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Old 07-01-2008, 12:01 PM
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1995 engine assembly

I just got my motor back from the shop, now its my turn to finish the assmebly.. I have a few newbie questions

1. does anyone have a good picture of which bolts go where on the water pump, as far as the long bolts, that something else also bolts onto?

2. when installing my new intake manifold(edelbrock air gap) do i need to use rtv sealer on both sides of the gasket( the side that goes to the heads, and the side that goes to the manifold?

3. same as number 2 but for the oil pan

4. any detailed pics of the whole assembled of the front of the engine that bolts to the heads( brackets that hold the alt,ps, coil, etc..)
   
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Old 07-01-2008, 12:25 PM
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look thru your haynes manual, should show and tell what you need to know.
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Old 07-01-2008, 12:30 PM
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the pictures dont show the bolts for the water pump.. i need to know where the long ones with another thread and nut go, i think the alt, and ps brackets bolt up to the treads???
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Old 07-01-2008, 04:35 PM
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En

The four very long bolts/studs go all the way through the water pump, timing cover and thread into the block. The shorter ones thread into the timing cover. To double check, hold the parts in place, and place the screw in its hole, without screwing it in. There should be about a half inch space now between the fastener and pump body, indicating that there will be about a half inch of thread engagement.

You didn't say whether you have a 302 or 351. On my 1994 351, this is the location of the four long capscrews / studs:

Upper right- stud with 5/16" threads sticking out.
Lower right- Plain capscrew.
Upper left- stud with 5/16" plain rod sticking out.
Lower left- stud with 3/8" threads sticking out.

Right is right side of vehicle with parts installed.
N.B.: On my engine, these studs aren't used.



I would not use silicone on the gaskets except for possibly the end seals of the intake manifold, and even there, sparingly. The intake manifold gasket should already have silicone bead printed on around the ports. The one piece oil pan gasket does not need any sealer, the older three piece type can use some "black goo" type sealer. Silicone is risky because excess tends to squeeze out as drops inside the engine, which cure and can get through the oil pump pickup screen, clogging the oil pump pressure relief valve or an oil passage with disastrous results.
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Old 07-01-2008, 04:41 PM
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thanks!!! so the right side is the drivers side? any pictures?
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Old 07-01-2008, 05:53 PM
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Bolt location

Sorry, no pictures as the wife is away with the camera. Left side is driver's side in the US and Canada.

Right side is right side of driver when seated in vehicle. Steering wheel is on left side.
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Old 07-01-2008, 06:27 PM
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Use Gasgacinch on the manifold/oil pan/valve cover/water pump gaskets.

Use beads of black RTV instead of the cork end seals for the intake manifold. Some small dabs of RTV at the four corners of the front/rear oil seals on the oil pan gasket helps stop leaks.
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Old 07-02-2008, 01:03 PM
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ok the motor is a 351w.. i think i have everything figured out.. I just need a few torque notes..


what do I torque the crankshaft pulley to? how about the oil pan bolts?
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Old 07-02-2008, 05:44 PM
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so I was told 15ft lbs on the oil pan..

now does anyone know what to torque the crankshapt pullet to? thanks...
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Old 07-02-2008, 06:20 PM
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35-50 pd/ft.
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Old 07-03-2008, 09:42 AM
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thanks!!!

last question... im using an aftermarket milodon oil pan, I have a one piece rubber seal, do i also need to use the two metal rail things? if so what order do they go on... rubber gasket to the motor or to the pan?
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