Previous scanner sessions said Cyl 5 contribution fail, and injector 5 sounded horrible on buzz test.
I just replaced injector 5 with a Brand new alliant power stamped injector from local injection shop.
Buzz test sounds correct now, but I'm still getting a cyl 5 contribution fail when I run the contribution test..
A lot of this is beyond my knowledge, but I have been reading that injector hydrolock can cause the billowing white smoke, and can also result in a loud bang, and would explain the oil being so dilluted with diesel fuel... just a thought.
__________________ Lisa
Early '99 long bed XLT supercab. 4" Pro Comp suspension lift, 35" BFG AT's, Hypermax Boost Pyrometer, 4" turbo back exhaust setup, Hypermax 330 chip.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 87 F-150 I6
Whenever I see a prius drive by I always hear a very fant "I'm gay", its so weird
Ok guys and gals, here's his past links and description of what he has been through. I still think part of his problem is blown turbo seals, which is what Mech2161 stated in the first reply to his first thread. The bang could have been the turbo hitting the housing and his limping home would not have created enough pressure to cause it to hit the housing again. The other problems sounds like more bad injectors or o rings and as some have stated in the above threads, a blown head gasket. Excessive blowby is a good sign something is bad wrong. But it could be a stuck valve as well. The poor idling could be a bad ICP. unplug the ICP and see if that helps with the idle. I, for one would at the very least, rule out the really bad stuff before you start throwing sensors and fluids at it.
I was thinking about pulling the ICP harness to check, though i'm not sure what that will accomplish as the oil is thin and the code is only thrown during a KOER test diagnostic, and as far as the o-rings go they are pretty much new. Boots appear ok all around, but there is oil in the intercooler pipes. not sure how much of that is normal. I will try to get some pics of things and post. BTW system registers that there is 14PSI boost at idle according to the PCM. Last time i checked the turbo i just checked play and it felt fine, but the blades are a little eat up on leading edges from dusting. Godd way to check turbo seals without yanking off pedestal?
Chad
Most of the time when seals go, there will be some oil coming out around the housing of the turbo. Mine had that and oil dripping out of the EBPV. The thin oil could well be part of the problem. I don't know what fuel thinned oil will do to the HPOP or the sensors. I don't see anyway you can have 14lbs of boost at idle. I doubt you could make that in neutral and any rpms.
PCM is reporting that to my scanner. I may be looking at wrong pressure. it has very little wastegate, then when i gun it the wastegate goes to like 99% and the pressure is around 14-15 psi. I'm look at manifold pressure, not sure if that is pre or post turbo.
Yes I am talking about hydrolock, a bad injector can cause so I have heard. I have never seen it, just read about it. I am reading that when this happens, you get a loud bang, and lots of white smoke.
__________________ Lisa
Early '99 long bed XLT supercab. 4" Pro Comp suspension lift, 35" BFG AT's, Hypermax Boost Pyrometer, 4" turbo back exhaust setup, Hypermax 330 chip.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 87 F-150 I6
Whenever I see a prius drive by I always hear a very fant "I'm gay", its so weird
I don't know about that, I was thinking hydrolock is when one of the cyl. fills with enough liquid to prevent it from reaching TDC. I think that is more of a not starting issue that a running bad issue. If one is hydrolocked, it won't turn over until the fluid is removed or cyl. is opened.
Yeah I was thinking the same thing ZX250.
Just removed the ICP connector, no change on start. I have video of a cold start, I'm going to look at where I can host it. I think You Tube may take a while, wonder if there is some place quicker.
I'll let ya know.
I just uploaded a video to youtube to give ya a more "hands on" approach. You can see that I start it cold, show you some smoke, then get in and gun it a couple of time, then hold at 1500RPM, then put it in reverse a few times, gunning it between each time to keep the motor alive. I also just noticed I appearently have a fuel leak at the back of passenger head. The fuel is all over the input line and my turbo pipes and is creating a small puddle underneath the truck, previously dismissed as AC condensation last night, but still there today. This might explain power loss, but does it explain the smoke. Take a look at it, tell me what you think. YouTube - Bad diesel problems
Can't tell for sure, but is that smoke coming up around the area where the turbo is? One thing you have to remember, if you run one of these out of fuel or oil, it takes a while to get the air out of the system, which may account for some of the extra noise. Is that a cold start, or was it warmed up?
If you are leaking enough fuel as to not get a good supply to fuel rails, then that would create a power problem. Still got the smoking issue......
yeah, I had always thought I had a pipe leak till i noticed an extra shine on some parts at the back of the engine. That's when I noticed the fuel leak. You are literally seeing the fuel being sprayed and burned off the turbo collector pipe on the passenger side. Looking at the shop manuals, fuel system problems could account for a lot of the problems I'm having, possibly the smoke as well. I'm going to try and get at that leak. hopefully it's just the fuel line fitting or something. I can only see the fitting with an inspection mirror, so not even sure if it is what is leaking, or if I have some sort of leak in the head itself. (god i hope it's the line). Any one know the specs on that fuel line. What fittings are used size, etc. Just in case it needs replacing.
Chad.
PS that was a cold start, but cold is a relative term in West Texas during July.
That would account for the diesel fuel smell you're having, and possibly some of the poor running issues. Other than a split line, orings should fix the leak. Don't know the specks or remember the size.
If you're going to keep playing with it, I do think changing the oil, and sucking as much oil out of the HPOP as you can would be a good idea. Having fuel in the oil is not helping things any. I'd recommend something cheap since you won't be able to get all the oil out of the rails, etc., so another change is in store if you get it running right soon.
If you remove the oil cap while it's running how much blow by do you have? When you did the cylinder contribution test, how far off was #5?
__________________
Chris
2002 F350 6-speed 444 CID. XLT, Heated Seat, 270,000 & counting. 6637 w/ Pete's armor. Cold air set up for 6637
“Good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment.” Will Rogers
test doesn't tell me how bad, PCM will just adjust injector profile down for each cylinder until it finds one that doesn't change as much as the others, then flags that cylinder. I think my fuel saturation problem has been possibly from the bad injector. Since I haven't changed my oil I won't really know for sure. It will probably be pretty clean though with all that diesel running through it. :-) I am just trying to hold that off till next pay day. Can't spend everything on this truck despite the fact I would. That and I'd like to make sure I can do as much as I can now, I would hate to ruin more oil. I will post some pics here is a sec showing the leak I found. I would love your thoughts.
Chad
