I have a 78 f250 that I am doing a custom build to my specs. It has the dana 44 front axle. I have come across a dana 60 for $100 complete, out of a 79 f250. What if any problems will I run across to swap out the 44 for the 60? Any differences in the steering or the driveshafts? I would think the 60 would have larger u-joints but I'm not sure. If the u-joints are larger, will I need the transfer case yoke and drive shaft?
Thank you for any help you can give me. I'd hate to get the diff and run into all kinds of problems.
A high pinion '79 Dana 60 for $100, thats an incredible deal, those go for $1200 or more around here. That axle will bolt in your truck, the steering will hook right up, the only difference is the driveshaft needs to be shorter for the dana 60.
__________________ '77 F-150 short bed,Dana 60 front factory coil spring suspension,Dana 60 rear 4.10 gears,460 with Holley 750, L&L fenderwell headers,150 shot NOS, ZF 5 speed trans,205 transfer case twin stick conversion,35 inch Boggers,sand scoops for the rear,onboard air,stainless Magnaflow exhaust
You may or may not have to change the u-joints, but you will have to change the length of the shaft. Since the ring gear is so much larger than the D44, the big axle will require a shorter driveshaft.
The push pull steering is not a favorite, and you already have the desireable steering box. A quick change with the pitman arm, and a new steering arm that bolts to the pass side knuckle will really make for a nice steering set-up. This is provided that you have enough clearance, and that you have lifted the truck some.
This is also a good time to perform a u-bolt flip, if this upgrade is even of any benifit to your type of off roading.
Should also verify that the ratios are correct, or the t-case is going to be very upset.
I dont want to question the price of that 79 d60f but are you sure that is a 79, and not a closed knuckle early 60?
The 79 front axle brings a bunch of money, and closed knuckle front axles will run about 100 or so bucks. ALso verify the spring pad width. Even though later model axles were available with king pins, the short side axle tube will not be a direct bolt up to your trucks.
If it is truly a 79 front axle, you have scored a real gem.
Well I'm not 100% it's a 79. 78 and older have no emissions to speak of, this engine had all kinds of emission crap on it, there for I take a stab at saying it's a 79. I'm also going to say it is an open knuckle as I can see the axle shafts and u-joints at both wheels.
If the drive shaft needs to be shorter, can't I just use the drive shaft that is on the d60 now? Will it bolt up to my transfer case?
As for the gear set, no big deal. As with everything on this build it will be taken apart and redone.
Not sure what a U bolt flip is but the truck is not so much an off road toy as it will be a heavy duty work truck, that will see some off roading.
Can you tell me more about the steering change you speak of.
Quote:
A quick change with the pitman arm, and a new steering arm that bolts to the pass side knuckle will really make for a nice steering set-up.
stock steering (push pull) is plagued with all sorts of problems. It has bumpsteer, roll steer, and severe understeer during suspension cycles. These are compounded when the truck is raised, and or larger tires are installed.
Note* crossover steering is not for everyone, and the stock system may be adequate for stock type rigs that may never see off raod duty.
I feel that all trucks can benifit from a better steering design, but this is only my opinion, and I do see that the modification may not be justified for stock vehicles.
At any rate, a crossover design incorprates a drag link that attaches to the pa side knuckle, and allows the truck to use a long drag link, and converts the box from a push pull design, to a better working design that sweeps from left to right.
The longer drag link will have less angle, and is less effected by angle changes during normal suspension cycles. See when the drag short link of the push pull system has to move at an arch during this cycle, it is often a different arch than the axle moves at, and this is where the problems begin.
Click on this link to read more, This is actually a great explaination, and has some pics. Yes I am aware that it is a chevy here, but the concepts of the push pull steering is the same, and every otem here applies to our old fords.
You truck is easy to convert provided you have enough lift to accomodate this, and it is a good design, but again may not be justified for a work type vehicle that will see limited off road, and little lift.
If you have the driveshaft from the donor truck, then it will be the correct length, and you should be good to go.
I went back to take a better look at the truck and get some info. I have no idea what year it is. The axle tag says D8TA, so that's a 78. All the emissions on the engine tell me it's a 79. The vin and body say it's a 75. After checking all the info on the VIN tag I have to say the body has been changed, as none of the info matches what is on the truck. Also, if it were a 75 it would have the narrow frame and it does not.
So it has to be a 78-79 f250. It is a dana 60, due to the 4" hubs. As far as the drive shaft goes I think it will all need changed. My truck has 3 1/2" yoke and the d60f has a 3 7/8 yoke.
So am I missing anything or does this seem like a straight forward swap? and all for 100 bucks!!
That seems like a very straigh foward swap, but there are other identifying items that will determine whether or not you have a 60, or a 44HD.
Large hubs were found on 44HD's and are often mistaken for 60's.
Again I am not arguing the fact, I am jealous actually. For 100 bucks, that is a song.
You have checked that you have an open knuckle, so then you can just look to see that it has king pins and not ball joints. You can then check the size of the bolts holding the inspection cover. A 9/16" head would confirm a 60, and a 1/2" head would indicate a 44.
The rest is an easy swap, for the u-joint you can actually just slide the slip yoke apart, and use the end (splines are the same) or replace the t-case yoke, and use the d-shaft ouot of the donor truck.
The shaft is really the easy part of the whole thing.
Great deal again for 100 bucks. Wish I could get so lucky.
I can't say I remember what the top joint looked like but the bottom was strange looking. Kind of squared off and four bolts holding it on, I think. It was hard to see through the rock hard mud and I didn't have anything to really scrape it off, but it did not look like any balljoint I have ever seen.
On a side note, this donor has sway bars front and back, been thinking about getting them with the rest of the stuff. I'm thinking they should help on the road when I have a load or trailer. Any thoughts?
Well 4 bolts would indicate a king pin, since the ball joint has nothing but a ball joint. The top will just about look the same with a very straight driver side steering arm, and the D44 has a hooked arm, and three bolts holding it to the knuckle.
Again, good find, that is what most of us are looking for.
As far as your sway bar, they are decent to have, but I have always removed them, in favor of maximum suspension travel. I do not ow much, so I am not the advocate here, but for your application, I dont see why they would not be a decent option.
Wow, if thats what you have found for $100, your one lucky dude!
75F350 has it right, altho this type of steering has gotten us nearly or more 30 years of service, if you go big, then ya, xover. I do not rock crawl, never will, I have 4wd to get around that crap, or if cannot go around, then choose another place.
All that fancy suspension stuff is nice, if the local authorities like it, if not, expect fines and tow bills. Or be prepared to provide documentation for modifications and any welding.
Not to bash ya 75F350, or any other rock crawlers, just not my thing.
__________________
74 F-250 Ranger XLT 4x4 highboy, 429ci,
C6 auto w. shiftkit-married setup shifted by B&M.
Lpg powered, fired by duraspark and gm hei upgrade.
320 litre box mounted tank.
130 amp 3g alternator upgrade.
PMGR starter upgrade.
3" body lift.
35" Yokohama muds.
Dana 44HD/Dana 60 powrloc 4:10 gears. 79 Dana 60 front soon to be.
