I need to replace the tie rod ends on my 87 Ranger. I rented a removel tool and it pops the tie rod end out very easy. But where im having trouble is unscrewing the old tie rod end from the clamp. I have loosend the bolt on the one side to unscrew it and its moving but a slow fight to get it out. Am i missing someting on this? Is that normal? I didnt want to loosen both bolts on the clamp? Any thought or advice. Thanks joe
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2002 F250 7.3 4x4 long bed super cab 6 speed
If the bolt is still tight on the other end of the clamp it will make it difficult to remove the tie rod because it is still clamping down on the rod end. It will take some work to get it removed too because of rust that's in the clamp with the tie rod. So, what you're experiencing is normal. You could spray some lube in there to make it come out easier. Like WD40.
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1991 Ranger XLT SC 4.0 A4LD 2wd 180,000 plus
1990 Ranger XLT SC 2.9 5spd 2wd 229,000 plus
Yes i have got one but its a fight. And i did try wd40 also. So do you think i should loosen the bolt on the other side of the clamp? I have to wait for a part i orderd before i can work on the inner tie rod. Also when i do the inner tie rod does it make sense to remove the whole thing in one piece so i can put in a vise and replace both ends? Thanks joe
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2002 F250 7.3 4x4 long bed super cab 6 speed
Yes you could loosen the other end of the clamp to help it come apart easier. Holding the other parts in a vise when you take them apart will make it go easier for those too. Just make sure you get an alignment after you're done. You don't want your truck to eat up tires after all that work was done.
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1991 Ranger XLT SC 4.0 A4LD 2wd 180,000 plus
1990 Ranger XLT SC 2.9 5spd 2wd 229,000 plus
Thanks Stan, i appreciate the input. I have had a pair of Rangers and they have both been good trucks. But i have been do for an alignment so its no big deal. I guess i want to get it close so its not so far off when i take it to an alignment shop. Thanks and i will keep you updated. Joe
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2002 F250 7.3 4x4 long bed super cab 6 speed
Don't know if it will make a difference but there are some other penetrating products to try to see if will help loosen things, PB Blaster, Kroil [not in stores] CRC freeze off, your parts store may have one or more of these, probably PB Blaster for sure. Good luck.
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97 Ranger XLT flareside 2wd 2.3 M5OD, stock everything and no a/c. Built Ford Basic.
Well i got it almost done. Funny how a project can go. What i thought whould be the hard part of the job, getting the tie rods to pop out was easy with the tool i rented. But getting the toe rod out of the clamp was tough. Im going to take the other side to work so i can use a vise to hold. Then should be ok and time for an alignment.
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2002 F250 7.3 4x4 long bed super cab 6 speed
Setting the tow in is the easiset thing you can do all it takes is a tape measure.Use a natural line in the tread pattern on the front tires. measure the front side of the front tires then measure the back side of the front tires from the same reference point then note the difference. the fronts' should be about 1/8 inch narrower then the backside. (reference shop manual for exact measurement). then turn the adjuster sleeve in or out until you get the toe in correct. In order to keep the steering wheel straight you may need to adjust both sleeves on each tie rod end.
Well i got it all done and had an alignment. Came out good and seems to drive well. I repalced 3 tierod ends, the long stereing link was ok as it was replaced before. Got by for only 87$ in parts and 53$ for the alignment, that i needed any way. Saved alot of money by doing it at home. Joe
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2002 F250 7.3 4x4 long bed super cab 6 speed
I fortunatly have an access to Truck aligner-II on my work and do aligment myself. not so easy work as it seems from first sight, especially on big buses with intependent suspention
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