Broken easyout! any suggestions.

mklemin · #1 (**permalink**) 07-01-2008, 01:02 AM

So i was pullin off my steering wheel and the puller had like a ball that broke off where my steering wheel bolts on. the only way i could think to remove the "ball" was to drill a hole in it and try to use the easy out and just back it out of the threads. so i tried this and the easy out broke off. sinc its hardened steel all it will do is dull a drill bit. does any body have ny suggestions? i didnt think that little "ball" would be stuck in there that hard. i was thinking of just cutting off the tip of the steering shaft to get a hold of the "ball". anybody think this would be a bad thing? i hope not because i am going to try this tomorrow. i know this was really long winded for such a little problem. i appreciate it.

kawa · #2 (**permalink**) 07-01-2008, 04:04 AM

If there is enough sticking out or if it is accessible a piece of bolt or something similar can be welded onto it so that it can be removed,

That's one way.

Rog

superduty4x4 · #3 (**permalink**) 07-01-2008, 04:08 AM

If you or someone you know is handy with a plasma torch, a quick zap on the broken easy out will shatter it. I emphasize QUICK, because you don't want the plasma to start cutting other stuff. Rog's idea is probably way better than mine.

tjbeggs · #4 (**permalink**) 07-01-2008, 08:09 AM

Does the ball interfere with the nut going back on? I am guessing it does since your trying to get it our but if there is any way to grind it down to get the nut back on and forget about it I would do that. Just remember if you use a grinder the sparks can speckle your glass so cover the windows.

MagKarl · #5 (**permalink**) 07-01-2008, 10:10 PM

I usually try to weld on the broken part until I've got something to get a good hold on. It helps if you put a washer over the spot you're working on to act as a shield so that only the part you want to build up gets filler and you reduce the chance of fusing the tool in there permanently. The washer also gives you another place to grab hold of it. I have removed broken drill bits and taps this way.

mklemin · #6 (**permalink**) 07-01-2008, 10:11 PM

Hey guys i appreciat the suggestions. i didnt have any sticking out and i didnt have anyone with a plasma real handy so i couldnt do those suggestions. Tj my wheel isnt bolted on with a nut it has an actual bolt threaded into the shaft and thats where the ball was stuck. i just cut part of the shaft, not much just enough to get the ball out. then finnished my buisness. thanks for the advice any ways. has anyone had the problem where there was alot of play in you steering wheel not play as in driving but up down and side to side?? mine did and it was a broken spring in there so i replaced it, a $15 part from Ford, and it didnt totally fix it. but also it didnt seem to be the same exact thing either. i dont know but i dont like the play i like it to e tight.

superduty4x4 · #7 (**permalink**) 07-02-2008, 11:25 AM

mklemin- there should be a bearing somewhere on the steering shaft that is easy to replace. I had to do it on my 92 back when I had it- the wheel was flopping all over the place.

AndysFords · #8 (**permalink**) 07-02-2008, 01:03 PM

A guy I used to work for had a special welding rod that cost $10 a piece he could bead something from down in a hole all the way up and weld a nut on it, then turn it out. He used it to remove broken head bolts inside engine blocks.

tjbeggs · #9 (**permalink**) 07-02-2008, 01:16 PM

That right I forgot our wheels use a bolt and not a nut. There are very small ball bearings under the steering wheel that can be replaced but it is not an easy job. you can do the top bearing without tearing the whole column apart but when I did mine there is no way to pop the old bearing out of the cast aluminum so I drills two holes next to the bearing in the casting and then got under the bearing with a punch and was able to remove it. Took alot of time but I was not about to take apart the column that day.

mb_01sc · #10 (**permalink**) 07-02-2008, 01:56 PM

I ended up taking it to the stealership to get the fix done - to repeat what's already been said: spring, and outer bearing are easy to get to, but if the outer bearing is toast it means the inner one has enough play to cause failure of the outermost bearing as well.

If you replace just the outer bearing and the spring it will not last - I believe the previous owner had completed that quick fix just before I bought the truck and it lasted less than 5K miles.

I had to replace parts 5,6,7,8 and 9 from the diagram on this page:
Victoria British - Catalog FD - Page 115

9 (the steering shaft) probably wasn't necessary (and was the only expensive part in the repair) because it didn't look worn down at all but I bought this truck to put 100K plus on it so I didn't want to be back in there.

I believe getting the shaft loose from the housing to get to the bearing is going to be the most difficult part.

beansdiesel · #11 (**permalink**) 07-02-2008, 10:47 PM

A carbide drill bit will drill the easy out next time you run into that.

Talyn · #12 (**permalink**) 07-03-2008, 09:30 AM

I generally do not trust easy outs.
I would have drilled and taped it then used a bolt to get it out.

Next time you use an easy out in that situation, might need a drop of oil. You mighta got er a little warm. =)
And remember to drill slow or by hand.

mklemin · #13 (**permalink**) 07-04-2008, 01:39 AM

thanks guys these all sounded like great sugestions.