Read This If You Own A 97 To 03 7.3 Its Urgent!

MallardSlayer07 · #1 (**permalink**) 07-10-2008, 12:43 AM

NOTE: this post came from my FINALLY! post. But i did this so everyone not looking at it would read.

Ok guys i knw its been a while but to answer you guys on the injector cup problem i wound up takin it to INTERNATIONAL because it was way cheaper there by about half of the price of the blue oval. I took it in and they did my cups in like 3 hours of work. It wound up bein somewhere around $360 for the job and i already had purchased the cups which are $10 a piece

FOR YOUR INFO: I would recomend to anyone who is opening up there engine for any reason and you are draining coolant and fluids out to go ahead and if you can afford it to have your injector cups changed because the problems you run into later on with injector failure caused by injector cups cracking or punching holes will cost you more in the long run than to just be safe. I sure learned this the hard way. I would also recomend just letting INTERNATIONAL do this because dont get me wrong im not much of a wrencher but even some of the guys i consider wrenchers will tell you that its a B**** to do and a pain.

TO INFORM THOSE WHO ARE READING AND ARE LOST: Here about a month and a half or so ago i ran into problems where my truck was loosing power, showing high temperatures and just plain out runnin like S*** and scarin me because of the way the engine sounded. Come to find out after tearing down to the injectors thinking it was injector failure (which was part of it) the cause was because seated in the head over each cylinder is an injector cup which is about the size of a regular shot glass in size. THIS CUP TAKES A SPECIALTY TOOL FROM ROLUNDA TOOL WHICH IS JOINT WITH FORD (Short for expensive as crap and still not what you need) The cups purpose is to separate coolant from the injector port and cool the head. The cups are actually fairly soft metal therefore they have to tap into the cup with an 1- 1/4'' Tap that is a 20 thread per inch, 6in flute 9 inch total in lenth TAP. It screws into the cup and then traditionally slide hammered out/ or like INTERNATIONAL drivin out by a small hydraulic ram. I dont mind tellin you guys i really struggled with this one and from my post you can tell it meant alot to me to describe this because i want all to knw.

Neal 97 250 · #2 (**permalink**) 07-10-2008, 11:16 AM

Thanks for the heads up. Reps sent.
I believe when I get radical enough to put studs in I will do that and I am thinking better pushrods and rockers also.

superduty4x4 · #3 (**permalink**) 07-10-2008, 11:36 AM

Good info MallardSlayer, too bad the nearest IH shop is probably 90 miles from me. At 168K on the clock I'm starting to get worried about the injectors.

powrstrkr · #4 (**permalink**) 07-10-2008, 01:01 PM

Good info. Does this not apply to the 96 engines?

MallardSlayer07 · #5 (**permalink**) 07-10-2008, 01:12 PM

Yes i believe it does but im not sure? Not sure if i would bank on it but i bet the 96's have em too. I think all of the trucks from 94 1/2 to 97's have em im pretty sure.

plowhand · #6 (**permalink**) 07-10-2008, 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by powrstrkr

Good info. Does this not apply to the 96 engines?

It applies to all PSD's. Repalcing injector cups is not really that hard IF you have the right tools, the remover and installer. Without them I do not thing it can be done. I have replaced them on three different engines (two were rebuilds and one had a couple of bad cups). This is why it is very important to keep your coolant in good condition.

Basically, just remove the injectors, drain coolant and oil, screw remover (big tap) into injector cup, attach slide hammer and pull the old one out. Clean up the cavity in the head, put sealer on the new cup, put the new cup on the installer (big piece of steel machined the shape of the injector), place new cup in head, hit the installer with a shop hammer to seat the new cup, repeat for each injector cup.

Neal 97 250 · #7 (**permalink**) 07-10-2008, 02:33 PM

Plow, it sounds like it can be done in the truck. I would think it would get tight in the back.

Talyn · #8 (**permalink**) 07-10-2008, 07:42 PM

Yea, sounds a bit tite in the back for the slide hammer even.
But seems possible.

The tool seems easily machined as well.

Is the tap a tapered tap specially for this ? or is it just a tap that will easily thread into it?

MallardSlayer07 · #9 (**permalink**) 07-11-2008, 01:24 AM

Yes it does get extremly tight and what we ran into on my truck is that the tap that we had was a 10 thread per inch flute and when we tried to pull the cups with the slide hammer they were just werent havin it and it would actually pull out. So then we tried to pull it from the very bottom of the cup with a smaller tap into the nozzle hole and yet again what do you knw murphy was ridin comfortably once again with me and it wouldnt work. CURSE YOU MURPHY, CURSE YOU!

Talyn: Yes it is a taperred tap But not much because the specialty tap is designed just enough to get it started and fit the cup (and it will seat in there a pretty good ways i would say 2in or so maybe a touch further even into the cup) with still allowing the teeth to grab and since it has 20 per inch it does just that. It is just all around a pain in the A$$ if you dont have the right tools. Like i said before just wound up takin er to International.

Talyn · #10 (**permalink**) 07-11-2008, 10:38 AM

Sounds like I can get the tool to install them machined, but the tap would have to be purchased.

I doubt people need them that bad though?