I am replacing the stock Holley 4180 carb on my 1986 F-250 with an Edelbrock 1406. I set the 1406 on the factory EGR spacer as I intend to keep a functioning EGR. I have installed the Edelbrock transmission kickdown linkage adapter, as well as, mounted a "Holley-Style" ball fitting that snaps into the factory throttle cable connector. The problem I am having is two-fold.
First, and foremost, there is intake heater control valve that allows hot gasses to circulate under the carb mounted on the factory intake manifold. This control valve is mounted right where the throttle linkage from the carb would be. In fact, the 1406 will not set all the way down on the EGR spacer because this valve is in the way.
Secondly, the kickdown lever lines up perfectly with the carb linkage. The "ball" for the throttle cable to connect to, however, can only be installed on the far outside edge of the combined assembly (the carb throttle linkage + the kickdown linkage). This puts the throttle cable out of line by about 1" to 1-1/2". Without the kickdown adapter installed, however, the ball-fitting can be installed closer to the carb, and would line up perfectly with the factory throttle cable.
My questions:
1. Can the intake heat control valve be removed from the intake manifold so it doesn't interfere with the carb linkage?
2. Would this cause other problems? I'm not sure, but I believe a thermal vacuum switch causes the valve to shut the passages in the intake manifold after it gets to temp. If the heat control valve is removed, it will remain open, right?
3. Is there some sort of throttle linkage adapter bracket that will shift the throttle cable about 1" or 1-1/2" to the right so everything lines up?
4. How advisable would it be to NOT connect the transmission kickdown lever to the carb? Would this cause big problems with a C6?
Sorry for such a long post, but any input or advice would certainly be appreciated.

 

Would a 1" carb spacer get you clear of the heat valve? If so, ditch the kickdown rod and remove the adapter then switch to a Lokar cable kickdown set-up.

 

Maybe a photo would help?


You can see the manifold heater valve that is in the way (with the orange vac hose attached). The kickdown lever is installed, but you can also see how far over the throttle cable must go to attach to the ball on the carb.

 

Baron, Thanks for the advice. I looked into the cable idea, but it comes down to a money thing, and I'm already over budget....
How critical is a kickdown mechanism for a C6 anyway? Maybe I'll just leave it off, if it won't cause serious problems. It would certianly make things easier.

 

It will shift sooner @ WOT and will not kick down over 30mph.
I would get a 1/2" carb heat shield spacer with longer carb studs and raise the carb a little and leave the linkage hooked up.