ign key and lock trouble

renoduckman · #1 (**permalink**) 06-17-2008, 01:28 PM

My well used 87 ranger needs ign switch replaced. It acted up first by the key not snaping back to the run position. Then yesterday it wont turn at all. The more i tryed to unstick it i seemed to make it worse. Now wheel is locked too.
I havent had a chance yet to open it up yet. How hard is it to replace? If any body has any advice or help id apprecate it. Thanks joe

87 XLT · #2 (**permalink**) 06-17-2008, 02:40 PM

Replacing the electrical switch is a simple 30 minute job. Remove upper column trim & a couple of "theft proof screws." Vice grips will work.

If the lock cylinder is the culprit, it's also a simple job, but the key has to move to the run postion to release the spring loaded pin that holds it in.

renoduckman · #3 (**permalink**) 06-17-2008, 04:29 PM

Thanks 87 XLT, will give it a try when i get home.

87 XLT · #4 (**permalink**) 06-17-2008, 07:01 PM

Good luck with it.

If you do need to replace the lock cylinder, remove the lower column trim, turn the key to run and shove a small screw driver into the hole on the underside of the column. The cylinder will then pull out.

renoduckman · #5 (**permalink**) 06-17-2008, 08:58 PM

Took the trim off, not what i expected to see! But i got it working by using my very worn old key. It appears that it will work that way. Awhile back i switched to a spare key becasue the original was so worn out. From an electrical standpoint i think all is well. Do you think i should just change the lock cylinder and try that? And im assuming id get a new key with that? Also, those break away bolt heads are too low to grab with vise grips. I guess you will have to drill first? And remove the torx screws that are holding from the other side? Thanks joe

87 XLT · #6 (**permalink**) 06-17-2008, 09:27 PM

Well go figure, when I replaced the ignition switch on my 87 I had no problems with those bolts.

A lot of Rangers were recalled to have the ignition switches replaced , maybe yours was one of them & Ford used different bolts?

Since your old key works, it does sound like the lock cylinder is whats hanging up.

Best to replace it while it's still working. If it hangs up & you cant turn the key it will need to be drilled out.

Yeah, it will come with a new key.

renoduckman · #7 (**permalink**) 06-19-2008, 12:19 AM

OK changed cyl lock key, it was any easy change like you said. Now key works well and all the electric is ok. I thought i had it made but when driving the truck if you have to turn the wheel past a point like when parking there is a bump. Im guessing the lock part is damaged. The tow truck driver and myself were leaning on the wheel hard trying to unlock. It was also pulled around abit when put on a flatbed. Im guessing that something else inside the housing is worn or damaged? I dont know but i guess i have to drill out the break off bolts and lookinside where the ing switch is? Id appreciate it if you have ever dealt with this befoe and have any advice. Thanks joe

87 XLT · #8 (**permalink**) 06-19-2008, 03:41 PM

No, i've never had to mess with this.

The exploded drawing that I have shows the spring loaded steering wheel lock "pawl" is under a cover that those 2 screws you mentioned hold in place.

The wheel lock "pawl" is in the same area as the button you push to remove the key.

Yeah, i guess you will need to drill the bolts out, or can you cut a slot in them with a dremel tool and use a flat blade screwdriver?

Good luck with it.