially if they run anywhere near exhaust.

Check and perhaps change them, I can't stress how important those cables are. Even it the look good, inside the plastic or rubber covering there can be a bad or hot spot that only causes problems in heat or cold


Keep us informed.

Cheers,Rick.

 

Good news, not great news. After sitting over night it still will not start. The fuel pump runs a few seconds. The game has changed now that it is not intermittent. Now I can go to Haynes diagnostics with my meter and my disc if I can firure it out. I'm working Labor Day so it may be next weekend before I wade through it all. Thanks for everyone's suggestions I greatly appreciate your taking the time to help.

 

Update...Oh No, it is running At first it did not start. Got a remote starter button. Turned ignition to Run. Put a screwdriver in a wire and gaped to a ground. Cranked and no spark. Fuel pump still runs a few seconds. I tested fuses under the hood. #12 (diode to electronic engine control relay???? Hmmmm) and #22 tested good with meter. Relay 1 and 2 are identical so swapped them. Fuel pump ran a few seconds again as always. I cleared tools away and tried to start it. Darn it, it fired right up. Now I can't test with it dead but risk driving it and meeting another wrecker driver. Could moving the relays have fixed it???