Does anyone have any pics of this??? Ive looked for hours and find a lot of people saying they did it, but no pics. I have a good idea how I will get this done, I would just like to see it. And again anyone know about the front dually rotors swapping with the single RW rotors (just to reassure me).

 

Ah the debate on can I stuff the newer d60 front into my truck. Lol I've been there and pondered if I can make it work as well. Whenever I build a truck I always try to make everything street leagl as possible. If you've seen my truck I get hassled by cops all the time. I don't know a backyard outboard job will go over so well on a roadside inspection(if the cop has any mechanical sense,most dont but talk like they do) or a vehicle inspection. IMO if the 78/79 front is not an option due to $ or limited amount of them out there a old model chebby d60 front might be your option. I've seen this done a few times and it is a clean setup. You will have to do some mods as well if I can remember right you will have to tap a hole near the pot on the pass. side and run a short threaded bolt for a ubolt,relocate the spring perch on other side, and run the chebby t-case. just another option...

 

I been researching this alot-and might have the answer, for me at least.
My truck is reggied as an F100 4x4 (shhhhh!) but has a 76 F250 chassis. I swapped the drivetrain to the 79 style-married Tcase and 79 Tcase xmember.
Finding a 78/79 hp D60 is not easy-but the later model ones, up to 92? are plentiful, and swappable into F150/Bronco chassis fairly easy.
Thanks to captain p4!
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...79-bronco.html

So I would have to remove the leaf sprung front, and convert to the radius arm/coil setup like a stock F150-mod the axle as per the link-probly gain more articulation and ride comfort while gaining a D60 front!
I would need a F150 front suspension lift to even out the truck of course-but done correctly it should look fairly stock, plus going back to radius arms shouldn't alarm the authorities if I get checked-hopefully.
My truck has the 2wd steering box mod already-although it is inboard of the frame-it could cause me some steering fun.
I can't remember the frame widths of the F150-F250's so that might throw a wrench into the gears too.
Am I crazy for considering this??
swapping from F100 chassis to F250, then back to F150 style front suspension! LOL
I would end up with a heavier frame, and rear suspension at least, and could sell the 2 D44 Hd's (1 low pinion, other HP)I have.
Been a few times I wish I never swapped chassis's-but the body is solid, no rust holes, a couple small dents-and its a Ranger xlt.
Lemme know what you all think!

 

I second the radius arm swap for ease of installment. Another thought would be a body swap onto a new style truck frame. I'd love to do that with my '87. All updated drive train, tranny, and engine, with the style and looks of "Old School"

But anyways, I said I would get some photos of the completed bracket I made. . .






Bracket takes 5 bolts. 3 bolts go into the original holes for the original bracket, then 2 more under the bottom of the frame. 3 large washers space the bracket out of the indentation of the original bracket to provide a solid fit.

 

As we have already mentioned, the easy way out would be to convert to a long arm radius arm (required if using a crew cab frame) with a coil spring, or even easier to use a coil over.
Here is the deal though, the money spent to perform all of the fab work, and the labor required would simply not be enough to justify the cost.
Even if the axle was "free" it might still be a more cost effective solution to spend the 1500 bucks and buy the bolt in axle.
If you had the intention of going to a coilover in the first place then by all means go for it, the choices are open, although the ,long tube axle (78/9) is still more desireable because it is easier to weld onto that long tube.
Save a few bucks and have to spend it all over again might not be the way to go for a guy with limited fab skils, or a guy that might not be as confident in getting shackle angles correct, or taking on a front axle. Lots to consider if something goes wrong.

Lets say a guy has a lift kit already, and is simply ugrading axles. This guy has the option of buying the correct one for 1500 bucks (about the going rate for a 78/9 axle) and he can also buy an 81 for 900 bucks, (again about the going rate).
Now if he decides to stay with leaf spring suspension this guy is gonna have to fab up some hangers. Depending on fab skills this could be easy, and it could me close to impossible. If this guy has to farm this work out, this could run a few hundred alone, just for brackets. Now the owner is forced to go with crossover steering, but we will assume this was in the budget already, but at least with the earlier axle it is an option.
Now brackets are ready to bolt in, and the frame can be drilled, and the old pivots and hangers ground out and removed. Again a simple task if the owner can read a tape and operate some hand tools to accomplishh this. Farm it out, and this will get real expensive, real fast.
At any rate, using a later axle is an alternative, but this is not the alternative for the faint at heart, ot the guy taking on his first project. This alternative could cost more than the difference, or cost savings than if he spent the little bit of extra money and bought the bolt in axle in the first place.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=16748&width=0
here is a pic of Pro's hanger design.

Forgot to mention that with the later axle, and a 205 t-case, one could expect a weird front driveshaft (compound) angle.
Not a real big deal, but it could be if this driver was driven in 4wd high range at higher speeds.
Just throwing that out there.

 

Ok, way cool to know! Thanks to all! I hopefully will just find the correct axle, and make life easier for myself. At least now I know there are options available!

I might just start collecting a radius arm front end for the hell of it, and I know there are alot of parts available for them. It would be alot more work, but the end results would make it worthwhile.

 

Hey one more question...I need to know waht all is different between the DRW D-60's and SRW D-60's. Is it just the rotor/hub assembly or do I need to change out the spindle as well?

 

I did a google search; dana 60 tech and the first link it showed me was a link to pirate 4x4.
Anyways, it looks like spindles are the same, bearings, and lockout-but the *hub and rotor* are different. They can be converted(the article explains it-but not recommended for street) although.....
From what I have figured out the Ford Dana60 disc brake setup is the same/interchangeable with the Dana44heavy duty 8 lug axle!
Im not 100% sure yet, just stuff I have read-but I am hoping so because I just installed new rotors on my D44HD

 

Yes, Dana 60 Dually to Single conversion only requires a new hub/rotor. You can use a hub/rotor off of an existing Dana 60 OR off a Dana 50 TTB from a HD F-250 which is nice because you'll find a lot more of those in the junkyard than 60's

Be careful to avoid the HD Dana 44 TTB off of some years/GVWR F-250.

I'm pretty sure it's only the 77.5-79 F-250 HD Dana 44 to the 77.5-79 Dana 60. Don't quote me, but I remember the "Hi-Boy" caliper bracket spindle bores were different diameters.

And newer D44 TTB HD/50 TTB and D60 use slid pins to retain the brake calipers instead of a shim and bolts.

Well, just measure twice before you do anything. . .and if I'm wrong someone else speak up

 

Just to bring up an old thread, I wanted to add another option for the use of a later model axle under an early Ford truck.
ChaseTruck754 has this same issue, and is willing to modify and fabricate anything to accomodate his needs. He is not to concerned about being factory correct, and just wants a good functional system, as long as it looks as good as it performs. Well actually with Steve, it should look better, but that is a different story.
We have aggreed that fabricating a custom mount was the way to go, and he has a few other things to consider. He is also installing a Cummins, and has to be prepared for just about anything here. He will run a large intercooler, and a Nascar style crossflow radiator.
Should look awesome. With his fab skills, I know it will be as appealing to the eye, as it will be a functional install.
Well by making a front piece that will still fit the front of the frame, we can now move the hangerss out to accomodate the factory perches on the axle.
The only attention now has to me made for the shackles themselves, and this I think is the gravy stuff. He simply has to decide how long, or how much travel he desires, so we can fab up a pivot for this amount of travel.
ChaseTruck754 has not seen this yet, but i though I would share in this thread.
I believe it has the answers he is looking for, and might bring some new ideas to the table for this type of upgrade.
Image of Front Hanger section - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

 

I thought you had been quiet for a while Ed - and now I know why... You've been in the shop fabbing! And here I was thinking you were spending time with your daughter

That thing looks good!

As for my stuff - 1st up thanks for the nice comments on my fab skills. If I could only get my living situation figured out I might have more time to fab. Soon enough though!

As I said before - I keep going back and forth on whether or not I will 4 link mine or just run outboard leafs. If I go leafs I will try some super duty leafs, but as you said I have a LOT to consider on this front end as I start. Yes I have the new cross members, etc. for the cummins, but I also have to pretty much re-construct the front of my frame thanks to the knucklehead previous owner who BUTCHERED the thing to put a 2wd steering box in it. Whatever mine ends up being I hope it looks half as good as that thing in the pic above!
Either way people can expect TONS of pics of my cummins install, as well as whatever I do for the d60 - as I like to have my stuff WELL documented.

My new concern in running cross over steering at pretty much STOCK ride height. I don't want to lift my tuck much if at all as I prefer a low ride height and only want to run 35" tires. Doing the 4 link and coilovers would help me in this scenario...

 

Wouldnt it be easier to re-tube a newer D60 and put the spring mounts where you want them?

 

depends on who you are. That seems like more work then welding on spring pads and bolting on leaf hangers to me...

Then again it all depends on what you are comfortable doing.

Also - aren't the axle lengths different in the new vs. old - seeing as it is the pumpkin or center section that is moved? After buying the new tubes and axles, etc. I think you'd be better off just buying a 78/79 axle from the beginning.

 

Actually Steve, that thing is all shined up because my little one wanted to help dad at the shop, so i gave her a grinder and a flap wheel. What I got back was a dead 4 inch grinder and a flap wheel that had seen better days, lol.
She did a pretty good job, I just asked her to clean up some of the areas where I flashed the tig torch, and the spots where I used the mig. She made that thing as smooth as glass, and it appears to not have too many dips or low spots. Might make a little fabricator out of her yet.
We r in AZ right now, as she has to go back.

So we dont buther this thread up like crazy, you are correct with axle lengths and tube retro fits. It does make sense to modify the axle tube, but that too brings its own costs, and dollar for dollar, the easiest thing to do wold be to buy the correct axle in the first place.
Fabrication is fun, and often necessary when certain components are not available.
The piece up above is actually for a chebby, but does pertain to this thread.
This adds much frame support for already weak factory frame horns, and obviously we can make accomodations for any winch or non winch applications.

So we r back to 4-linking the Mutt? Right on!!!

 

So....feel like sellin one of those??

You made it to bolt in, that pretty good and it looks damn good. I bet you could make some money on that idea. How long did it take to make?