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Old 07-10-2008, 12:14 PM
69 F100 LWB 69 F100 LWB is offline
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6.9L Starter Removal Question

I've read all the info here about how "fun" that the top bolt is (and I swore I would pull the engine in my 84 if I had to change my starter again!!), but what I didn't see was anyone mentioning if pulling the tire/fender liner would let you get to the top bolt from above.

So is that possible? I noticed on a 97 F150 that with the fender liner out you have a huge access to the side of the engine. Are the early 80's F250's the same way?
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Old 07-10-2008, 12:49 PM
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If you were to remove the whole plastic liner than it might give you an advantage but that in itself is pretty involving as the battery tray has to be dismantled as well as all sorts of other devices on that fender. There is a smaller access hole behind the coil spring/shock absorber bracket that is normally covered with some sound insutating vinyl. This vinyl piece may be easier to remove for access through the wheel well. But looking at the postition of the starter, its well hidden by the frame rail from the side, so I'm not sure how much help that would really be.
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Old 07-10-2008, 10:21 PM
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If you have a Nippondenso gear reduction starter, a short wrench is the only thing that will get it out.

Click the image to open in full size.

If you have a Mitsubishi gear reduction starter, the right size extensions make it a breeze to remove.

Click the image to open in full size.

I have found the newest Mitsubishi starters are so long, you have to hold it just right and turn it at the right time or the cross member is right in the way.
The bolts are cake though.

The Nippondenso top bolt was a nightmare, but it is so short they fall out.
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Old 07-10-2008, 10:33 PM
bc6.9 bc6.9 is offline
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I've done this enough times, I could do this in my sleep I even bought a special rachet to do the job...it's not that hard, once you done it 4 or 5 times...email if you want more info.
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Old 07-10-2008, 11:36 PM
archangel archangel is offline
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I just rebuilt my starter yesterday and I used a swivel head SnapOn ratchet with a 1/2" standard short socket with a 6" extension from the front of the starter reaching back over the top to the top bolt head.

DAMN THE ENGINEER WHO DID NOT LET THE BOTTOM RIGHT SIDE BELL HOUSING BOLT THAT IS IN THE RIGHT PLACE ACT AS THE TOP STARTER BOLT!

You have to use a drop light shoved between the frame and inner plastic fender right by the starter to light up the top of the starter.

You also have to be looking through an oval shaped peep hole in the frame right above where the control arm mounts to the frame to watch the socket connect with the bolt head.

There are 2 big wires and their connecting nuts that you can see on the starter while it's mounted and one little one up on top where you can't see it until you pull it.

Only pull the heavy cable on the starter that comes from the battery (YOU DID UNHOOK BOTH BATTERIES NEGATIVE POSTS BEFORE STARTING, RIGHT?) the other big wire next to it does not need to be disconnected as it just goes from the solenoid to the starter.

There is a small wire (uses a 5/16 socket) does but I wait until the starter is disconnected and "hanging" down to pull the little wire so you will want a chunk of 4X4 or something like it to balance the starter up on it's nose to pull the last little wire.

Before you reinstall the new starter, pull the solenoid to starter wire and tighten the mounting nut, and tighten the battery and little ones while you are at it as if they come loose, you will think the starter is bad with the way it will act with loose connections.
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Had to sell the Gray 1991 F250 standard cab, 7.3, E4OD, 3.55:1, stock wheels and tires.
It had a verified 19 mpg city taking off slow as hell then shutting it down at red lights, and with the radiator grill blocked flush, no bed cover, "drag shoot" mirrors still on I got 24 mpg at 50 to 55 mph on the freeway empty!
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Old 07-11-2008, 03:28 AM
Dodge/Cummins Dodge/Cummins is offline
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I have the Mitsubishi on my '94, it was one of the easiest starters I've taken off.
That was after I locked my air ratchet between the bolt and the engine crossmember and spent 5 min. trying to get to the now inaccessible reversing switch on the backside of the ratchet.
Something, I don't remember what, would not let the ratchet turn by hand either so it was a real wrestling match to get it out. If you don't make that mistake it's not hard to do.
archangels recommendations are GREAT but I didn't have near that much trouble getting to the top bolt, I just guided the socket on with two hands: one above the starter and one pushing the socket and extension through. Maybe he's removing the Nippondenso.

I find it kind of ironic that the Intl. motor in a Ford has a Mitsubishi starter and they are kissing cousins with Chrysler. I know it's a Corporation thing but it's kinda funny.
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Old 07-11-2008, 08:49 AM
iron1951 iron1951 is offline
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I just replaced the Mitsubishi starter in my 87 f250. You do the top bolt by feel mostly. Lots of good advice here in this forum. To help position the ratchet just past the starter, but not hitting the frame, is to connect together a 3/8 to 1/2 inch and a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter together to make a small extension to add to your 6" extension. Once the bolt has broken loose, you could probably turn the extension with your fingers while supporting the weight of the starter so that the threads don't bind.
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Old 07-11-2008, 11:38 AM
archangel archangel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dodge/Cummins View Post
Maybe he's removing the Nippondenso.
Nope, it was the Mitsubishi starter.
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Had to sell the Gray 1991 F250 standard cab, 7.3, E4OD, 3.55:1, stock wheels and tires.
It had a verified 19 mpg city taking off slow as hell then shutting it down at red lights, and with the radiator grill blocked flush, no bed cover, "drag shoot" mirrors still on I got 24 mpg at 50 to 55 mph on the freeway empty!
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Old 07-11-2008, 02:48 PM
69 F100 LWB 69 F100 LWB is offline
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Thanks for the replies!!

I'm not sure which starter it is. I didn't look like a gear reduction but rather just a very large OEM style. (Like this: Image ) No way would a socket fit on it as the case was larger than the bolt pattern. I ended up using a ratchet, extension, and a crowsfoot to get the bolt tightened. After 4 hours for one bolt I was about ready to drive the truck off a cliff.... (but couldn't because the starter wasn't bolted on completely!! )

It is new and working fine. But I have a water leak in that area and I'm trying to find a good way to see if it is the heater seal, cracked block, or leaking head gasket.... I just can't see real well because the starter is in the way.
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Old 07-11-2008, 10:59 PM
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AC Delco direct drive starter.

Don't see many of them around here, to cold in the winter.
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Old 07-12-2008, 01:48 AM
archangel archangel is offline
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The one I have looks like a direct drive until you get it out and are able to get a good look at it.
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Had to sell the Gray 1991 F250 standard cab, 7.3, E4OD, 3.55:1, stock wheels and tires.
It had a verified 19 mpg city taking off slow as hell then shutting it down at red lights, and with the radiator grill blocked flush, no bed cover, "drag shoot" mirrors still on I got 24 mpg at 50 to 55 mph on the freeway empty!
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Old 07-12-2008, 03:00 AM
84-6.9 84-6.9 is offline
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The trick to the oem starter is loosen the two bottom bolts so as you loosen the top ones the nose of the starter can fall down giving the bolt and socket room to back all the way out before hitting the case. and when you put it back in put in the bottom two bolts loosely and now you have room to put the top one in, and the nose of the starter will come up as you tighten it, then tighten the two bottom ones. I just did this last week, now with the new starter,cable,and batteries I don't even need the glow plugs in the morning if it's above 65F.
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Old 07-12-2008, 08:32 AM
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My dad's 84 uses the Delco as well, at least until I replace it since it burned out again, but then, it has had issues I have been working out on it... he doesn't listen to the "don't crank it too long" rule...
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Old 07-13-2008, 07:26 AM
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I've changed the Mitsubishi starter several times and it gets easier each time. The best way to do it is to remove your negative battery cables and get under the truck and remove both of the lower bolts. Get the socket, 6" extension, and ratchet ready. Do not try to use an air ratchet or you will end up with it stuck somewhere like Dodge/Cummins posted, please believe me (and him!). Get out from under the truck and drink a couple of shots of fine Kentucky Bourbon. Wait 20 minutes to calm down. Get back under the truck and you now have the patience to deal with the nitwit engineer that put the top bolt in this location in the first place. It will know come out easier than had you stayed down there the first time.
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Old 07-13-2008, 11:30 PM
archangel archangel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 84-6.9 View Post
The trick to the oem starter is loosen the two bottom bolts so as you loosen the top ones the nose of the starter can fall down giving the bolt and socket room to back all the way out before hitting the case.
Well, when MY starter started to "fall down" after loosening the bottom bolts, it made removing the top one even harder as now there was tension on it!

Leave the bottom ones in and tight until you get that top one out!

Quote:
Originally Posted by 84-6.9 View Post
and when you put it back in put in the bottom two bolts loosely and now you have room to put the top one in, and the nose of the starter will come up as you tighten it, then tighten the two bottom ones.
Once again, I dissagree!
Get that starter good and tight with the bottom bolts first, then go for the top one and you can do it finger tight before needing to use a ratchet for that last 1/4 turn to tighten it down!
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Had to sell the Gray 1991 F250 standard cab, 7.3, E4OD, 3.55:1, stock wheels and tires.
It had a verified 19 mpg city taking off slow as hell then shutting it down at red lights, and with the radiator grill blocked flush, no bed cover, "drag shoot" mirrors still on I got 24 mpg at 50 to 55 mph on the freeway empty!
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Old 07-13-2008, 11:30 PM
 
 
 
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