Electronic Cooling Fan Install
#1
Electronic Cooling Fan Install
As promised, I documented the process to install an electronic fan from a Ford Taurus into my 1986 Ford Bronco (Fullsize). I will list the parts/numbers and what each part cost me and then take you through a step-by-step install. I did a lot of searching out there specific to my needs in order to find others who have done the install with the details I was looking for. I could never find an install that showed me a good wiring diagram that took a Continuous Duty Relay (85amp) into consideration. I will include a detailed wiring diagram for this install.
Now you say, "why would you want to change from the mechanical fan to an e-fan?" Several reasons; 2 mpg gas savings and 16 additional HPs. Also, the mechanical fan causes wear and tear to the water pump...if it's not there, the water pump lasts longer.
What you will need:
1) Ford Taurus E-fan from a 3.8L vehicle. I used a a 95 Tarus fan. These fans (single) will pull 45000 cfm. = $37 from the junk yard
2) Hayden/Imperial Fan Controller #3647 - this has the termostat/temp probe which will trigger your fan. = $34 from O'Reilly's
3) Continuous Duty Relay (75-85amp) - Borge Warner Part s55 or Napa (Eichlan) st85 = $42 from O'Reilly's
4) 14 awg fuse link, 8 awg wire and 18 awg wire, eye conectors, various other connectors. = $20 approx.
5) 3amp free wheeling diode from Radio Shack = $1.59 fro two
First things is to pull one of these from the bone yard...these are much more heavy duty thn most fans you get aftermarket:
Here are some of the other parts you will need:
Now you say, "why would you want to change from the mechanical fan to an e-fan?" Several reasons; 2 mpg gas savings and 16 additional HPs. Also, the mechanical fan causes wear and tear to the water pump...if it's not there, the water pump lasts longer.
What you will need:
1) Ford Taurus E-fan from a 3.8L vehicle. I used a a 95 Tarus fan. These fans (single) will pull 45000 cfm. = $37 from the junk yard
2) Hayden/Imperial Fan Controller #3647 - this has the termostat/temp probe which will trigger your fan. = $34 from O'Reilly's
3) Continuous Duty Relay (75-85amp) - Borge Warner Part s55 or Napa (Eichlan) st85 = $42 from O'Reilly's
4) 14 awg fuse link, 8 awg wire and 18 awg wire, eye conectors, various other connectors. = $20 approx.
5) 3amp free wheeling diode from Radio Shack = $1.59 fro two
First things is to pull one of these from the bone yard...these are much more heavy duty thn most fans you get aftermarket:
Here are some of the other parts you will need:
#2
Next
Next thing is to take the mechanical fan off...if you cannot complete this step...take everything back to the store!
Ahhh less weight, less wear and tear..more HPs and better gas mileage here I come!
Next step is to fight the E-fan to your grill to determine how and where best to fit for a permanant install. Notice the rubber spacers I designed (made of spliced rubber hose), this will keep the fan from rubbing against the fins.
The bottom of the fan "may" slide into your shroud clips located at the bottom of the radiator. I found that my E-fan did not stretch all the way over to each clip. So I had to fab a bracket that would attach to the fan and then would inturn slide into the clips. A little dremmeling and a few bolts and we are good to go!
I also had to design a bracket that would hold the E-fan against the radiator. One lesson I have learned in fabbing anything...never throw away weird or misc parts. Here I found a bracket from who nows what and bent it to meet my needs. This worked PERFECT! This would later be used to mount the fan controller as well.
More to come on Monday!
Ahhh less weight, less wear and tear..more HPs and better gas mileage here I come!
Next step is to fight the E-fan to your grill to determine how and where best to fit for a permanant install. Notice the rubber spacers I designed (made of spliced rubber hose), this will keep the fan from rubbing against the fins.
The bottom of the fan "may" slide into your shroud clips located at the bottom of the radiator. I found that my E-fan did not stretch all the way over to each clip. So I had to fab a bracket that would attach to the fan and then would inturn slide into the clips. A little dremmeling and a few bolts and we are good to go!
I also had to design a bracket that would hold the E-fan against the radiator. One lesson I have learned in fabbing anything...never throw away weird or misc parts. Here I found a bracket from who nows what and bent it to meet my needs. This worked PERFECT! This would later be used to mount the fan controller as well.
More to come on Monday!
#3
I have an electric fan (aftermarket) and I didn't get 2 mpg and I couldn't tell any more power. I still like the fan. It makes the AC work better at idle and it makes it easier to work on the front of engine. I have no proof, But I believe it makes the water pump last longer.
PS Excellent post and it cost me a lot more than you.
PS Excellent post and it cost me a lot more than you.
#5
Join Date: Jan 2008
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no way that fan pulls 45,000 cfm!!! my performance flaxalite dual fans pull 4,500 cfm at full power. youre lucky to get 1,000 cfm out of that thing i would think. someone find out if that little tarus fan will actually cool a big v8 in traffic let alone towing or a/c. im not trying to be rude, im just shocked anyone would do this, be nice if i were wrong, i would go down to the salvage yard right away and pull a few!
#6
I believe the 45,000 must be a typo. The most powerful fan flexilite (dual) moves 5500 cfm. They don't have any single fan that moves even 4500. I have the flexilite 295 (dual fan) which pulls 2740-4500. (they are variable) It seems to do the job. It was the most powerful they had at the time. But I see on their site, they now have a 3300-5500. May have to upgrade. (You cant have too much AC in Florida.)
#7
yep!
no way that fan pulls 45,000 cfm!!! my performance flaxalite dual fans pull 4,500 cfm at full power. youre lucky to get 1,000 cfm out of that thing i would think. someone find out if that little tarus fan will actually cool a big v8 in traffic let alone towing or a/c. im not trying to be rude, im just shocked anyone would do this, be nice if i were wrong, i would go down to the salvage yard right away and pull a few!
And yes...this swap has been done by MANY on FSB and Pirate4x4 as well as the Jeeper sites with GREAT success...tow rigs, trail rigs even some race cars...I'm talking the single fan here. Do a search to find out more information.
One thing I did not mention that is important if you are a Bronco guy you will need to upgrade your alternator to a 3G...these are also availabel from the taurus cars and will require some modification. If you have any questions on this install I can point you to other sites with tech write ups.
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#8
The rest of the story...
The next thing I did was install the 85amp Continuous Duty Relay (CDR). This was the easiest place to get at the CDR:
I next installed the Fan Controller on the E-fan bracket using some rivets:
I was a little leary about poking a hole through my radiator fins...but the result came out great. The probe was placed near the upper radiator hose.
Onto the wiring...this is as simplistic as I can get it for all of the "non-electrical" guys...like myself. The only thing I need to add into the systems is the 3 amp diode. I will add some pics of this at a later time. The diode will bleed any electrical spikes to ground.
The only issue I had is that when I placed the yellow wire from the fan controller to an "ignition ON" wire, I found a dead wire. I reattached to a different source and now every thing works FANtastic! My suggestion would be to use your volt meter to determine what wires are ignition-on wires...such as radio, wipers, etc...they will only come on when the ignition switch as actuated.
Now there is something I'm sure I forget to mention...so let me know if you have any questions or need anymore pictures.
I next installed the Fan Controller on the E-fan bracket using some rivets:
I was a little leary about poking a hole through my radiator fins...but the result came out great. The probe was placed near the upper radiator hose.
Onto the wiring...this is as simplistic as I can get it for all of the "non-electrical" guys...like myself. The only thing I need to add into the systems is the 3 amp diode. I will add some pics of this at a later time. The diode will bleed any electrical spikes to ground.
The only issue I had is that when I placed the yellow wire from the fan controller to an "ignition ON" wire, I found a dead wire. I reattached to a different source and now every thing works FANtastic! My suggestion would be to use your volt meter to determine what wires are ignition-on wires...such as radio, wipers, etc...they will only come on when the ignition switch as actuated.
Now there is something I'm sure I forget to mention...so let me know if you have any questions or need anymore pictures.
#9
I have an electric fan (aftermarket) and I didn't get 2 mpg and I couldn't tell any more power. I still like the fan. It makes the AC work better at idle and it makes it easier to work on the front of engine. I have no proof, But I believe it makes the water pump last longer.
PS Excellent post and it cost me a lot more than you.
PS Excellent post and it cost me a lot more than you.
#10
Sorry...I must have been way tired when I was typing! I had just gotten back from being a single father to 7 boys for five days at camp! I went and looked back at my sources. For a single fan set up it is between 2000cfm and 2500cfm...depends on the source. Much more than the 1000cfm you suspected but at any rate very much sufficient to cool. The 4500cfm was for a dual fan setup. You can review another install by the Mustang guys by clicking this link: FORDMUSCLE webmagazine: Junkyard Electric Fan
And yes...this swap has been done by MANY on FSB and Pirate4x4 as well as the Jeeper sites with GREAT success...tow rigs, trail rigs even some race cars...I'm talking the single fan here. Do a search to find out more information.
One thing I did not mention that is important if you are a Bronco guy you will need to upgrade your alternator to a 3G...these are also availabel from the taurus cars and will require some modification. If you have any questions on this install I can point you to other sites with tech write ups.
And yes...this swap has been done by MANY on FSB and Pirate4x4 as well as the Jeeper sites with GREAT success...tow rigs, trail rigs even some race cars...I'm talking the single fan here. Do a search to find out more information.
One thing I did not mention that is important if you are a Bronco guy you will need to upgrade your alternator to a 3G...these are also availabel from the taurus cars and will require some modification. If you have any questions on this install I can point you to other sites with tech write ups.
On another note...I had an electrical expert contact me and state that the diodes are not necessary...I'll see what others have to say.
#12
As quoted from a friend of mine...
"Just came back from my favourite dealership and talked to the local Ford performance guru. Steve (the guru) runs a simple, single 18" Taurus fan on his 393 race car and said it was way more than enough fan for 302 and 351s. He also said it was the same fan used on 4.6 engines."
Just to give you an idea...another guy in another site was running a 460 big block and had a dual Taurus Fan setup. The single 18" should be enough to meet your needs if it is not a highly modified or blown engine. Is your truck a Daily Driuver (DD)? Or is it used mostly offroad...in either case you should be just fine!
#13
Mine is thermostatic controlled. It also is variable, so it doesn't run full blast unless it needs it. I didn't change the alternator on mine and have had no issues with it. I have no doubt that fan can keep that engine cool. But you need all you can get to make the AC work good at idle in traffic. I can still feel a difference in the AC from 30 mph to idle.
#15
Not bad........a better fan would have been from a mustang.
Most people just don't get it, E fans are WAY better then mechanical any day.
Slow speed driving is where a E fan shines the most, while rarely on at speed. A mech fan eats gas at 60 like crazy.
So if a E fan can cool a mustang, these super low HP trucks will do just fine.
BTW who tows that much with a Bronco ?????
Most people just don't get it, E fans are WAY better then mechanical any day.
Slow speed driving is where a E fan shines the most, while rarely on at speed. A mech fan eats gas at 60 like crazy.
So if a E fan can cool a mustang, these super low HP trucks will do just fine.
BTW who tows that much with a Bronco ?????