I have a 2001 psd with a 6in BDS lift and 35s. What can I do to cure these problems? It only has like 2in of blocks in the rear and I think the springs were redone. It looks like it has a crapload of springs in the front. I'm trying to kind of save some money too.
Plan on pulling a sled also. its a 6spd by the way. Just recently got a South Bend clutch the 400 hp one. Which sadly is slipping a little when doing donuts.
I would drain the diff fluid and add friction modifier. The ford owner's maunual calls for the modifier to be added. Just my $.02
If the truck is just a sled pulling toy, why not just use spools? These things they call 4 wheel drives for the most part are really just 2 wheel, 1 front and 1 rear.
__________________ Mark
Above car featured in Sept. '83 Super
Stock & Drag Illustrated. No longer mine.
1999.5 F-250 2x4 Extended Cab Long Bed
209,351+miles
6637 Mod
4 inch SS Straight Pipe
DP Oh Boy! Need I say more?
PhD In Common Sense & Logicality
University of Hard Knocks
If your going to pull sled, detroit locker, and traction bars. Done.
Back in my wasted a lot of money 4 x 4 days I had Detroit Lockers front and rear at a huge expense. But like I said earlier, spools are a whole lot tougher, but completely impratical for anykind of street use at all. Even in the rear only they will cut your tire life in half, not to mention annoy the hell out of your neighbors. Something I never worried about........LOL. I think a spool in the front may break things for you. Never have tried it.
__________________ Mark
Above car featured in Sept. '83 Super
Stock & Drag Illustrated. No longer mine.
1999.5 F-250 2x4 Extended Cab Long Bed
209,351+miles
6637 Mod
4 inch SS Straight Pipe
DP Oh Boy! Need I say more?
PhD In Common Sense & Logicality
University of Hard Knocks
Back in my wasted a lot of money 4 x 4 days I had Detroit Lockers front and rear at a huge expense. But like I said earlier, spools are a whole lot tougher, but completely impratical for anykind of street use at all. Even in the rear only they will cut your tire life in half, not to mention annoy the hell out of your neighbors. Something I never worried about........LOL. I think a spool in the front may break things for you. Never have tried it.
Yea, if it would only pull, and thats all. Id vote spools. If you need to drive it on the streets, id detroit the rear. I cant remember the popular front, but its a torsion style. Nice thing about them, is you can still turn, but they are all gear, so shouldnt wear out. Either way, the wheelhop is most likely caused by the combination of lift/blocks. Traction bars are in order. Locker/spool/whatever you pick will eliminate the one wheel peel.
__________________ Mike AKA "Speedy"
02 F250, ECSB, 4x4, PSD, Auto, 190+k on the ticker
Detroit locker and go fast parts.
I have a 2001 psd with a 6in BDS lift and 35s. What can I do to cure these problems? It only has like 2in of blocks in the rear and I think the springs were redone. It looks like it has a crapload of springs in the front. I'm trying to kind of save some money too.
Plan on pulling a sled also. its a 6spd by the way. Just recently got a South Bend clutch the 400 hp one. Which sadly is slipping a little when doing donuts.
doing donuts with a lifted PSD and big tires isnt going to help you save money... parts are not cheap..and a 8000 lb PSD has a lot of TQ..makes snapping parts a piece a cake...
__________________
Early 99 7.3 F350 auto,AFE stage2 5" strait pipe. DP tuner ,140 IDM,Modified 17* HPOP..DI RR Ryan Casserly's SS stage 2's moded 100% over nozzles
What kind of money am i looking at. Who makes the most streetable traction bars? and cheapest? By the way I drive it every day. Bio diesel rules incase you didnt know.
What kind of money am i looking at. Who makes the most streetable traction bars? and cheapest? By the way I drive it every day. Bio diesel rules incase you didnt know.
Boy, this is an answer from an old man that has been out of this chit for a long time. But Lakewood rings a bell with me for ladder bars. I would not even fool with any junk if you're going to be serious about this. How do you even know if you have a limited slip differential. You do not have limited slip up front for sure because to the best of my knowledge no manufacturer even offers that. A off the show room floor 4 x 4 is really a ripoff, because all you're really getting is 2 wheel drive, one in the front and one in the rear. You have to special order the right stuff. Even the limited slip is not all that great, Detroit Locker yes. I even tried welding the spider gears once and gave up on that because I kept breaking stuff.
__________________ Mark
Above car featured in Sept. '83 Super
Stock & Drag Illustrated. No longer mine.
1999.5 F-250 2x4 Extended Cab Long Bed
209,351+miles
6637 Mod
4 inch SS Straight Pipe
DP Oh Boy! Need I say more?
PhD In Common Sense & Logicality
University of Hard Knocks
IIRC the detroit for out rear is in the 600-700 range, then you have to get someone to install it, unless youve the tools, time, and know how. One set of traction bars that cought my attention was at Calvert Racing, home of CalTracs, "The Bar With The Bite" Out of any off the shelf stuff, that looks pretty good. I will have to build my own though.
__________________ Mike AKA "Speedy"
02 F250, ECSB, 4x4, PSD, Auto, 190+k on the ticker
Detroit locker and go fast parts.
IIRC the detroit for out rear is in the 600-700 range, then you have to get someone to install it, unless youve the tools, time, and know how. One set of traction bars that cought my attention was at Calvert Racing, home of CalTracs, "The Bar With The Bite" Out of any off the shelf stuff, that looks pretty good. I will have to build my own though.
I've been massaging my memory banks and there is (or was) another quality company. Atlantic Coast Engineering. ACE.
__________________ Mark
Above car featured in Sept. '83 Super
Stock & Drag Illustrated. No longer mine.
1999.5 F-250 2x4 Extended Cab Long Bed
209,351+miles
6637 Mod
4 inch SS Straight Pipe
DP Oh Boy! Need I say more?
PhD In Common Sense & Logicality
University of Hard Knocks
i'd check the rules where ever your going to pull at because a lot of them don't allow traction bars/ladder bars on anything except a pro-stock truck which your along way from
most of the reason ur truck hops is because it being a stick mine is stock in the back and hops
if it was an auto, my buddy pulled with a 6" lifted f350 and it never hopped
__________________
Nick early 99 F350 XLT 6sp 4x4 7.3L mods 5" stacks, 4" dp, autometer guages, dp tuner 60t, 80t, 80 econ, 120r 140 smoke and K&N cold air intake with afe pro guard filter, southbend 550hp clutch, turbonetics ball bearing turbo, updated to late model turbo set up
95 ranger s/c auto 4X4 4.0L finely put new tires on it only mod
Id beg to differ on the subject of stick vs auto in the wheel hop section. Most of the problems in our trucks is axle wrap, which is from the springs. The other portion is from the tires losing traction and gaining traction rapidly, which causes wheel hop. Neither one is directly linked to stick or auto IMO. And either one could cause the truck to hop or shake. Could be wrong on the stick vs auto thing but most real pullers use a stick also. The axle wrap problem is amplified with any amount of blocks. Plain and simple. Sometimes you just get lucky on your pull, and dont get any hop. Then maybe next time you hit a different spot on your line and it causes the truck to hop. But thats my oppinion
__________________ Mike AKA "Speedy"
02 F250, ECSB, 4x4, PSD, Auto, 190+k on the ticker
Detroit locker and go fast parts.
Once your leafs get enough torque to go S shaped enough and your tires reach their maximum gripping point, they stick and release causing hop. As soon as you start hopping, let off the fuel or you will break something. Traction bars help solve this problem.
As far as the one wheel peel, try draining your diff fluid, replacing it, and using just enough friction modifier to get rid of chatter in turns. Also, you can increase the tendency for both wheels to spin sometimes by slightly setting your e-brake...
One word of warning...if you drive the truck on slippery surfaces at all, stay away from a locker up front, or be gentle. If you are one a slight slope and one wheel up front loses traction your front end will slide down the slope.
