I suspect that I have sticking or damaged valves on my 95 7.3PSD and I plan on changing the cylinder heads ....... My question is why is it nescessary to change the headbolts?... why cant they be reused, what kind of problems are likely to develop if I reuse the bolts?.... also if I have to change them where can I get the best deal on a new set?.... I dont want to get studs because I have no intention on pulling the engine.... ARP bolts sell for about 140 bucks a set and everybody recommend them.... But can I get something at a better price? I really dont want to dish out so much money on my old truck... Help!

 

I have never done head studs on a psd so I am not really sure.......I know on gassers once torqued they stretch....so basically if reused you would stretch it even more hence weakening the stud.I have always replace them on all my gassers once head is removed.

 

bolts will stretch, its a no no to reuse them. If your pulling the heads off do your self a favor and just pull the engine. It will make the job MUCH easier to do, nothing worse than laying across an engine all day. Not to mention setting down the head onto the block w/o screwing up the headgasket. The heads are very heavy.....

 

Can studs be put in one at a time to replace the bolts without removing the heads while still in truck?

 

i doubt it. im pretty sure the heads have to come off.

 

Yes it can be done one at a time. install, torque to around 90 ft lbs then once all are installed do a final torque to spec. Its pretty tough from what I understand to get the rear studs in but it can be done.

disclaimer: that is what I have heard anyway. Never done it

 

tim is right. it can be done one at a time. I have never done it in the truck, tranny was out so i just pulled engine and did studs one at a time. If you do studs in truck, you'll have to jack the cab or cut hole in firewall for socket. IMO its much easier to just pull the damn engine. afterall with the proper equipment a guy can have the engine hanging in under 4 hrs. ive done it in just under 3 hrs before....

 

That's the way I did it, one at a time. For the rears you can raise the cab. For #7 you have to loosen the pass side cab mounting bolts and remove the bolts from the drivers side and jack up that side. The old bolts can be removed without raising the cab but the studs wont go in. For # 8 you will have to jack up the pass side. If you remove all 6 cab mounts at the same time the cab will want to shift to the side, so I'd suggest you only remove one side at a time. Laying over the engine removing, replacing, torqueing and retorqueing makes for a long day.

 

X2 on bolts stretching. If one should break while your torquing it down that in its self will ruin your day. It's just not worth the chance.

On KLR650 Duel sports when you pull the fly wheel it is always recommended to buy a new bolt ($12.00) Torque is around 150-180# don't recall exactly. Many guys don't and have problems. I know of one that broke, had to pull the engine and take it to a machine shop to get it removed, Cost? Don't know but I'll bet it was more than $12.00.

JMHO,
Rog

 

yea i defiantly wouldn't reuse them. especially after the last post.

 

I really appreciate the response guys now where is the best place to get the best deal on the bolts or studs?

 

I appreciate the responses also. This a great informative site.