I had to jump start my truck this morning and after I got it started it spit 2 cd's out of the stereo saying they were bad. On the way to the dump a little later the stereo just died, no power, the "ABS" light came on, sometimes when I applied the brake it pulled hard to the left. All the gauges on the dash turned off, then would come back on again, the windows wouldn't roll up. The air conditioning never failed (110 degrees today). When I was almost home the truck died for a split second then came back on again. When I got home I turned it off. Now there is now power. Whew! Is it probably the batteries? They are Energizer batteries from 09/2006. Thank you in advance. My aftermarket gauges were ok for a few minutes then they started going wacky.
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Jonathan
2004 F250 PSD SB King Ranch 4x4:Build Date: 01/23/2004
Dieselsite Coolant Bypass Filter, High Idle Mod
Fumoto Oil Drain Valve, Harpoon Mod, Zoodad
Isspro 40 PSI Boost, Water Temp, Oil Temp and Trans Temp
Sounds to me that the batteries are shot. If you are going to have the truck sitting for a while without starting/driving it you should get a battery tender and install it. You would be amazed at the symptoms you get with dead batterys. Also if you drive it like that you may ruin the alternator too. Just check for corrosion and make sure the cables are good and tight. Other than that you may have a warranty on those batteries or they may be able to prorate them. Good luck and keep us posted.
Sarge
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2006 F-350 PSD Lariat Crew FX4 ALL BLACK
Banks Techni Cooler
Banks Big Mouth Intake Pipe
Banks High Ram Intake
Banks Monster Exhaust Turbo Back
BD Diesel Exhaust Brake
BD Diesel Torque Converter Pressure Controller
Air Ride Air Bags
Deep Sump Trans and Rear Diff. Pans
No-Shrink Tonneau Cover
Sounds to me that the batteries are shot. If you are going to have the truck sitting for a while without starting/driving it you should get a battery tender and install it. You would be amazed at the symptoms you get with dead batterys. Also if you drive it like that you may ruin the alternator too. Just check for corrosion and make sure the cables are good and tight. Other than that you may have a warranty on those batteries or they may be able to prorate them. Good luck and keep us posted.
Sarge
Thank you for the quick reply! I just unhook both batteries and tested them: The drivers side read 13.40 volts and the passenger side read 12.74 volts. I unhooked the aftermarket gauges and still the same. It will not start. I cleaned all the posts and battery connectors and put them back together. It still will not start.
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Jonathan
2004 F250 PSD SB King Ranch 4x4:Build Date: 01/23/2004
Dieselsite Coolant Bypass Filter, High Idle Mod
Fumoto Oil Drain Valve, Harpoon Mod, Zoodad
Isspro 40 PSI Boost, Water Temp, Oil Temp and Trans Temp
What year is your truck, also how many miles on it. Hopefully you jumped it correctly..not to sound like a Smart a$$. If you didnt do it maybe they crossed the cables. Also if you could have someone crank it while you check voltage at the batteries. Static voltage may be ok but cranking voltage may be too low. Also check for a corroded cable at both ends if you can. That will also do some messed up stuff. Make sure the ground cable is good as well.
Sarge
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2006 F-350 PSD Lariat Crew FX4 ALL BLACK
Banks Techni Cooler
Banks Big Mouth Intake Pipe
Banks High Ram Intake
Banks Monster Exhaust Turbo Back
BD Diesel Exhaust Brake
BD Diesel Torque Converter Pressure Controller
Air Ride Air Bags
Deep Sump Trans and Rear Diff. Pans
No-Shrink Tonneau Cover
What year is your truck, also how many miles on it. Hopefully you jumped it correctly..not to sound like a Smart a$$. If you didnt do it maybe they crossed the cables. Also if you could have someone crank it while you check voltage at the batteries. Static voltage may be ok but cranking voltage may be too low. Also check for a corroded cable at both ends if you can. That will also do some messed up stuff. Make sure the ground cable is good as well.
Sarge
I just checked the voltage with everything hooked up and it reads 10.70 volts. When I crank it it just clicks like a dead battery. Before I cleaned all the terminals and connectors it did nothing. My truck is a 2004 and I have just over 71,000 miles on it. lol ... I did jump it correctly but you have to ask all questions when troubleshooting, sometimes it the real simple things that are wrong. Thanks again. Is 10.7 volts not enough to crank it over?
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Jonathan
2004 F250 PSD SB King Ranch 4x4:Build Date: 01/23/2004
Dieselsite Coolant Bypass Filter, High Idle Mod
Fumoto Oil Drain Valve, Harpoon Mod, Zoodad
Isspro 40 PSI Boost, Water Temp, Oil Temp and Trans Temp
10.7 volts means multiple cells in the battery(ies) have completely failed, and/or your alternator is not doing its job.
Even if it is just your alternator going dead, 10.7 volts for that long has probably permanently damaged your batteries beyond saving them now.
Get new batteries in, and start the truck, it should be between 13.6 and 14.2 volts.
Thanks for the reply, I just hooked up the jumper cables to my wifes car and I tested the batteries again and now they are 13.36 volts, still not enough to start it but the stereo came back on...lol. If only one battery is bad do I still need to buy two?
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Jonathan
2004 F250 PSD SB King Ranch 4x4:Build Date: 01/23/2004
Dieselsite Coolant Bypass Filter, High Idle Mod
Fumoto Oil Drain Valve, Harpoon Mod, Zoodad
Isspro 40 PSI Boost, Water Temp, Oil Temp and Trans Temp
Thanks for the reply, I just hooked up the jumper cables to my wifes car and I tested the batteries again and now they are 13.36 volts, still not enough to start it but the stereo came back on...lol. If only one battery is bad do I still need to buy two?
Yes, the batteries are in parallel as you know, so both were at 10.7 volts, sulfating the plates and damaging them. If you replace the "True" dead one, and leave the other, the other one will eventually kill the new battery
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- Ian
1987 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 2.9
Needs a lot of work, including some rot on the body, but shes getting there.
Yes, the batteries are in parallel as you know, so both were at 10.7 volts, sulfating the plates and damaging them. If you replace the "True" dead one, and leave the other, the other one will eventually kill the new battery
I was only reaching... I figured I might as well ask the question. I actually had to jump start it a few weeks ago when it was a really hot day. My truck sits outside in the baking sun all day long so I think it's having a toll on the batteries. I just need to limp untill Thursday (payday). Thanks for all your help.
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Jonathan
2004 F250 PSD SB King Ranch 4x4:Build Date: 01/23/2004
Dieselsite Coolant Bypass Filter, High Idle Mod
Fumoto Oil Drain Valve, Harpoon Mod, Zoodad
Isspro 40 PSI Boost, Water Temp, Oil Temp and Trans Temp
Update: The batteries lasted this long, as long as I ran the truck everyday. This past Sunday night I started it up after it sat for 1 day and it almost didn't start. This morning it had starting issues and after I got to work I went out at lunch and it was dead. Pepboys tested them and said they were shot. $228 later I have 2 new batteries and everything is fine. Thank you everyone for your input.
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Jonathan
2004 F250 PSD SB King Ranch 4x4:Build Date: 01/23/2004
Dieselsite Coolant Bypass Filter, High Idle Mod
Fumoto Oil Drain Valve, Harpoon Mod, Zoodad
Isspro 40 PSI Boost, Water Temp, Oil Temp and Trans Temp
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