I bought it about 2 weeks ago.An 88 F150 300 5 spd 4x4. It had a terrible coolant leak, and ran terrible, but it does have 5 year old gas. It had been getting better and better until it finally died (I assume it was on the front tank and I put gas in the rear tank). I had a friend turn the key on so I could see which fuel pump ran (I assumed there was one in each tank). Nope, an inline one on the frame. (Easier to change than an in-tank pump). The starter went out when it ran out of fuel and it's getting rebuilt this week (easiest starter EVER to change)
I'm going to give it a complete tuneup and see how it runs then. I'm also putting a new radiator in. I see one is listed for w/o air and w/ air. mine doesn't have air and has a 1 row radiator. Is the a/c one a 2 row? If so, I'm getting it instead.
Also, my temp gage doesn't work, which sensor is it- the one by the thermostat? Otherwise it could be the gage.
Also my fuel gage aways stays pegged at full. Any ideas? All of the other gages work fine (besides temp) And the tank switcher doesn't work. I think I can just test for power at the selector when I flip the switch.
This thing is also missing the little rubber plug on the bottom of the clutch housing. Anyone know where I can get one?
It needs ALL new universal joints in the front axle. Can I just buy a complete axle shaft?
Also every few days when you push the clutch all the way it isn't fully disengaged, but if I pump it 20 or so times it comes back to where it should be. (getting air in system?)
Also the tranny whines a lot when sitting or while shifting (synchro's?). I can't check the fluid, as I need a longer ratchet to open the fill plug. I'm worried the tranny may be getting weak since this truck used to have a 5th wheel hitch.
I like this truck, and it's in fair shape, but I could buy one like it that is even better and everything works and then drive that and slowly fix this one. Then at least I'd have a truck. The other one is only 2wd however. But it's newer and is a xlt lariat. This one is a custom.
The '88 F-150 has a fuel pump in each tank as well as the one you found in the frame. I would check the fluid level in your clutch master cylinder, it has a round black cap that screws off and there is a rubber cup under the cap that must be removed before checking or adding fluid. It uses dot 3 brake fluid. It is located just inward of the brake master cylinder.
Your 5 speed has a "normal" (vs. really low) first gear, correct?
Check that fluid. The primary killer of these boxes is loss of fluid due to some rubber plugs failing on top of the box where you can't get to them and where you don't notice the leak so much.
You have the EFI motor, best power stock of any motor.
You may have to bleed or correct a leak in your clutch. Concentric slave cylinder, a pull the trans to fix job.
Check your firewall where the clutch master mounts. They were weak. There was a factory fix through a tsb so if you see a reinforcement, you're good. Otherwise, since that part is no longer available, make a reinforcement.
as far as the fuel guage being pegged. most likely the sender in the tank. this is the piece with the float attached to it. it's a variable resistor that changes resistance depending on how high or low the float is sitting. if you have a wiring diagram the easiest way to test is to unplug the wire at the tank connector, from the selector switch that goes to the sender and ground that wire straight to ground. if it goes to empty then the sender asssembly is bad. about $60 from ford dealer.
The temp gauge on the dash should be controlled by a sending unit on the lower intake manifold. On my 302 it is in the valley next to the distributer. Not sure were it is on the six. One way to check the sending unit is to turn the key to the on position than ground the wire to the sending unit. If this pegs the temp gauge than your wiring is fine just replace the sending unit.
The fuel guage trouble can be caused by the variable resistor path getting worn out in the tank. I fixed mine when I changed my gas tank by just bending the pointer on the resistor to follow a new path.
88n4, I don't hear either in-tank pump running, just the inline one. Clutch cylinder is full.
85e, How low is really low? I can barely make the speedo move running 3000 RPM in 1st. It feels lower than most 5spds. If I have to pull the tranny, I will sell this thing. I can't afford to put that much time into something right now.
klx, I suppose it could be the tank sender, I don't think I'm gonna go to the hassle to replace it for a while.
operator, That's how I was going to test the gage, but I need to figure out which sensor it is.
foobar, If I were to ever pull a tank off for any reason I will replace the sending unit.
So now I notice that the "normal" 1st in Mazda might not show very low compared to a ZF. Compared to a T19 5.11 first, you get 13 mph at approx 3000, a T18 with a 6.32 first gives you 10 1/3 mph at 3000. (older 4 speeds)
Anyway, crawl under it an compare and check the oil level while you're there.
Your fuel pump issues may be caused by the tank selector switch. If this goes bad, or is disconnected, the pumps won't run. Fuel gauge pegged, mine did this after I replaced the tank. the plug was not connected properly.
Temp sending unit has one wire terminal. ECT sending unit has two wire terminal. Ground the single wire terminal to check the temp gauge.
I got my rebuilt starter on, new radiator, plus, wire, and changed engine oil. Ran ok, but it hesitated from 2800-3000. Then it died and I had to walk a mile and 1/2 home. I think it may have ran out of gas. Also while going down the road the gage would go from 1/4 (actual amount in tank) to pegged. I wonder off it was switching tanks? Or is it just the sending unit acting up? Because it always read full on the back tank.
Also while going down the road the gage would go from 1/4 (actual amount in tank) to pegged. I wonder off it was switching tanks? Or is it just the sending unit acting up? Because it always read full on the back tank.
Good luck with that, the fuel gages in my 87 have been repaired many times under the extended warranty and that "life time warranty on paid repairs" and do not work right if at all to this day. Gave up on em, for a while there the dealer had the truck more then me because of it.
Now I have another issue. It may just be out of gas, but it will start up and run fine then after about 15 seconds of idling or if you rev it a little it will die. It will not start after this. Wait a while and it usually will. Neither of the in-tank pumps are running, just the inline one. But it's always ran fine like this, which makes me think it doesn't have in-tank pumps. I'm going to try a new fuel filter. You think if it was out of gas it would eventually not run at all.
Also should I replace the tank selector switch?
Uhhhhh buy more than one fuel filter and get the removal set....note the metal scissor type doesn't work worth a crap to remove these filters and will only frustrate you more...you need to grab the plastic multipack set of removal tools should say something like ac/fuel removal tools.Another thing, and I can't believe no one else had said this....when you replace the in tank pump (which it DOES have btw) it is MUCH easier to pull the bed...don't even try and get the tank straps loose....just pull the bed...fairly easy job in itself......you fuel gauge being pegged is most likely corroded connections or liek someone already said...a bad sender.However, if you're going into the tank to fix the pump you might as well replace the sender and clean the whole tank out.......the inline pump is only a booster to get the fual up to the pressure it needs to get the injectors to open.......YES replace the tank selector switch.....you can find em at any boneyard.the running then die scenario could be one of a few things...first off...like you said the FF which I've already been over...could also be a faulty IAC or TPS...you can pull both and clean them thoroughly with carb/choke cleaner...you can also check voltage on them but I don't remember what the readings are supposed to be.As ALZ said about the tank selector switch...I'd replace that first to see what happens...if that doesn't take care of the majority of your fuel problems then yank the bed and do as I said other than that good luck.
I'm going to replace the fuel filter and go from there. Here's what its doing today- It will start right up and run fine, on fast idle, then it goes to slow idle and runs fine. After a minute or 2 it dies and will not start. Let it sit for 15 minutes and it starts instantly runs for a while then dies. I'm 90% sure its a fuel issue- if you give it very much throttle it stumbles then speeds up. I can't afford to spend any more money in this piece of s*** so it'll sit for a while. I kept telling myself, just fix this one more thing and I can drive it. Then more problems just keep showing up.
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Buying F150 with 300 six II
