I just happened across this while browsing for parts : go to Summit and type this part # into the search box: G9063- a set of block huggers for under $100. Also, there are always shorties on ebay for cheap (at least on the starting bids), and if you follow several sooner than later one will sell for real cheap at the end of the auction.
Doug, thanks for pointing that out. Seems a better price. I'm not rich or wealthy. Well, look at my truck..
Anyways, I want the best I can get out of it on a low budget. I'm going with headers (I'll let ya'll know what), and hope you guys will give good advice on what size pipes and where to route.
Doug, again, I'd buy those in a heartbeat, BUT I want to know will they good (excellent sound) AND give performance on par with shorties? Or am I going to be disatisfied when I go to pull this 5000 pound trailer/car. I"ve done it once, but it gets weak unless I'm above 1800RPM. I'd like more down low grunt, but not just a little.
Cam will come in the future, but as for now, will those give me NOTICEABLY better torque and pulling power?
THANKS for pointing those out.
Tell me if you agree or disagree going for the mustang sound
Here is what I think a 5.0 is supposed to sound like. I know I may not have their e303 cam, BUT, teach me. What am I doing to sound like. I LOVE this 302 sound.
EDIT: This will be on a true dual set up with Flowmaster 40's (if I can see some that I like the sound to). It can't get louder than my cut off muffler and gutted cat. But, I know anything will sound better. We'll talk about that stuff later once I figure out headers. You guys are great because most people on here have heard many different set ups. I grew up in Chevy world... until I found out Ford is the better truck. They WILL last longer. Again, this truck is mine forever. Don't want something I regret on it.
And, the reason I want some good power from what I get is because I will keep this truck until it gets totaled from someone else head on collisioning me. If someone rear ends me... they have a heavy, heavy duty Road Warrier bumper to bump heads with. I spend some money for a magnaflow dual in/dual out for my 4.6 V8 94 Thunderbird, and a week later, I got head on collided.
POINT IS, I want something to stick with, because I love my truck. It's great, I love these Ford trucks. I don't want to put something on it that I only get 8 horsepower from.
Please, tell me what you know about those headers. And ease of changing plugs once they are on.
__________________ 1986 Ford F-150 4x4 5.0 EFI
XLT Lariat
NP435/NP208/9" 3.50 axle
Road Warrior bumper, Leaf Spring Overloads, Custom Exhaust Work
You really should google up "long tube vs. short tube header" and see the mustang mag article with dyno results for both for yourself. It's my belief (and quite a few others) that long tube headers are the best performance wise , but this dyno test points out that the difference is not as great as you might think. ie; if long tubes give you 30 more hp and 50 more torque, the shorties will be at 26 and 41., more or less. My daughter has the sound turned off on the comp right now so I'll have to hear that U-tube thing later. Those mustangs are probably sporting shorty headers BTW. I'm not real sure about the block huggers, but their probably OK. There are shorties for as little as $85 "buy it now " on ebay and tons more that will auction out for a lot less. I think you may be on the right track with a heat shield for the slave.. They also make sleeves to protect the line, and you should wrap your longtubes with header wrap anyway, IMO.
Iceman, I can tell you for a fact that when I switched from BBK shorties to BBk longtubes on this engine(in the mustang), there was a big defference in low end power! Plus, the sound was louder but smoother, if that makes sense.... With my Trickflow cam, the sound is something like Eleanor from the movie! The truck should be the same because I plan to use long tubes, if I can, and Flowmaster 40's, with side exits.
Yes, when I want to do this. I want longtubes IF it's possible in my set up. I want them... I'm just more for them. I it's impossible as has been said, I'll go with shorties.
__________________ 1986 Ford F-150 4x4 5.0 EFI
XLT Lariat
NP435/NP208/9" 3.50 axle
Road Warrior bumper, Leaf Spring Overloads, Custom Exhaust Work
THAT, to me, is how I like a 5.0 to sound. Now, I know I have a truck, but I love the 302/5.0, and I love that particular distinct sound.
Will I be able to achieve a sound like that? I realize I'm a truck... but I love THAT 302 sound.
EDIT: And, yes, some may think it's stupid. Some may like that deep truck sound. I just absolutely LOVE the 302 sound. Sorry, to each their own, right guys? And if the sound is impossible, fine. What pipes and headers should I be looking for to let people know it's a 302. I can tell the difference between a Dodge Hemi, Nissan Titan, Ford 5.0 vs 4.6, and 350's and LS1's. If my truck can't sound like that, what's the next best thing.
I want a mean sounding exhaust. Flowmasters are blowmasters, but I don't have enough power to matter. Flowmaster and the 5.0 is a good sounding combo.
__________________ 1986 Ford F-150 4x4 5.0 EFI
XLT Lariat
NP435/NP208/9" 3.50 axle
Road Warrior bumper, Leaf Spring Overloads, Custom Exhaust Work
For headers for your truck, try Dynomax part #85054.
They should fit without issues.
__________________
86 F250 HD, 4x4/460/T19/44HD/10.25
82 F100/86 F350 4x4 460 with some goodies/T19 D60/welded 10.25/38.5 Boggers, mud racer/wheeling pig...
81 F100/86 F250 HD 4x4, 6.9/T19/D44 TTB junk/10.25. All smoke, no power, turbo no more...
And a couple Brand D's with early "C" power It's not what you BUY, It's what you BUILD
The issue I have with saying the shorties made "more TQ" is that while it's technically true in this case it's not telling the whole story. The "more" comes above 3000rpm on this motor, and that's all but irrelevent to this thread.
What you also have to realize is that this test was done on a mustang with an aftermarket dual 2.5" exhaust system with no cats, this will flow sooooo much better than the stock truck exhaust it's not funny. This is very important because in this thread we are talking about comparing shorties that will get bolted up to the stock truck exhaust system and longtubes that will get all new plumbing behind them. It's really an unfair comparison, but it's also the reason why there will be such a hugh difference in the power produced by the two setups. From experience I can tell you longtubes will produce substantial TQ gains over stock right from idle up, they are easily worth the hastle IMO.
I couldn't find a listing for longtube headers for standard transmissions at Summit. Jegs lists the Hedman 89350's and makes no mention of transmission. Summit so no on standard for same. I'm starting to wonder about the accuracy of the listings at Summit because it blows my mind that none of them fit and I've never seen a header listed by transmission anywhere else. I just googled up a set of Pacesetters for $201 from Alamo motorsports and again-no mention of transmission. Maybe you should go to Summit's customer service and ask about it or at Jegs.
Those Dynomax headers, 85054, are listed, again, for automatics only!
dont know what differences it would make , the dynomax headers 85054 fit onto my 80 f150 4x4 5.0 .....it has the manual linkage for the clutch not the hydraulic setup
ps summit does list the same headers for a 86 2wd with the 5.0
ps summit does list the same headers for a 86 2wd with the 5.0
By George- they do- and they list them as yes to manual trans. I don't know how I missed that! Also since my last post, I have found 2 or 3 listings that do specify auto only on ebay, so I guess Summit's application tables may be correct after all.
What you also have to realize is that this test was done on a mustang with an aftermarket dual 2.5" exhaust system with no cats, this will flow sooooo much better than the stock truck exhaust it's not funny. This is very important because in this thread we are talking about comparing shorties that will get bolted up to the stock truck exhaust system and longtubes that will get all new plumbing behind them. It's really an unfair comparison, but it's also the reason why there will be such a hugh difference in the power produced by the two setups. From experience I can tell you longtubes will produce substantial TQ gains over stock right from idle up, they are easily worth the hastle IMO.
Well, just so everyone knows.
When I decide on headers, they WILL be put on with true duals. I will be doing whatever it is I'm going to do before August. Just want what's best and what's going to work. But, yes, no cats/true duals are going in the set up, and probably coming out of Flowmaster 40's, maybe 44's. I just need to hear the best sound.
__________________ 1986 Ford F-150 4x4 5.0 EFI
XLT Lariat
NP435/NP208/9" 3.50 axle
Road Warrior bumper, Leaf Spring Overloads, Custom Exhaust Work
ICEMANV8- did you see the last posts about the longtubes? That's the way to go. They're only like $150 as well. It's still a good idea to run the heat shield on the slave as well as the starter, and I would wrap them to keep underhood temps down as well. THEY FIT MANUALS-do a kittle happy dance!
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