Need driveshaft U-joint help
#1
Need driveshaft U-joint help
First I would like to say thanks to everyone who has helped me on this site. You guys rock!!!!!!! I have saved a lot of money by the help I have gotten here. Now my next question. When I put my 2000 f250 into drive or reverse it makes a loud clunk. I have greased the slip yoke and changed out the sway bar bushing with no change. I went to a mechanic and had him crawl under and listen. He thinks that the front and rear u joints (there are 3) are bad on the rear drive shaft. Does anyone have detailed instruction on changing them. The rear one has 4 bolts and the shaft drops down. If I pull the G shaped clips out will the u joint just fall out. Any help would be great. I have searched but all I can find is info on the front axle u joints.
Thanks
Budman
Thanks
Budman
#2
They have to pressed in and out, with either a press or a hammer. You have to remove the clips and support the yoke and have an open area for the cap to fall into. Then drive the ujoing down. Sometimes you have drive both sides out, sometimes the cap you were driving can be wiggled out of the yoke.
If you u-joints are toast, you can wiggle the shaft by hand.
If you u-joints are toast, you can wiggle the shaft by hand.
#3
#4
Budman,
If you google "replacing rear driveshaft u-joints" you get a quite a few good hits. Here's one with pics. Replacing car or truck u-joints is the same procedure and is relatively easy if your mechanically inclined. Go with Spicer non-greasable (no grease fitting) joints. the non greasable are much stronger but if you routinely submerge them you have to replace more often.
U-Joint Replace
If you google "replacing rear driveshaft u-joints" you get a quite a few good hits. Here's one with pics. Replacing car or truck u-joints is the same procedure and is relatively easy if your mechanically inclined. Go with Spicer non-greasable (no grease fitting) joints. the non greasable are much stronger but if you routinely submerge them you have to replace more often.
U-Joint Replace
#5
#6
Budman, If you have another ride drop the shaft and take it to a driveshaft repair place and have them put in new spicer u-joints. I have had mine done at driveshaft shops here in Houston for the price of the u-joint plus $10.00, hell the socket i would ruin pounding them out would cost me more than that
#7
Thanks for all the replies. I may try it myself if I can't find some to do it for cheap. Another question. At the front of the shaft where it attaches to the transfere case there are 4 bolts that look like they take a special socket. Will a regular socket work or should I buy a special one?
Budman
Budman
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I pulled the drive shaft today. The U joints are not the problem. I didn't replace them because they all work nice and smooth. I pulled the caps of the ones that don't have to be hammered out they have plenty of grease and look fine. The ones that are pressed in I rocked back and forth and they work smooth also. ReAX---- How do I check the trans mounts. I'll check that before I dig into the rear end. Thanks for all the help.
Budman
Budman
#12
#13
Check the trans mount and pinion bearings the same way. You shouldn't be able to wiggle them hand. Grab hold of the trans tail housing and push it up and down, and left and right. It might move just a hair, but it should move the truck just as much. The pinion shaft should not move at all, push it left/right/up/down, and try spinning. It shouldn't spin either if the preload is tight.
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1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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01-16-2014 07:02 PM