You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!
I have a '53 F-100 with a Flathead v-8 which has not been started in several years. I want to keep this truck stock so I take care of my engine. The motor turns fine but I want to be sure that I take all necessary steps before I try to start it.
Anything to add to this list?
1. Drain and replace coolant.
2. Drain and replace engine oil.
3. Drain and replace gasoline.
Does it make sense to pre-lube the cylinders by pulling plugs and pouring something in? What type of oil should I use for this?
Is there any way to prime the oil pump?
What are the chances that the oil pump would not work?
Hi half ton,
Glad to hear you're keeping it FLAT!!
First - draining all those fluids and replacing them is certainly a good idea.
Second - unless the engine has been disassembled since it last ran, there is likely a film of oil remaining in the bearings. So cranking/running will pull fresh oil up before anything is damaged.
If your oilpan has the large bolt-on circle that the drain plug screws into, remove it and check to see that the pump screen is clear. (Be prepared to replace the gasket on the access cover.) If the screen is full of crud, you can remove it thru the large access hole and clean it up.
In draining the old gas that has likely turned to varnish, you may find gum in the fuel tank, lines, pump, filter and carb. Don't be surprised if you need to clean it all.
Before you turn it over much or run it, its probably a good idea to pull the plugs and squirt a little motor oil into each cylinder. If you suspect that the rings might be frozen or stuck, a shot or two of something like PBlaster or Marvel Mystery Oil might help loosen things. Then fresh plugs.
After you run it much you might want to check the torque on the headbolts. They should be at 65-70#'s. Start in the center and work in a spiral toward the ends of the heads.
Let us know how it goes. - tim
Thanks for the info. I'll be giving it a try next weekend.
You seem knowledgeable about this stuff so maybe you can advise me on another issue. After drilling and removing frame rivets for crossmembers and cab mounts etc, what do you use to bolt things back together. I'm using 3/8 and 7/16 NF grade 8 bolts but I'm not sure what the right answer is for nuts. Split lock washers, nylon nuts, flange nuts or what? I imagine that its not critical but I'd like to do it right.
My expertise isn't that great - 3 years ago I bought an old pickup and began to search for what it would take to restore it or hotrod it. So I started with a complete tear-down of my 48 F1 and just this week it is officially on the road. I still have a bunch of odds and ends to finish, but that's what winter is for, right!? So take my advice with a grain of salt and a whole lot of common sense.
On the bracket bolts I'd say you're going the right direction. That's what I'd use. I followed a discussion recently about the merits of bolts versus rivets and here's what made the most sense:
Ford would have used bolts if they were cheaper than rivets.
Rodders have been using bolts as replacements for a long time with no problems.
Split lock washers and regular nuts will probably be all you'll need. Remember that the stress will be largely downward thru the cross section of the bolt rather than against the nuts.
I just did a similar replacement on radiator mounts on an 86 F150 and used bolts.
I am curious as to why you're removing the brackets - rust or relocation body parts?? Anyway, have fun. Easiest way I found was to attack them with the 4" grinder. - tim
I work for General Motors in Canada and when we have a defective shackle mount we replace the rivets with a bolt , split lock washer , and nut combination as to the grade of the bolt I don't think you need to spend the money on grade 8 bolts as the original rivets are pretty soft .
I agree with wired on the bolts to replace the crossmember, have done the same thing on my 45. Jus make sure to find bolts that have shoulders the thickness of the metal (both pieces) and have areal snug fit. If you have to tap the shoulder in with a hammer, so much the better.
'45 PU, ',47 Roadster PU
'47 Mercury PU,'47 1 1/2 ton
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. FordŽ is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.