I obtain this information from another thread, so my question is do I just get any diesel oil, or is one in particular that you guys reccomend.

Thanks for any information.



"First, don't use the newest "SM" rated oil. The EPA has mandated that most of the ZDDP or zinc has been taken out of "SM" rated oil so that the catalytic converter has a longer life. The zinc is what kept the lifters from chewing up a new cam. On roller lifters, zinc is not needed. Either use diesel engine oil (which most brands still have the zinc) or a break-in oil additive that has zinc in it.
Now as far as the cam, the 2000 rpm figure is a good one for the first 20-30 minutes of it's life. Vary it up and down a little so that the rpm is not a constant figure. After that you need to accelerate gently and deaccelerate for awhile. The acceleration puts the gentle pressure on the rings so that they seat to the cylinder walls. The deacceleration causes a high vacuum so that oil gets sucked up between the cylinder rings so that they get the important lubrication needed during break-in. Listen for any abnormal noises or leaks. Also watch the water temp and oil pressure during this time. Change oil after about 500 miles, 2000 miles and then go the scheduled interval after that. Use a good quality filter. (that means avoiding the brand with the cardboard end caps!!) That's about all I can think of. Perhaps others will chip in and add to this or disagree with me."

 

My machine shop told me today to use Rotella as it was about the only one that still has zinc, which this article confirms, so Rotella will go in my rebuild. Besides it's rather inexpensive.

 

So, I should use Rotella, does it come in like 10 w40 or something like that.

Thanks ramarado

 

Rotella has changed it's formula and now the symbol on the back of the container reads ES energy saving if you see this on the container it has reduced if not removed ZDDP. The stuff on the shelves in my local stores is no longer the CI-4 PLUS rating in the base of the circle logo. I looked at the Castrol diesel and it was still rated as CI-4 PLUS last I purchased oil. Valvoline VR has been recommended here many times.

The break in procedure looks to be pretty laid out and I recall that thread. Just remember the after breaking stuff as well, no lugging, hard braking in gear, and for the first 50 or so miles some mild accl/declrtn in gear no brakes will help the rings take.

Sure there will be plenty more added on the thread here.

 

I assume you're saying the Valvoline VR still has the zinc? The machinist also showed me some stuff made by Lucas that has zinc for break in. It was in about a pint bottle.

 

yes it's my understanding that it does and will for some time to came as it's a racing engineered oil.
Additive, EXTREME PRESSURE OIL ADDITIVE :: Hughes Engines Inc. and there are many to choose from Google it. There is often mention of a GM additive on here but I could swear I saw that the stuff was discontinued and someone bought up the last of it and is selling it at a nice price.. could be wrong on that though..probably am

 

IMHO: Bull, Bull, Bull.

The guy at the machine shop has and is offering his opinion just like everyone else in this thread. There is no tested and verified report that one oil is better for breakin than any other. The manufacturer is the one with his butt in the sling and if it was critical to have a special oil, it probably would be included like cam lube.


standing down


John

 

True for breakin but there are reports comparing oils to each other and content inside. They have been out for years. It is true some conventional oils have reduced amounts of zinc ZDDP due to the EPA,tree huggers and emissions.

Bobby GM's EOS (engine oil supplement) is back on the shelves at the dealers. I'm trying to confirm how it's been changed if at all. For a short time it was supposedly pulled and repacked under the AC Delco label. I never was able to find it tho under the AC name. But it's now back under the GM label. Bought some last week. I always add 1/2 bottle to the VR1 for oil changes.

 

Ok, I went to the auto parts, and they do have Valvoline VR 1 with a SAE 50 and SAE 60, also Rotella T 15W40, so, which one do I use,

Thanks for your help.

 

I would not use a 50-60W oil for break in for sure! I am going to use a 10/30 probably Rotella and use the Lucas break in additive as suggested by machinist.

 

For break in any 10W30 or 5W30 and most any brand will will do. After that any good 10W30 is all that is required for street use.

For extra duty heavy towing or racing you might want to look at a premium oil, other wise you are peeing away your money.


John

 

I agree with jowilker, I used 10W30 for my last rebuild years ago never had any problems. but definately go with Mobil 1 Syn. oil as soon as you get to the required miles

 

I got my first car in 1967, and between my wife and I, we have about 1.5 million miles logged on several vehicles. I use to use Havoline 10W40 then 10W30 til my newer cars require 5W30. Used to change oil every 2000 miles now it's 5000.

All of those miles were put on regular dino oil without an oil related failure. I'm sorry but I have heard nothing that makes me feel the need to buy designer yuppy oil.

I have had a couple of rebuilds along the way.

But I am still patiently waiting.


John

 

Working close to the industry I find that the need for ZDDP is going way down. But the aftermarket cam companies require the use of ZDDP to prevent cam failure. The soft imported cam cores from china are to blame. The ZDDP just covers up the issue. The FE block is a low friction over square design it is very easy on oil based on UOA's I have done over the years. Running a stock cam and 5w30 SM pennzoil the Iron levels were only 8 PPM in a 3,000 mile OCI. Thats about the same as a new engine built today.

 

Lots of misinformation on this thread.

First off - with the possible exception of Crane (for whom I have no data), the cam cores are still made right here in Michigan at CWC Textron. They are flame hardened on rollers, and then shipped to one of the two cam machine centers in the US. Those would be either Camshaft Machine in Jackson or Engine Power Components in Grand Haven - both in Michigan. These facilities "center" the cores, hob the distributor gears, grind and polish the bearing journals, drill and tap end features as required (dowel holes, keyways), and rough grind the profiles. As customers desire they will either semi-finish or completely finish the cam lobes, phosphate them, and package/ship. Neither of these companies will sell to the public.

It does not matter how many miles you put on old cars with old oil. That was then. The formulations have changed dramatically. For roller cam applications there is no need for high pressure additives like ZDDP in current engines, the product has emission and environmental impacts, and thus serves no purpose and needed to be removed. Except for us older engine guys. The market, like nature abhors a vacuum - and a few niche companies have seen the opportunity. I use the Brad Penn break-in oil with good results so far - - it's essentially a re-release of the pre-emission Kendall. Others are available. After break in I run normal Penn or Valvoline Racing oil in flat tappet stuff.

I guess I'd rather "waste" an extra $5 per change on a designer oil than prove myself wrong by killing a cam. I've already done that dance. That gamble costs more than you're ever gonna save. Goes back to my old "risk versus reward" math....