I am seriously considering purchasing a 2007 6.0 DRW 4X4 with 26000 miles on the clock and was looking for some input on reliability of these trucks. I have always owned a Duramax in the past but this truck is such a great deal its tough to pass up. Any information will be most appreciated
Tonto
First of all no trucks are perfect. But Ford had the 6.0 sorted out well before 2007. You shouldnt have any problems as long as you stay away from high HP chips/Tuners. I have a 2007 myself and have been very happy with it.
tonto57 welcome to the best forum for powerstokes on the net. My rig is an 03 and I have been very happy with the 6.0.
I come from the 7.3 powerstroke and was concened with the 6.0 because of what I had heard.
This is what I would recomend you do (just my opion). Get the VIN number and go to a ford dealer and have an oasis report ran on it.
Good luck.
__________________
2003, f350, cc, swb, afe progaurd 7, and 4" dimond eye turbo back.(lost the cat)
Former 97, F250, cc, swb (may she rest in peace) and OBS lover.
If you are looking at used 6.0's here are a few considerations (along w/ the OASIS and CARFAX reports that are essential):
Some 6.0L weak points (things to check):
Look for signs of coolant degas bottle overflow (dry white residue on and around the degas bottle or no level in degas bottle).
Ball joints go out at 40k-70k miles.
Lots of idling can cause EGR problems. I look at the hours on the engine (if it has this monitored) and divide the miles by the hours (is it below 30? If so, may have had lots of idling). EGR valves seem to plug quickly - maybe negotiate for a new EGR valve.
Look for oil leaks - some trucks have had a lot of them
If you buy from a dealership, I would negotiate for them to install the latest flash of all 3 processors AND at least pull the EGR valve to inspect it (have them show it to you when it is out and then you need to look into the intake). If it is gunked up, have them replace the valve. If the intake is real bad, you may push them to clean it as well. Negotiating for an extended warranty is always a good thing as well.
Try to find out about the routine maintenance:
Filter change intervals on time? What kind of oil (CI4+ or CJ4 - one of these is required)? OEM filters? Look at them and see what kind they are. Aftermarket filters can cause MAJOR problems.
Find proof of Transmission being flushed - it is recommended every 30,00 miles.
Any exhaust problems visible (ie lots of white or blue smoke)? White smoke may mean an EGR cooler leak.
Check for any FLUID leaks (SPECIFICALLY OIL LEAKS - 6.0L are prone to many of these from many possible places!!)
CEL light on? Consider getting a code reader and check for DTC's.
If you can pull the EGR valve, I would do so and check for wetness or excess soot. Wetness indicates an EGR cooler leak.
The Electronic Shift on the Fly ESOF sometimes fails due to vacuum leaks. Be sure to check this out (several times in and out of 4WD).
Check for excessive wheel bearing wear (looseness) or ball joint looseness.
Check the coolant - it should have the Motorcraft Gold Coolant - anything else and there may be problems. Look in the "degas" bottle and inspect the fluid - it should be gold colored and there should be NO OIL visible.
Any evidence of a tuner (aftermarket air filter, gauges,etc). Tuners may or may not be bad. Some tuners are MURDER on the transmission. Some dealerships will cause you a lot of problems w/ them - even if you bought it that way used.
Aftermarket air systems could be a problem. Many of them (like K&N) do not filter as well and could cause issues. Up to 500 hp, the stock air system is best!
Try to find out if the original owner ever ran it empty on fuel or have plugged filters?
Then the common stuff I'm sure you know:
Look at and smell the fluids. Make sure fluids not burnt, not too thick or dirty.
Drive it - surges? Stutters? Rattles or clunks? Good acceleration? s
sluggishness?
Check the tires - should have over half the life left at this mileage - abnormal wear?
How do the brakes look? Any pads need replacement? Are the rear brakes excessively worn?
All electronics working? Especially the AC?
Dents? Air bag been replaced, etc.
See if he has any repair or maintenance records.
Take off the price for windshield dings, paint chipped, torn upholstry, etc.
Does the truck look too clean? Does it look like the oil was just changed? May be hiding something.
__________________ Mark
06 F250 CC SB ESOF FX4 Lariat 3.73LS 275/65R20
DieselSite Coolant Filter; High Idle Mod
Zoodad/Air Fury grill; Accufab Elbow; CCV filter
Fumoto; HFCM Plug; Harpooned fuel tank
JimmiJammers; Ravelco; DashDaq & britebox on deck
Line-X, CPOhighway Prod. tool box, tracrac
Fox Weatherboots; Wet Okole Seat Covers
Stanadyne Perf. & B2 for lubricity
I have an 07 and couldnt more happy with it. It has power to spare and has been an assume truck for the 10K miles it has on it. A true pleasure to drive.
__________________ 2007 F250 Lariat FX4 PSD CC SB Cat Delete Acufab Power Elbow CCV Bypass 2008 Diff Cover B&W Turn Over Ball
I have an 07 and couldnt more happy with it. It has power to spare and has been an assume truck for the 10K miles it has on it. A true pleasure to drive.
__________________ 2007 F250 Lariat FX4 PSD CC SB Cat Delete Acufab Power Elbow CCV Bypass 2008 Diff Cover B&W Turn Over Ball
If you are looking at used 6.0's here are a few considerations (along w/ the OASIS and CARFAX reports that are essential):
Some 6.0L weak points (things to check):
Look for signs of coolant degas bottle overflow (dry white residue on and around the degas bottle or no level in degas bottle).
Ball joints go out at 40k-70k miles.
Lots of idling can cause EGR problems. I look at the hours on the engine (if it has this monitored) and divide the miles by the hours (is it below 30? If so, may have had lots of idling). EGR valves seem to plug quickly - maybe negotiate for a new EGR valve.
Look for oil leaks - some trucks have had a lot of them
If you buy from a dealership, I would negotiate for them to install the latest flash of all 3 processors AND at least pull the EGR valve to inspect it (have them show it to you when it is out and then you need to look into the intake). If it is gunked up, have them replace the valve. If the intake is real bad, you may push them to clean it as well. Negotiating for an extended warranty is always a good thing as well.
Try to find out about the routine maintenance:
Filter change intervals on time? What kind of oil (CI4+ or CJ4 - one of these is required)? OEM filters? Look at them and see what kind they are. Aftermarket filters can cause MAJOR problems.
Find proof of Transmission being flushed - it is recommended every 30,00 miles.
Any exhaust problems visible (ie lots of white or blue smoke)? White smoke may mean an EGR cooler leak.
Check for any FLUID leaks (SPECIFICALLY OIL LEAKS - 6.0L are prone to many of these from many possible places!!)
CEL light on? Consider getting a code reader and check for DTC's.
If you can pull the EGR valve, I would do so and check for wetness or excess soot. Wetness indicates an EGR cooler leak.
The Electronic Shift on the Fly ESOF sometimes fails due to vacuum leaks. Be sure to check this out (several times in and out of 4WD).
Check for excessive wheel bearing wear (looseness) or ball joint looseness.
Check the coolant - it should have the Motorcraft Gold Coolant - anything else and there may be problems. Look in the "degas" bottle and inspect the fluid - it should be gold colored and there should be NO OIL visible.
Any evidence of a tuner (aftermarket air filter, gauges,etc). Tuners may or may not be bad. Some tuners are MURDER on the transmission. Some dealerships will cause you a lot of problems w/ them - even if you bought it that way used.
Aftermarket air systems could be a problem. Many of them (like K&N) do not filter as well and could cause issues. Up to 500 hp, the stock air system is best!
Try to find out if the original owner ever ran it empty on fuel or have plugged filters?
Then the common stuff I'm sure you know:
Look at and smell the fluids. Make sure fluids not burnt, not too thick or dirty.
Drive it - surges? Stutters? Rattles or clunks? Good acceleration? s
sluggishness?
Check the tires - should have over half the life left at this mileage - abnormal wear?
How do the brakes look? Any pads need replacement? Are the rear brakes excessively worn?
All electronics working? Especially the AC?
Dents? Air bag been replaced, etc.
See if he has any repair or maintenance records.
Take off the price for windshield dings, paint chipped, torn upholstry, etc.
Does the truck look too clean? Does it look like the oil was just changed? May be hiding something.
bismic you never cease to amaze me. rep points coming your way
__________________ "Ford, Because Driving A Chevy Will Give You Herpes"
2006 F-250 6.0L powerstroke cc 4X4
black leather interior
captains chairs
Amarillo special edition
westin brush guard
MBRP cat delete
Fumoto Valve
MBRP turbo back and Phantom II gauges shipped
lots of chrome..haha
tune coming soon
What a great forum with helpful people! I have printed out Bismic suggestions to take along on the next trip over to look at the 6.0.
The truck is very clean and I now have the Oasis report thanks to this forum and the truck has almost no repairs except normal maintenance. Since the truck is still under factory warranty would the reflashes be covered under warranty?
Tonto
The reflashes are covered under the warranty as long as you are having the problems that the new flash is suppose to fix. What I usually do is find out what the flash fixes then take it in and complain and they reflash it for free.
__________________ 2007 F250 Lariat FX4 PSD CC SB Cat Delete Acufab Power Elbow CCV Bypass 2008 Diff Cover B&W Turn Over Ball
bismic-----Great write-up! That deserves to go into the tech folder under "what to look for when buying used".
__________________
2005 F350 6.0 lariat supercab 4x4 long bed zf6 speed and a real work horse
Mod's-BD exhaust brake-Dura flaps
-Midwest short throw shifter-Splitz lift
-Wilson cell antenna & Amp
-Piaa back up lights-C-Betr mirrors
1999 EB expedition (Wife's)
Feeding a Farmer - Starving a terrorist - burning B100
The reflashes are covered under the warranty as long as you are having the problems that the new flash is suppose to fix. What I usually do is find out what the flash fixes then take it in and complain and they reflash it for free.
Even if you are in for warranty work they will often check to make sure everything is up to date on warranty covered trucks, hear at least.