1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

1995 F-350 7.3 Powerstroke being a pain.

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Old 06-22-2008, 01:58 PM
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Unhappy 1995 F-350 7.3 Powerstroke being a pain.

Yep, still working on that same truck. Any help would be great, before it sends me to the crazy house.

Just to remind you, here's a little history on the truck, and what we have done. The truck was given to someone as junk, but he wanted it fixed.

In the very beginning, the wiring harness was replaced, and the truck was running, but smoking like crazy. Then, the truck went to the Ford dealership to get checked, and they said that the #5 piston was bad. We then drove the truck home ( about an hour away ), still smoking like crazy, but it had power and all. Hubby removed the engine, and replaced the number 5 piston. The motor sat outside for months ( covered, of course ) until the guy wanted to get the part(s) to fix it. Hubby never thought to cover the engine compartment for that time, ( first, and hopefully the last 1995 PSD he is going to work on ). On the side with the piston he replaced, he had a screw, spring, and a filter that he found or took off/and lost, and has no idea where it went. We replaced the CPS, the injector module, he bought a computer ( yes, numbers do match ) and tried that, but still not running. We can start it with starting fluid, but will only run for about 10 to 15 minutes then it stalls. After it stalls, you cannot even start it for a few hours later. No smoke whatsoever. And now, it's getting harder and harder to start. He has checked the HPOP, it is full. Checked fuel pressure, had 40psi. All fuses are fine. All fusible links are ok. Called and talked to another ford dealership, and he said it sounded like it was either the CPS, or that we needed to reset the inertia switch. We have not located the switch. He has checked the injectors, and he somewhat thinks that it is not getting the fuel it needs, but can't figure out why. No corrosion anywhere.

Had a few more questions.
1. When you turn the key on, is the check engine light supposed to stay on until the truck is started? If it is, ours is not staying on, and cannot find a scanner anywhere to use to check codes. Any suggestions on this?

2. Where, if this truck has one, is the fuel shutoff switch located?

Any other ideas or suggestions, please let them come, this truck is driving us crazy, and we are ready to give her a "proper burial", aka the scrap yard.
 
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Old 06-22-2008, 02:29 PM
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I'am sure some of the PSD gurus well come and help, till them i well try and give a helping hand. Please don't use starting fluild on our motors not good on them.
There is no fuel shut off on your trucks.
It takes oil to fire the injectors need to bleed the air out of the hpo rails
make sure the batterys are fully charged
check and see if the glow plugs are working
the check engine light well go out after a few seconds after the key is turned on
hope this gives you a starting point
 
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Old 06-22-2008, 02:42 PM
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the check engine light does not stay on until the truck is started. also by using starting fluid you take the chance of pitting the pistons and having to replace them. try shimming the fuel pressure regulator to get fuel pressure up. take it to a shop that has either a snap on scanner or somthing that can do injector buzz tests and cylinder contribution test and get them to test the truck. let us know what else you find on it.
 
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Old 06-22-2008, 02:51 PM
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How do you bleed the air out of the hpo rails? First and last psd for us to work on. We own a 88 7.3, won't be getting rid of that one, but that psd, well, that's a different story. lol
 
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Old 06-22-2008, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Smurfy_Cat
How do you bleed the air out of the hpo rails? First and last psd for us to work on. We own a 88 7.3, won't be getting rid of that one, but that psd, well, that's a different story. lol
I just crank and crank the motor until it fires. usually i think about 15 seconds of cranking. If it doesnt start i let it sit for a minute and crank again. should start after 1 or 2 trys. Then i figure it usually takes about 20 miles of hard driving before all the air is completely out. It will crank a little longer when you start the motor until the air is bled out.
 
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Old 06-22-2008, 03:08 PM
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On the side with the piston he replaced, he had a screw, spring, and a filter that he found or took off/and lost, and has no idea where it went
Have you replaced the screw, spring, and a filter that was lost???
Can you show us where this is located?

will only run for about 10 to 15 minutes then it stalls. After it stalls, you cannot even start it for a few hours later.
IPR O'rings are shot.

Checked fuel pressure, had 40psi.
That's a bit low. The engine may not be spinning fast enough. Be sure your batteries are fully charged and all the starter connections a clean and tight. These engines need all the power 2 batteries can give to get going.
Called and talked to another ford dealership, and he said it sounded like it was either the CPS, or that we needed to reset the inertia switch.


Dealership doesn't know that the fuel pump is mechanical. There is no inertia switch. Stay away from that dealership.
 
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Old 06-22-2008, 03:25 PM
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Was it this one?

It's the check valve for the HPOP
 
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Old 06-22-2008, 03:57 PM
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Where does the check valve for the HPOP go?
What is the fuel pressure supposed to be on this truck?
No, the spring, screw and filter was NOT replaced, for we do not know where they went.
Where are, and where do the IPR orings go? Is this a dealer part only, or can i go to like, auto zone or something like that to get them?
 
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Old 06-22-2008, 04:15 PM
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Is the picture I posted above the lost parts?
That is the check valve for the HPOP

No, the spring, screw and filter was NOT replaced, for we do not know where they went.
With out knowing this I probably can't be much help.
Let us know when you discover where they went.
 
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Old 06-22-2008, 05:35 PM
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Where are, and where do the IPR orings go? Is this a dealer part only, or can i go to like, auto zone or something like that to get them?
The IPR is on the rear of the HPOP, Center/front of the engine.
Here's the 'skinny' on IPR oring repair.
New Page 0

Use the link in my signature for part numbers.
 
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Old 06-23-2008, 09:10 AM
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Cuda is a great help here. Need reps sent...
The fuel pressure on mine was 55 before I shimmed it. Not sure on the minimum but after shimming I wouldn't go above 80 psi.
 
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Old 06-23-2008, 11:04 AM
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Thanks Neal, it's going to be pretty hard to help if they don't figure out where the missing parts went to. The only other place I can think of is the FPR screw, spring, and a maybe a filter?? Could be the reason for low fuel pressure? Hmmm
 
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Old 06-23-2008, 01:00 PM
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I was thinking FPR spring also but I am not sure which one she means. Is that pic like the one lost or is it smaller like the FPR setup.

P.S. Cuda you deserve them I just can't get ya right now.
 
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Old 06-23-2008, 05:41 PM
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Can you tell me where the FPR screw is SUPPOSED to go? FPR, is that a Fuel Pressure Regulator? Anyone have a picture of it? Also, what should the fuel pressure be on this truck? And how do you do that "shim" thing? ( Asking for myself, for I am nosy, hubby probably knows )
 
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Old 06-24-2008, 03:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Smurfy_Cat
Can you tell me where the FPR screw is SUPPOSED to go? FPR, is that a Fuel Pressure Regulator? Anyone have a picture of it? Also, what should the fuel pressure be on this truck? And how do you do that "shim" thing? ( Asking for myself, for I am nosy, hubby probably knows )
Yep, Fuel Pressure Regulator. It's on the driver side of the fuel filter.




The fuel pressure should be 40 psi minimum.

Here's the shim. It's the small ball bearing.

 


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