Thanks John for posting this I am going to try adjusting to these specs next time I deal with my rear hubs. Personally I have problems getting mine to have no end play and be able to spin hubs. I think I might need new bearings and races next time I dig into them.

 

The part number for the E brake actuator is: F81Z*2A637*AA

 

excellent article from 2008.

One question i had was do the wheel bearing come out with everything and should they be replaced along with the new park brake shoes, seals etc.

is there a way to check bearing to see if they are bad. looking at close to 172K miles on truck and believe are original stuff.

have no leaks on rears thus far so should i worry or just wait till it leaks. ?? trying to get truck ready for life on the road in 4 yrs. would rather do this in a couple of years from now, that do it in the middle of B F E

 

You can jack the truck up and wiggle the wheel to see if there is any play up and down and side to side. if there is, you may just need to tighten the nut some. the only way to check the bearings is to look at them. if you have to take them out you will need new seals. clean the bearings up very good. if there is no pitting or scoring on the bearings or race's they are still good.

 

Hey guys, how much gear oil is lost during replacement of the wheel/hub seals? Can I get away with one 1 quart if 75-140 synthetic to refill diff?

 

Yes, assuming your differential is already full. Actually, all you should loose is what's in the hub when you pull it apart. Make sure you have oil on the bearings when re-assembling, and squirt some oil in the hub while it's sitting on the spindle and before you slide the outer bearing on.

 

jack up the side you are changing, the oil will flow towards the center and you wont lose much at all.. a quart is plenty

 

ok thanks. Much appreciated.

I bought this remaned axle maybe 3-4 years ago (POS is already leaking) so Im changing seals, bearings (cheap as hell) and shoes because they are contaminated with oil. I digress...I don't know what type of gear oil was used by the manufacturer or if any friction modifier was used. Will adding some additional modifier cause the limited slip to act more quickly? Its very slow to react. Or is the modifier just for noise reduction?

 

The modifier actually allows the clutches to slip when going around turns. Adding more would make the clutches more slippery. If the limited slip is acting like it's not engaging, there may be too much in it already. The noise is caused by excessive binding in the gears by the clutches not wanting to slip. It also is trying to force both wheels to turn at the same speed which is hard on the components when turning. If you are in an empty parking lot and can do figure 8's and you don't hear or feel anything, you have plenty of modifier in the differential.

 

Excellent explanation. Thx so much.

 

I'd pull the cover and drain..start fresh, Lexus...use 75/140 that has the modifier already in it..mobil does
I used the gasket on both rides with no issues..also done the etc too b4

 

Only if money was no object. That entire axle is only a few years old so oil must be fine. I bought 1 quart of 75w-140 synthetic Valvoline ($10 from Amazon) in case I need to add a little.