Would me paying for a coolant flush now potentially prolong any egr issues do to the sand in the block? Trucks got 45k on it.

I guess the best method is just to purchase a coolant filter, eh?

 

Yes. According to grampy_jim over on tds, coolant filters are "pointless". I'll try and dig up the post. If I had read it while I was in the market for one I would have never bought it. The tech that installed it for me even said that if he had a 6.0L he wouldn't put one on. Also, to get a full flush they have to drain the block.

 

found it:

Click her for LINK

"Another poster alluded to adding a coolant filter... possibly in response to dslteks comments... Nothing would be gained since the debris that can cause grief is on the oil side of the oil cooler.... which sits in the reservoir for the HPOP. The only cure for this is if the tech takes the time to carefully inspect the new parts for any manufacturing defects and/or artifacts... Something he SHOULD be doing, anyway. After all, he IS the last step in the quality control process."

 

Finding casting sand and other crud in the 3 coolant filters I've used for the past 30,000 miles on my 6.0 has convinced me otherwise. If it's in the filter it's not in the engine.

 

Russ, how many miles did you put on your first coolant filter? I've probably got around 4k on mine and never worried about how often to change it since it is a bypass set up. I'm sure I should do it soon. lol

 

Well, I'm suffering from CRS on the details but... I believe it was right at 5,000 miles for the first filter, and 10,000 miles for the the two thereafter.

The last one didn't have too much crud inside so I've let it go for awhile now, prolly at about 12K now so it's about due.

I might have a 'maintenance weekend' for the Sooper Doody after the 4th. I'll make it a point to carve open the coolant filter and report the amount of gunk inside, or lack thereof.

I'll admit I'm much more obsessive about oil/filter changes for the 6.0 and the TorqShift!

 

The coolant filter may or may not help with the oil cooler but it will surely help reduce wear on things like seals and water pumps. I've also read posts about it keeping crud out of the coolant side of the EGR cooler. Cheap insurance in my book.

 

keewwwlll. Thanks Russ.

 

I believe its a good investment - maybe because I have one - but I have seen some ugly reservoirs with respect to solid material in them. As the EGR cooler is downstream of the oil cooler, it makes sense that if the oil cooler gets restricted due to particulates, the EGR cooler is going to overheat and suffer.

I'd be curious how many people that put a coolant filter on early ended up having EGR cooler failures?

Mark

 

I would think it would be very hard to associate lack of EGR cooler failures with coolant filters alone. I think very highly of Grampyjim at TDS, but as thedaddycat said, when you filter out sand, you are increasing the life of many components - just a no-brainer. I am puzzled by the statement that the oil cooler clogs up on the oil side. I just do not see how this could be the case, especially using synthetic oil.
FWIW:
I changed my coolant filter at:
3500 (lots of grit)
8500 (didn't look at it)
9000 (lots of grit)
3000 (it was clean, but did not cut it open)

 

cool thanks Mark. Looks like I am due.

 

For what its worth, International blames most 6.0/VT365 EGR cooler failures on low or improperly filled cooling systems containing air pockets. They advocate the use of a vacuum and fill cooling system tool. These tools use compressed shop air to place a vacuum on the system which you can use as a test for leakage, then after dropping fill hose in container of 50/50 coolant you switch a valve and your cooling system draws the coolant in till its totally filled with no air pockets.

 

Thanks for the help there all. I agree, it sounds like the best thing to do is to go external with a coolant filter.

 

Where would you hook up the vacuum line. Does international have a wirte up on this.

 

Here is a link to "Draining, Filling, and Bleeding" procedures from the Ford service manual (I pulled it for an 06 - should be the same for the other years I would think). It lists a procedure using a "RADKITPLUS" (not sure what it does) and a procedure without the "RADKITPLUS". It doesn't mention any specific procedures to take to ensure the removal of air pockets and it doesn't list any "cautions" pertaining to it. I wonder if this is part of the unresolved issues between Ford and International or if the VT365 radiator/external components are different?

origcharger - I would love to read more on this if you can post links to more info!


2006 F-Super Duty 250-550 Workshop Manual